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TheRaver

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  1. Hey,

     

    I bought some 19x9 rims from a fellow user in here last year.

     

    They are originally for a VW Toureg so it's also different boltsizes (5x130), as well as different size in ET. so they also require spacers/adapters (From ET60 down to ET45).

     

    Disaster struck when I was test fitting them on my own after they arrived and realized that they don't fit at all on my front end,
    We're talking sticking out 4-5mm from the side and touching the stock shock absorbers.

     

    He owned a vRS while mine is the 1.8tsi.

    Is there really a difference in their suspension?

     

    Thanks for any answers

  2. 42 minutes ago, langers2k said:

    ET is the distance between the centre line of the wheel and the face that sits on the hub. As the number increases, the wheel will move effectively move inwards.

    I did know this.

     

    42 minutes ago, langers2k said:

    The largest stock alloy (Neptune) is 7.5Jx18 ET51 with 225/40 r18 tyres. Changing for a 8.0jx18 ET35 will move the rim 10mm away from the suspension strut and also make it stick out 22mm further. This is because the new alloy is ~12mm wider and you're effectively spacing the alloy out by 16mm (ET51 minus ET35).

    The ET being dependent on the width size of the wheel, I did not know.

    Willtheyfitscreenshot1.thumb.png.7ba2ef72ebdd0d0ab5116d0e30a1fe5a.png

    Willtheyfitscreenshot2.thumb.png.46a4c77cee7087960b31f62e5a323069.png

    Which is why I didn't get willtheyfit at first because it just showed me numbers instead of actually telling me why the ET number differentiate depending the inch width.

    Willtheyfitscreenshot3.thumb.png.463ff9264d6a9e0da6356d912a0b604b.png

    Willtheyfitscreenshot4.thumb.png.950ffc816cf03772947e01c4998149c5.png

    Have found a possible solution though so this might not be total disaster afterall, since I found a similar pair with an ET48 compared to the ET35 I currently drive with.

  3. Hey Briskoda,

     

    I currently have 18*8 ET35 wheels on my 1Z5. In hindsight it makes sense where they would stick out too far on the 2 frontwheels, but I don't understand why they fit perfectly on the 2 back.

     

    I have tried to search the interwebs for info on how to take into account what ET size I should go for depending on the size of the wheel.

    I tried a danish datasite which just states 

    hjuldatascreenshot.png.ec39276a5d3c3bd5b4423eeb0a84852d.png

    Diameter Fra = Min. diameter. Which I don't get since the stock wheels on mine is 15 inch.

    Krydsmål = PCD / Bolt pattern

    Inpresning fra = Offset from

    Indpresning til = Offset to

    Centerhul = Center Bore

    Daek bredde = Tire width

    Deak Profil = Aspect Ratio

    Max Diameter = Well, Max Diameter, which I guess would be maxium size of wheels, which can be fitted, which I know is wrong, since I've seen a 1Z5 rocking 20 inch wheels.

     

    The next 2 screenshots are from Wheelsize dot com, which shows different measurements, which confuses me even more.

    wheelsizescreenshot1.png.19b2893c0d2e9c3fe24f9d799325aaa7.png

     

    wheelsizescreenshot2.png.9876804b9ef984f3f8980704d590ea24.png

     

    So if somebody could make a dummy like me understand the appearant science behind this, I would appreciate it very much, thank you.

     

    Cheers

     

  4.  

    9 hours ago, DGW said:

    Read the thread below about the piston ring problem and the manufacturer's remedy - which is to replace the pistons and conrods at a cost of around £2500 if I recall correctly.

     

     

    My advice would be to return the car to the dealer and ask for a refund.

    After reading through that thread, I really don't want to give the car up just yet.

    The dealer seems very genuine in helping out so I will just keep monitoring the consumption and report back if the problem hasn't gone better,

    because as of now, having driven it an additional 135km after getting my car back, the pin already shows the entire "MAX" again, unless they didn't fully fill it with oil, which they did the first time, they refilled it.

     

    Returning the car for a refund will inevitably by my last resort if this cannot be fixed within the 6 month waranty.

    But again, I am not really "in-the-know" of how the law works in Denmark.

     

     

    6 hours ago, TheClient said:

     

    Whether the dealer knows it or not, the problem is a quite established on the EA888 1.8 and 2.0TSis. Subject of one or more TPIs.  Unfortunately, again whether they know it or not, there is very little they can do to remedy it without a new engine or new pistons/rings and possibly rods. 

     

    I'm afraid, anything they are doing trying to soften the rings is just delaying the inevitable and is to delay things or push it outside the 6 months warranty. But , I really doubt it will have much effect once the engine starts to lose that much oil anyway. About 1L per 1000km in your case?  Damage will be quite well established.

     

    If you have any consumer rights to allow returning the vehicle, I would exercise Now..

