Steveyg777

thanks. I’ve spoke to the mechanic again today and mentioned about the oil. He said he’d have a look. He said it may be a gasket or seal and he'd sort it out, he also said that the oil thing happens more because of the new E5 and E 10 fuel.

@sepulchrave so best to get the mechanic to do then?

Is that something i can clean or replace myself and do you know a rough cost? Also does the mechanic sound correct in thinking is that box?

@thomasaspin @toot @EnterName @Jocko @sepulchrave @Cropzy Any ideas guys?

I explained to the mechanic about there seeming to be so many causes of the problem so he had the car back to diagnose further. He concluded that it was, i can't remember the exact name, possibly the ecm box - a box with some websites in and i think an epc that communicates with the computer. I've got to take it in this coming Friday to get done. He claimed this box will cost about £300! So I'm more ****ed off because of the costs understandably. And it makes me question whether he is correct, in the hope of Cheaper fix of course. Maybe it is only a sensor that had failed within the box and he is just replacing the whole box to make sure the problem is fixed? I don't know. Additionally, i cleaned the throttle body yesterday. You should have seen it! Underneath the tb is a pool of oil! This has dirtied the tb. There is also oil that has got onto the engine area. Possibly through a pipe which looks like some sort of overflow outlet (see photos). For a few years i have smelt what smells like fuel or exhaust fumes coming, through the interior fans, quite quickly after idling in a static position or reversing. I thought it was part of the exhaust that needed tightening up and I'm sure it was made better when i asked a previous mechanic to tighten things up before. Lately I've not smelt it so much but now I'm wondering if it is this pool of oil? Could this oil be too do with the pcv valve (i think that's what is called)? What do people think about it all after reading this info and looking at the photos? Sorry Tb top Dirty tb bottom Underneath tb with oil pool Done kind of outlet, possibly how the oil has come out onto the engine? Oil all over the engine

Interesting. That doesn't suggest replacing the pedal. Am i right in assuming a new pedal would also come with a new sensor, throttle body and ecm fitted to it or is it literally just a chunk of metal?!

@toot no he didn't check the spark plugs.they were only changed no more than 2 years ago and i don't do tons of miles. I looked at spark cable 3 and it has an extra plastic house around it, not sure if that can be classed as armour? On my journey today i stifled the accelerator about side to side to try and get the epc to come on (if it is the pedal) but it didn't. It seems like it is only after maybe 5 minutes that it triggers. Would this suggest over heating somewhere as the trigger? In thinking about idling it for about 5 minutes tomorrow to see if it still triggers with low demand placed upon the engine for that length of time to see if it takes longer to trigger. Has anyone looked at the data i posted? Can they interpret it as being the pedal?

as no one replied and i needed to give the mechanic an answer i've told him to order and fit it. i just hope that it works!

The mechanic has sourced another pedal (pretty sure its a skoda pedal): £140 plus vat plus 30 plus vat fitting Need couple days to order it what does anyone think? should i say yes or try to discover if it is another problem causing this? Not sure what to do now lol

Ok. I'll let the mechanic know. Thanks

Yes, i am experiencing jerky motion at times. Hopefully i can replace the pedal and all will be fine. I'll keep you posted.

Hi again toot. I've not put the wrong fuel in lately. The spark plugs were changed last year or the year before and they are the high mileage ones that can cope with 45000 Miles (or something like that). He didn't literally take the spark plug leads out and inspect them but i think he checked to see if they're were loose. He has mostly used his experience and his snap-on computer to diagnose and all the information ive given him seems to convince him more that it is the pedal - more so the sensors attached to the pedal.

Hi toot. I'll reply later extensively as i can't at the moment. I just want to add a little more info now though. I travelled in the car not long ago, i kept under 2000rpm and the turbo confined to work. I got into 5th gear at about 33mph at one point so i stayed in low revs and the car jolted a couple of times and then the epc light came on again. Would that indicate that it happens when the turbo is having to work harder?

