wilsonian

Hello, My wives Fabia 08 plate has a really worn steering wheel. I've had a look around on eBay and breakers and it seems to be a common thing with that style of wheel. What I'd like to know is if I can change the wheel to a different style are the airbag leads the same? I'm not fused about aux controls on the wheel - just one that doesn't feel like a worn flip flop lol

So far so good. I've only used it going to work so not tried out it's "off road" capabilities. We wanted a 4X4 system like the Scout or Suberb for when we get a caravan (in the next year or two) and after pricing up the All track has loads of standard features that are options on the suberb and maybe ones that people may not have bothered to get on the suberb (such as Hill Hold etc etc). Mine has keyless start, which is a little daughting as I'm still reaching for the key when finishing a journey lol

Hello, I've recently sold one of my 2 Fabia's and changed to a Passat Alltrack. Has anyone got a recommendation of a forum / support site for these cars? Thanks,

Fitting a catch deffo does help removing some of the gunk that goes back into the system but I think maybe removing the EGR would help - not an easy task if you have a BLT engine as the engine management light needs mapping out.

Just sold 681 after owning it from new.

have you checked the cables position in the boot? Pull back the lining on the drivers side and see if the cable is correctly located. Mine has popped off the odd time and needs re-seating.

I tried the leak fix and TBH did bugger all. Best get saving a new rack - FYI don't buy the cheapest on euro car parts. First one was out of line which caused the sensor to pop up errors and stick it in limp mode - really fun on a roundabout when you steering decides to go on holiday! Second rack lasted a few days then dumped the whole lot of steering fluid over the road... seals failed again - both racks were refurbished units from Q drive. Best get a Remy Version. Still recon but better Qual checks.

This might point you in the right direction - list what year your car is. I had loads of issues with my passenger door and getting the right unit. Even though they look very similar different years may have different models and if the unit was replaced with a cheap eBay knock off it might be a "dump" unit which doesn't work with the central locking system. My issue was I'd bought a cheapy off eBay and it turned out to be a waste of £25. Ended up having to source a second hand one from a polo. IIRC the fabia had 2 different units installed. I found this off one of my older posts: mine is 3B1839015AM - that was for a passenger door - I think what denotes this is the 15 at the end.

I would double check your fluid levels - it's a pain to do but I had an issue with my rack 2 years ago. The seals failed and dumped the fluid into the arm gaiters. we only noticed the leak when the gaiters split and dropped the fluid. If the seals have gone then your looking at a new rack (or a reburbished one).

Just an update. Thought I'd done this back in January. Replacing the sensor repaired the fault - even though it was testing ok on the resistance checks. Be prepared for a nasty job. We ended up removing the oil cooler and giver us better access and you'll need a 12 sided socket - I think 9mm.

Just thought I'd give an update on this issue. Yesterday the windows went down and stopped. No response from the unit etc etc. Took the switch off and cleaned the contacts with no luck, removes the gaiter over the wires and bingo - brown cable on its last legs and the red/white completely gone. To repair it I removed the wiring loom from the door and my father (retired spark) soldered in a new length for both. Strangely the audio wiring was fine (same 1mm cable). They must not give it enough give. Took around an hour to re fit so all in all about 3 hours Inc cleaning the switch up. If anyone does intend to do this we used heat shrink over the repair work and had to replace all the door clips as they had broken while removing the panel so make sure you have plenty in stock.

I want to get an idea on how my car is running and was wondering which channels are best to select.

Ahaha, must be a common issue as my missis has this issue with her car too. Personally I was going to find a breakers yard and see if I can get a replacement trim part.

spent a few days cleaning the intake, ports and egr when I was replacing the turbo. Had the bits off so might as well. Also a good time to think about catch cans as it'll only come back.

He's getting confused, it was the G28 crank sensor The sensor was Febi model.

I was hoping it wasn't going to be a wiring fault - hate chasing them down... lol

I had something similar a few years back - turned out I'd lost a clip for the heat shield around the exhaust.

so you think it's just the switches?

The missus car has started an issue with the windows. The passenger window works fine from it's own button, however when you try and use the drivers side it either doesn't respond or acts very stop-start and take a few goes to get going. Any ideas? I've seen a few posts suggesting to reset the controllers by removing the fuses then holding the buttons in a certain way - unfortunately no joy.

Hello, My wife's 1.4 TDi has a recurring issue. The small pipe that runs between the tandem pump and top fuel pipe has been leaking. I've already changed it using a 8mm reinforced fuel pipe but tonight shes limped home only day after putting in half a tank. Turns out the replacement pipe (around 2 months old) has failed and leaked diesel everywhere. I've seen people complain of this fault before but there never seems to be a solution. Does anyone know if I need a certain type of pipe that would resolve the issue. Thanks, Paul

thanks for the quick reply. I'm tearing my hair out as to why this fault is popping up!

Hello, I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I need to test the wires that feed the G28 sensor coming from the EU at the bulkhead. I've disconnected the Sensor and currently get 480ish Ohms which the haynes says is correct but there is no mention on where the wires go to the ECU. Any help would be greatly appreciated as the car can't rev above 3500rpm ATM.

Well I know that much, just wondering if it has a common exposed area.

When the ignition is on we only seem to be getting around 2.5v on all 3 pins. Does anyone know of a common break area?

Ok, so just had the connector off and measured the resistance to the sensor which came up at 465 ohms - the manual states between 450-550 ohms is acceptable. The workshop manual does seem to have much else listed for diagnostics of this fault. Does anyone have an idea what it could be?