     

    You should review some of the detailed posts in here on the blocked scraper ring. Also, don't forget the vulnerability on the main timing chain tensioner if that hasn't been attended to!

     

    Sorry to be so down beat but the reality is it could be a slog uphill to get this properly resolved and even then what shortcuts might they take?

     

     

    As I responded to the above quote, I will fight for it to be fixed within the 6 month waranty (entering the 2nd month of ownership).

     

    About the maintiming belt, I did try to ask about it before, but he downplayed it by telling me, they wouldn't be able to tell by "opening the top and look down into the timing belt to determine tear..

     

    But for now, I'll take one problem at the time, even if there isn't more than just 1 problem. I want this fixed. I've sadly grown to like this car, so I really don't want to go through the hassle of finding a replacement car, especially since finding something similar is hard in Denmark, and anything better really bumps up the price, again, in Denmark.

  5. Greetings. Have owned my 1Z5 OC2 for about 1 month now and have fully fallen in love with it.

    I am planning on modding it and thought that I should give briskoda a chance, as the international place to seek help and inspiration.

     

    Hopefully I'll get to share my project and learn a lot from you guys. 

     

    Cheers,

    FJ

     

    Have a picture of the, as of now, untouched beige Octavia

    5acaaf091b9be_Briskodaprofilpicture.thumb.png.f741e22c86f591a51bb5fc9bfcd3360e.png

  6. Nice vrs. Those 20" wheels look crazy on the FL OC2.

     

    Got myself an OC2 FL estate and  have been browsing for inspiration. Love the mods you have done so far.

    12 hours ago, Dubbsley said:

    Yesterday I posted the corrosion of the rear badge

    17D7DF91-5B6E-44A0-93A9-A356DEF20943.thumb.jpeg.0728beb605d96168fb0eaf3122805eca.jpeg

     

    New bits to fit:

    Genuine badges (Lessons learnt from non genuine)

    4E2E240A-C95D-48C3-AEF5-76502D73AD0E.thumb.jpeg.f0c50a188e6f23f6765af13e8be71176.jpeg

     

    Eyebrow trims.

    9A48EACC-E9F4-4789-83F0-F4E327892B52.thumb.jpeg.57a9d729e23f9e4026bc96c9f9e0619e.jpeg

    1. Saw that you could get a painted base with monte carlo-black ring and arrow in multiple Skoda colors Octavia MK3 Original Skoda Emblem INT-Version

        Albeit it being for the OC3, I was told that they would also fit the mk2.

    29597903_1715052478552111_8199201840788483030_n.jpg.a10696b50f34f87e31f762402d09f7a1.jpg29541198_1715052475218778_591288093760473623_n.jpg.374fe442493d7767e43e42e70ff32298.jpg

    Taken from a FB group from his 2017 OC3 vRS.

     

    2. Are those eyebrows legal where you live? Of course the laws are properbly different from Denmark, where I live, but as far as I understand, here in DK, if any of the lights are being covered up it becomes illegal.

        Got the evil versions of those eyebrows, still needing them colored to match the color of my car, but they are covering up by positionlights. Is that gonna be problem on your vRS?

     

    • Like 1
  7. 2009 Octavia 1Z5 1.8 TSI owner 126xxxkm

     

    Had my car for 3 weeks, when the "Engine Oil Level" lit up. Went to check oil level to see it being in the middle of "MIN" (Forgot to take a picture of the pin)

     

    Second hand dealer told me as a rule of thumb that Skoda's generally accepts consumption to about 0.5l pr 1000km driven, which to me, still sounded a bit much.

    They did however refill the oil, no extra charge, while I had them check a faulty left-indicator "half lighting" when right indicator was on. (Yay for 6 months waranty)

     

    After a maxed refill, I decided to keep an eye on the oil consumption and used a planned trip to a friend to take pictures of the oil level.

     

    After having driven an additional 192km the oil level was in the middle of "MAX", which I again found conserning.

    the second hand dealer, again, still not really thinking that it was a problem still wouldn't budge.

    29251161_10216003146581022_1141472367_o.thumb.jpg.ef24a0621efcda7a61f917c702dfd7cd.jpg

    This was after having driven 325km

    IMG_20180325_110729.thumb.jpg.21577b08d595276901617ebf827e4370.jpg
    And this was arriving home, after having driven 452km.

     

    Called up the dealer again to say that this time I would just show up with my car and demand them looking into it.

    Sure enough, after refilling it again, having one of his mechanics driving my car for 200km again, he could conclude that it magically consumed way too much oil.

    They suspected it to be the pistonrings not having a sufficient seal. Didn't mention if they replaced it with new rings, but did say they tried softening the rings up through the weekend. (again, yay for second hand warranty)

     

    I got my car this friday and has done minimal driving in it, but still need to check the oil level again just to confirm it really being fixed. Will update again.

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