A few days ago i was travelling home and my epc light came on and my turbo shut off. My car is the Monte Carlo edition, 1.2 TSI, 105 BHP early 2012 model, it's fine about 56000 Miles and i don't thrape it. I got home and left the car overnight. I tried the car again, the next day and the EPC light wasn’t on, but the engine light was. I took the car out and the turbo was back again soon. Went back into limp mode with the EPC light coming back on. I have took it to my garage and the mechanic thinks the arrows are pointing towards the problem being caused by the throttle pedal been slightly loose/wobbly so he is going to order another one, he thinks it might cost about £80. I’m not sure what you guys think, but I ordered an ODB to device over the weekend, it’s the Carista model it seems to be very extensive in diagnosis and I thought I could post the results here in case it would help someone to see what the problem is, and if they think it’s the same problem that the mechanic thinks. Here are the results: ECU info obtained with Carista 750099 for iOS: VIN: TMBFN25J6C3106495 CAN network gateway Part #: 6N0909901 Component: GW-K-CAN TP20 Software version: 0531 ASAM/ODX identifier: [none] Coding: 032300 (hex) Fault codes: 02078 Manufacturer-specific code Engine Part #: 03F906070HK Component: SIMOS10.22A Software version: 2693 ASAM/ODX identifier: EV_ECM12TFS02103F906070HK Coding: 00110056200400080000 (hex) Fault codes: 06521 Manufacturer-specific code 13627 Manufacturer-specific code ABS [ECU not present] Power steering [ECU not present] Airbags Part #: 6R0959655K Component: VW10AirbagT2C Software version: 0020 ASAM/ODX identifier: EV_AirbaVW10BPAVW250 Coding: 003243 (hex) [No fault codes] Instrument cluster Part #: 5J0920941E Component: KOMBI Software version: 0305 ASAM/ODX identifier: EV_Kombi_UDS_VDD_RM09 Coding: 410A00 (hex) [No fault codes] Radio [ECU not present] Media player [ECU not present] Immobilizer Part #: 5K0953234 Component: IMMO Software version: 0305 ASAM/ODX identifier: EV_Immo_UDS_VDD_RM09 Coding: 000000 (hex) [No fault codes] Heater & air conditioning Part #: 5J0820045D Component: Man AC Software version: 0202 ASAM/ODX identifier: [none] Coding: [none] Fault codes: 00819 Manufacturer-specific code Central electronics Part #: 6R7937087K Component: PQ25 BCM Software version: 0531 ASAM/ODX identifier: [none] Coding: 25980B3808C92400922008002C2B08C00040400F60000000020000000000 (hex) [No fault codes] Obtained with Carista 750099 for iOS. Download app: https://itunes.apple.com/app/id954363569 Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/caristaapp Basic OBD2: P0222 (Pending) (Confirmed) - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit Low CAN network gateway: 02078 - Media Player Position 3 (R120) Engine: 06521 13627 Heater & air conditioning: 00819 - High Pressure Sensor (G65) P0222 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit Low Freeze frame : Calculated load: 0 % Coolant temperature: 72 °C Intake manifold pressure: 99 kPa Engine rpm: 0 RPM Vehicle speed: 0 km/h Ignition timing advance for cylinder 1: 0.0 ° Intake air temperature: 57 °C Absolute throttle position: 16 % Time since engine start: 0 sec. Fuel rail pressure: 2430 kPa Commanded evaporative purge: 0 % Ambient air pressure: 99 kPa Battery voltage as seen by the engine ECU: 11.68 V Absolute engine load: 0 % Commanded equivalence ratio (Fuel system): 1 Relative throttle position: 42 % Outside temperature: 20 °C Absolute throttle position B: 100 % Absolute throttle position 😧 15 % Absolute throttle position E: 16 % Commanded throttle actuator position: 6 % 00819 - High Pressure Sensor (G65) Freeze frame : Priority: 2 Malfunction frequency counter: 44 Unlearning counter: 21 Odometer reading: 88933 km 13627 - Freeze frame : Priority: 2 Malfunction frequency counter: 1 Unlearning counter: 255 Odometer reading: 90503 km Engine rpm: 0.00 RPM Normed load value: 0.0 % Vehicle speed: 0.0 km/h Coolant temperature: 67 °C Intake air temperature: 53 °C Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 11.882 V 06521 - Freeze frame : Priority: 2 Malfunction frequency counter: 2 Unlearning counter: 255 Odometer reading: 90503 km Engine rpm: 0.00 RPM Normed load value: 0.0 % Vehicle speed: 0.0 km/h Coolant temperature: 72 °C Intake air temperature: 57 °C Ambient air pressure: 990 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 11.679 V 02078 - Media Player Position 3 (R120) Freeze frame : Priority: 2 Malfunction frequency counter: 3 Unlearning counter: 171 Odometer reading: 77034 km

Finally got the sods off! Battered the wiper arm in the process but at least it's done

I've got the one off after using wd40 and a lot of elbow grease but the one in the centre of the window won't budge. I've tried putting a pound coin over the top but in just deforming the coin

Hi there.I'm following petes advice to go through the grommet near the windscreen wipers. As usual I've hit a problem. I can't get the freaking wiper arms off! Are these things welded on? 😂 I haven't got fancy removal devices at hand either. Just a couple of spanners.

