mydadscar

AA called, no diagnostic findings… they reckon a possible airlock in the fuel system. The car started (of course!) when the AA chap tried so we then drove to my mechanics garage. The car was due for a full service this week anyway. Dirty fuel filter and rear discs done but he did trace a flattened battery but no other fault with it. So something may be draining it away. The engine did crank over strongly previously but wouldn’t run. Previously to not starting I had noticed a light on the dash would sometimes glow which showed as a bulb not working but they all work. Ongoing!

Thanks Radiogaga and pikpilot……I’ve got the AA calling today so I will get them to check the battery again…..I’m concerned the usual pre start up sound when the key is initially turned (of the pre fuel injection?) didn’t occur the last time I tried to start, so maybe the battery doesn’t have enough juice .. Thanks

I think the battery is fine. I replaced it in 2020 as it had died, for a slightly higher ‘power rated’ one. The dash lights up immediately and the engine easily turns over but won’t continue to run. Thanks

My 'trusty' Skoda Octavia has a problem....when I open the drivers door there are three muted chimes like sounds. not fast but over 5-8 seconds. The key is inserted, all lights on the dash come up and diminish except for the ones lit until engine starts. The engine has occasionally started and the car drive (locally) for a week but has now refused to start at all. The engine does turn over but I've stopped trying now. Its these 3 'chimes' that I can't find out about, nothing in the manual to lead a way on this. I've searched on the forum and will ask the AA/mechanic next week to check the fuel pump situ, possible timing belt and the "Canbus module" which was mentioned on the forum? (I'll have to look up what that is. (I've also read the oil filler cap or gauge stick should be firmly fitted to stop 'extra' air getting into the system?).

As an update to this ‘alarm’ problem…..I’ve noticed when locking the car that the door alarm light flashes quickly then settles into a steady pulse or…flashes quickly and then stays on for maybe 30+ seconds then starts its steady pulse. Either of these will work okay and not sound the alarm off but not always.

……and yes, I have turned the interior alarm button in case an errant spider or other insect is playing games with me! I can’t say it has eradicated the problem though.

……and I would think we are possibly talking earlier versus later car models as my 2011 Octavia takes the 2032

This may help to avoid confusion, taken off Google.....the batteries appear to be the same 3v 'power', its the sizing that is different . " Can you use a 2032 battery in place of a 2025? Intro: 2032 and 2025 are literally the dimensions of the battery. A 2032 is 20mm in diameter, 3.2mm thick, and a 2025 is slightly thinner, at 2.5mm thick. They usually both have the same voltage (3V), and assuming they fit in the case, they are interchangeable.

Thank you…..

How is a key resynchronised? im still getting intermittent problems with this damned alarm!

The battery was 10 years old, time to go!

Its a fairly new battery, replacing one that drained away while I was in lockdown elsewhere....thanks about resynchronising, thats next.

Thanks nta16….I had seen the videos which re explained the interior alarm switch ‘off’ position. yep, Duracells from Wilko not a corner shop. wouldn’t it be great if car manuals where clearly written and self explanatory!

Two new Duracell batteries for both keys. The door alarm red flashing light worked very well initially but the alarm still went off after I'd gone inside the house. It has now taken half a dozen attempts to lock the car for the alarm not to trigger. In the manual I found (on page 45).... 'When the alarm is triggered' and a reference to 'Angle of the vehicle'..see page 45 ? I think it refers to the angle of a towed vehicle in the 'NOTE' section but it isn't really that clear to understand! Also on page 44 is a paragraph 'Syncronisation of the remote' and to do this....press any button on the remote control....and then 'pressing of the button means that the door will unlock with the key within 1 minute'. I'm still flummoxed! And how is the key re- coded after installing a new battery...?

Ah, re-synchronised..hmmm........many years ago I had to buy a relacement Nissan Primera key (Ebay £12 and it worked) and found online advice how to 'match it' (is that resyncing?) to my car which was a big plus as Nissan would have charged around £70 to do it. It entailed inserting the key, changing gear, pressing a peddle etc in a direct order off the downloaded instructions, a five minute job that saved me a handful of coinage. I shall peruse the Octavia handbook for re-syncing....cheers

Aargh yes! So safer than sorry to change the belt around the 100.000 mileage........Experience many years ago with a Ford belt that broke and me being un-mechanical, I tried starting the engine.....goodbye top of engine parts, hello AA! All this aoutside London's Kings Cross Station crossing the traffic lights at 5pm on a saturday.

Aha, just started having problems with my 2011 Octavia 1.6tdi and its alarm but it has happened very occasionally in the past. I lock it and walk away, a few minutes later I'm told by keener ears in the house, the alarm has sounded (briefly) but the lights are still flashing. (The car battery is 12 months old and slightly more powerful than the original). So I've discovered the red alarm light flashing when locking on the drivers door but it then should take on a steady slower rate of flashing showing it is running okay. What is happening is that after initial locking and fast flashing, the red light stays on which appears to be when there is a fault. On other posts here I read about quick double pressing the locking tab on the key fob which seemed to work for me sometimes. Last night I wondered if it could be a drained key fob battery and am reading in this post to maybe change the batteries....must be done to eliminate almost everything before reaching out to Skoda!

And I presume the belt does quite a few extra miles when the engine is ticking over but not on the move This may well be the case Marky

Yes I did see the old belt and it looked to be in good condition but with its age, looks could have been deceiving !

Yes we like to try and stay with the ‘experts’ for our cars but perhaps you can find a garage that specialises in the VW group.

Yes the first belt change since new, I’ve owned the car from 11000 miles. My mechanic agreed that the change was now a good move but showed me the old belt on collection and it looked to be in very good condition at 100.000 miles…. It is reassuring to know the new one is in. I have to say I get a tad fed up trying to evaluate what dealerships tell us, what is needed and how much their prices are.

Due to motoring through the Welsh mountains on holiday, I took fright andrecently had my 2011 Octavia 1.6tdi belt replaced at 100.000 miles....My mechanic used a full 'Gates' kit belt and waterpump and charged all in £400.....Skoda price is curentl £600.