Steveyg777

I seem to have a lack of knowledge of regimes. What is meant by fixed, variable regimes? And what is meant by your first paragraph in terms of regimes?

@Ootohere are you saying that i can use vw502 or vw504? And what is the purpose of the long life oil? Is it for people who have to do a lot more miles? My travel to work is 7.5 miles so it is warm in the cold months before i get there. But i don't allow my engine to warm up before driving. Would i be better to get 0w40 instead of 5w40? I'm Still trying to understand oil consistencies

@sepulchrave thanks. I couldn't afford a service this year when it usually gets done in March. But I've got some money now so i wanted to try and do it myself to try and save money too. Especially if it's not that hard to do i don't see in throwing money at someone else to do for me. It's it something i could do myself easily enough? So actually the filters may need replacing now anyway. Not sure what the life span of the different filters is to be honest? Should they all be replaced every 12 months? I only do about 6000 miles a year and I'm only on 60000 miles total.

I had the spark plugs changed a couple of years ago with long lasting ones, i think they can do 40,000 miles or something like that. I'm not aware of it being remapped.

@Warrior193 can i ask why you don't recommend using a washable filter please? Also, i haven't got my manual on me at the moment and I'm out. Can i find the engine code written on the car somewhere?

I have a 2012 Tsi 1.2 (105bhp) Monte Carlo. The oil light came on and I confirmed it was low. I believe it needs 5w40 oil and fully synthetic is recommended - correct me if I'm wrong. I had some 10w40 oil from about 10 years ago, wilko brand . I don't think it's fully synthetic. I topped it up and i think it's helped. My questions are 1) was this ok to do? 2) i wanted to drain all of it out as soon as possible and put the most suitable oil in i can. I was looking at castrol edge or an alternative that gives a performance boost. What is recommended? 3) I'm also wanting to do my own service - change oil filter, possibly fuel filter (if needed and easy enough to do?), cabin filter and air filter (preferably wanting to get a compatible washable performance filter so it lasts longer). If anyone can recommend me products that are defibrillator compatible is really really appreciate it as I've not got any experience in correct product selection. 4) any other good advice anyone has, I'm all ears and teachable 👍

thanks. I’ve spoke to the mechanic again today and mentioned about the oil. He said he’d have a look. He said it may be a gasket or seal and he'd sort it out, he also said that the oil thing happens more because of the new E5 and E 10 fuel.

@sepulchrave so best to get the mechanic to do then?

Is that something i can clean or replace myself and do you know a rough cost? Also does the mechanic sound correct in thinking is that box?

@thomasaspin @toot @EnterName @Jocko @sepulchrave @Cropzy Any ideas guys?

I explained to the mechanic about there seeming to be so many causes of the problem so he had the car back to diagnose further. He concluded that it was, i can't remember the exact name, possibly the ecm box - a box with some websites in and i think an epc that communicates with the computer. I've got to take it in this coming Friday to get done. He claimed this box will cost about £300! So I'm more ****ed off because of the costs understandably. And it makes me question whether he is correct, in the hope of Cheaper fix of course. Maybe it is only a sensor that had failed within the box and he is just replacing the whole box to make sure the problem is fixed? I don't know. Additionally, i cleaned the throttle body yesterday. You should have seen it! Underneath the tb is a pool of oil! This has dirtied the tb. There is also oil that has got onto the engine area. Possibly through a pipe which looks like some sort of overflow outlet (see photos). For a few years i have smelt what smells like fuel or exhaust fumes coming, through the interior fans, quite quickly after idling in a static position or reversing. I thought it was part of the exhaust that needed tightening up and I'm sure it was made better when i asked a previous mechanic to tighten things up before. Lately I've not smelt it so much but now I'm wondering if it is this pool of oil? Could this oil be too do with the pcv valve (i think that's what is called)? What do people think about it all after reading this info and looking at the photos? Sorry Tb top Dirty tb bottom Underneath tb with oil pool Done kind of outlet, possibly how the oil has come out onto the engine? Oil all over the engine

Interesting. That doesn't suggest replacing the pedal. Am i right in assuming a new pedal would also come with a new sensor, throttle body and ecm fitted to it or is it literally just a chunk of metal?!

@toot no he didn't check the spark plugs.they were only changed no more than 2 years ago and i don't do tons of miles. I looked at spark cable 3 and it has an extra plastic house around it, not sure if that can be classed as armour? On my journey today i stifled the accelerator about side to side to try and get the epc to come on (if it is the pedal) but it didn't. It seems like it is only after maybe 5 minutes that it triggers. Would this suggest over heating somewhere as the trigger? In thinking about idling it for about 5 minutes tomorrow to see if it still triggers with low demand placed upon the engine for that length of time to see if it takes longer to trigger. Has anyone looked at the data i posted? Can they interpret it as being the pedal?

as no one replied and i needed to give the mechanic an answer i've told him to order and fit it. i just hope that it works!

The mechanic has sourced another pedal (pretty sure its a skoda pedal): £140 plus vat plus 30 plus vat fitting Need couple days to order it what does anyone think? should i say yes or try to discover if it is another problem causing this? Not sure what to do now lol