I've just realised that the fuse that i took the power from was in the wrong fuse socket. The wiper is working again now lol. I think i had figured out incorrectly which fuse was for the ignition. The supplied sticker is confusing because it is for the lhd version. Looking at this web page https://fusecheck.com/skoda/skoda-fabia-ii-2007-2014-fuse-diagram Should i take it from fuse 30 instead? Ps- my switch sends to have some loose connections but those two switches are still on permanently. Possibly the switch is faulty now. I'll have to examine the wires at a later date

It seems i only have one reverse light. But yes it is working. I also have some foot well lights attached to some switches (actually a set of switches for boats but they have worked. Since connecting then again to a fuse on the interior fuse box - mot guys disconnected then possibly - two of the switches are permanently on even when flicked to off position). I'll send some images.

I created this in the hope that a sort of "wiring 101" guide could be on hand to everyone including noobs like myself. So please ask basic worrying questions here and then i can consolidate the guidance at the top after a while. I've got since questions to start off with: If i have multiple components to setup in the car can i connect them all to the same power line or should they be connected to different power wires that take power from different power sources (fuse box, directly from battery, etc)? Can i take power from a fuse on the fuse box or should it be directly from the battery? When taking power from a source should i also connect a fuse to the line first? And should it be the same fuse as the line output or the power draw from the component? (Hard wiring usb components that have a step down transformer from 12v to 5v for example) What are relays and should i be using them or how do i know if my scenario requires one or not? Are particular wire connecting devices recommended (list some links to good ones please) or should i just splice and twist new wires to one another then cover in electrical tape? Is there a rough limit on how many components i add to my car, or, how do i know when i need to connect a second battery to the power system to balance the load? There may be more questions, or concerns that arise but answering these works really help me figure things out for now.

Thanks Pete

Does anyone know if it is the same wires for the mk2 fabia also? i connected a rear backup camera to these colours and it worked for a while but now I can't get it to work , nor my rear wiper. I wouldn't be surprised if I've done something wrong, can anyone advise on this please?

That was unnecessary. This is supposed to be a forum where people help one another, not a place to mock people. I am a noob, and yes i saw various things on the bulk head but had no idea where they would lead to on the inside and how to access them from the inside. And i don't want to start drilling holes all over the place in the hope that one is going to work. If i had a car geek mate available i wouldn't have needed to ask for advice. It's great that you think this is all easy stuff but i don't know the first thing about what I'm doing and don't want to get it wrong. Go easy.

Thanks that's really helpful. The second location you mention is on the drivers side and then you say about the bonnet release grommet. So i will have to get the cable from one side of the car over to the other side right? (And do it blind as to knowing where the cable is traveling exactly). Is this a lot easier in practice than it sounds in my mind? (I'm a noob and expecting to mess it up). Doing it this way will also mean i don't have to take the dashboard off etc?

I've just wasted an afternoon trying to install my Kenwood SW11 subwoofer. I tried to figure out how to get a power line from the engine bay through to my subwoofer but I can't find a grommet or know where to drill a hole into the interior safely. The engine bay is crammed with stuff so there aren't many areas open to put a hole from. I tried removing the glove box before seeing that it is part of the dashboard. removing the whole dashboard seems ridiculous to just get a hole through. The sub will be installed via RCA cables to my pioneer sph-250dab stereo and comes with two cables for power. one is blue, for the included remotes power. the other is yellow and for the sub’s power (with a fuse on it). there is also a black grounding cable. Can anyone tell me how to get through this freakin firewall easily and safely, please? (preferably with images of where to make the hole or find an existing hole, etc). Could I not just connect the sub power cable to my interior fuse box (ignition fuse)? And the ground to a screw near the fuse box? I think the remote power could also connect with the sub power?