Arcadash

I need to replace the badges, front and rear and front is easy, but I cannot work out how to tackle the removal of the cover over the badge fixing. Any ideas?

Given it a decent test now. For intermittent electrical probs, worth adding an earth strap from a sensible engine point and the chassis. Cleaning the standard strap points under the battery tray doesn't always work. The additional strap on mine does.

Aaaah! What is not obvious is the amount of road muck which is caked around the back end of the unit to be removed. It was like concrete on mine. Pushing in the screwdriver did not release the clips. Too caked up. So took a chance and with packing under the driver, levered it out. Pulled the drain hose out with the unit and washed it off. Repair using epoxy is difficult - holding 5 min epoxy in place for 5 mins is difficult so, out with the Hot Glue Gun. Epoxy on the break and a blob of hot glue in a couple of places held it all in place while the epoxy sets. The drain tube doesn't go back but as the area is mucky anyway, I just left it hanging. So now I know. If the flap disappears I will buy a new unit and try to avoid busting it by rushing.

Thanks for the comments. At least I am not trail blazing. I spend time mentoring on a technology forum with some software I have been using for years. It is good to know that "you are not alone" with problems, but with software it is a LOT easier - IMHO of course.

Update for anyone watching this. Full diagnostics today. Not too many faults except the one which indicated that the power to the steering was intermittant. Upon investigation, the cause seems to be the earth strap from the gearbox to the chassis. Rust and corrosion. It has been cleaned and as an extra measure, a new and separate earth strap fom the gearbox to the chassis has been added. So now I have it on trial as there may be other issues but that is a voyage of discovery. Not paid for any work yet, and NOT a new meggabuck alternator! Will update when a decent test over the weekend has been done.

Thanks for responding. The connections to the battery and the earth post have all be cleaned. The battery was fitted by RAC and the car is not a Stop/Start one. I will get the amp hour of it confirmed though just in case. There is a one fault code which the garage found and reset, but I didn't catch it. The car is going in tomorrow for a full diagnostic. I suspect it is a connection somewhere which is dirty/damp/make and break sort of thing. May be as simple as a fuse refit or ECU unplug and clean connections. Will post the results. PS Clicked open the car just now and all is working as normal. It could be the tool fairy from my garage messing me about again.

Hi. This has happened 3 times now. Unlock car. Insert ignition key. Turn to On position. Nothing. No lights or dash board. Turn Off ignition. Turn On ignition and everything works, BUT the settings have all reveretd to Zero. Milage, Range, Clock - the lot. Just as if the battery had been disconnected. History; New battery 200 miles ago. Refitted and posts + Ground peg cleaned. New Drivers door loom 2 weeks ago. Steering sometimes feels "notchy" after reversing monoevers with sensors working. Presents like an electrical fault but not sure where to look to pinpoint it. Any ideas?

Finally got it fixed. A replacement door loom was the answer. The old one was broken in many places so I got a new one. I will be repairing the old one as a backup with earphone wire which is a LOT more bendy. Looks like the original was old Post Office Telephone wire!

Thanks, appreciate the input. I am good friends with the owner of the garage I use, so I will see what type of gizmo he uses. Oddly, the code would not reset while the drivers door was open so I suspect a bug in the software. So, if I disconnect the battery, wait for say 5 mins and reconnect, will that reset the ECU? Or cause me more grief!

Yep, bad choice of words. Thanks for the quick reply, I will get it checked out. But, Is it possible to reset the warning using a hand held tester?

I started the engine with the drivers door open. The Airbag fault light and warning came on. Everything else works fine. Garage put the tester on and the readout was "Side Airbag Intermittant" fault. Not sure if it was reset , but it displayed and went out as normal for the next 50 or so times the engine was started using the car normally. Then, talking to a neighbour, I had the door open, and inadvertantly started the engine. Bang, Airbag light came on again. I believe that the fault trigger is based upon the sequence of events - like the open door and starting the engine. So, is it possible to reset the light remotely? I am aware of the consequences if there really is an airbag failure, but if it onl;y comes on after a sequence of events and after a garage reset, works as intended - the light comes on and stays on after starting the engine for a couple of seconds before going out. No error message on the display so I presume the initial start up test is ok.

Thanks Ken, I will do that. We have a very good Auto store in Louth, so I will try there first. I know Ebay will have them but I try to support small shops.

Thanks for the pics. On some scooters the clips are fragile and all sorts of different configurations. That successfully answers my soppy question.

Ace. many thanks for responding. I was hoping it would be easy. I'll probably make up a tool to do the job and post a picture here if it works.

Sorry, newbie here. The Bonnet release is sticking and I want to remove the trim around it so I can get at the mech to clean and service it. No problem with doing mechanical stuff, but the small round top hat type of trim retainer has me stumped. Would a simple "v" shaped tool under the head of the retainer prise it out?