Arcadash

Thanks guys. All good Intel. I will replace both thermostats as bits need to be taken off anyway, and it will save revisiting the issue I hope. Someone on YouTube described my problem and it was the DSG one as the issue was still there after an engine thermo replacement. I will update when it's done. My old Norton Dominator 99 Cafe Racer is a lot easier to work on!

More info. Car is 1.9 TID DSG. 82,000 miles. Idle revs have always been 750 until now. When the engine is started from cold, it revs at 950-1000. After a short drive, restarting the engine sets it back to 750. Temperatures are from the Temp gauge - confirmed as working, and Oil temp from the screen readout. These have been checked with a plug in diagnostic panel. Really "gunning" the engine is Sport mode will get the the water temp up a bit higher than 40 degrees, but putting on the car heater fan makes it drop quickly. How difficult is it to fit a new thermostat?

2012 Superb. Suddenly getting 2 unusual events, possibly linked. 1) the water temp doesn't reach the mid point on the dial like it used to. It will go up to around 80 degrees, and then back off. Never reaches 90 like it did. Its usual tem now is 70. I've rebooted the Aircon twice. Air heat now fluctuates with the water temp - as expected, but what's causing the engine to not reach operating temp? Thermostat? Turning up the warm air temp to the car causes a quick drop in dial, and Oil tem drops too. 2) For years i've sat at 750 rpm on idle. Now I get 950, but restarting the car sets it at 750. All ideas welcome!

My old Superb was stood front in towards a hedge for about 4 weeks. Pigeons took liking to it and scratched the bonnet and the paint is now nearly white. I assume due to acid in their urine. So, I plan to respray using either rattle cans or my spray gun. Paint is about £38 for half litre, and lacquer is around £15. Should I remove the bonnet- and is that easy? Or do the job with the bonnet in situ. My pref would be for removal so I can lay it out I my garage, but any advice we.come.

Ahhhh! Well it is sorted now. The bulb I had to replace was difficult to identify on your own, even backing up against a reflective surface. Unfortunately the manual diagram isn't the best, and no matter how hard I read it, it seemed to refer to a different bulb socket that the one I was looking at. Anyway, the single small bulb is probably the 2 voltage type. Halfords 955 W16W just over £2 a pop. As I mentioned earlier, the continuity was OK on all bulbs and that's what threw me. When I put a full 12v over this one, it shimmered and died, but kept continuity. So for this 2012 model L&K, the warning for the stop light means "don't bother testing it, just replace it." My old classic bikes have proper bulbs with twin filament (grey hairs showing). Thanks for all comments, it's great to know we ain't alone. Ted.

This is all good intel, Will try all ideas and report back. Thanks people!

I will try that. Thanks. I would probably have done that earlier, but I need a pedal pusher and don't have one until tomorrow. Will post any results and methods in case anyone is following this thread.

Odd one this. I got the message and checked that the stop light was not working. Opened the light cluster and checked every bulb for continuity. They all show working on a multimeter. Rechecked the stop light bulb socket and cleaned the bulb with contact cleaner. Refitted the unit and get same message and no stop light. Right one is fine. I didn't actually power up the bulb while out of the cluster as I presumed that as it passed the continuity check it should be OK. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance, Ted

I put towels down with a weight on top to squeeze out the water in the sound deadening foam. Never thought of cat litter, but I have a bag for garage floor oil spills. Good idea!

I had looked at that first off. The guys who fixed it showed me a video of the water going in the roof channel and trickling out inside. Anyway, with the hot(ish) weather and being able to leave all the doors open on my drive (off the road by a long way), we now have a dry interior. Not had the courage to wash it yet though!

Well, my efforts at locating the problem were hopeless. The drivers side roof drain tube had actually come off the connecter in the roof channel. I had to get professional help eventually and they found the problem after removing the headlining and pillar cover on the drivers side. "Never known this to happen! Blocked, yes. Detaching - never!" So now the tube is siliconed onto the connecting point in the roof and, better still, I now know how to get it all apart as the guys I trust my vehicles to as not possessive of their knowledge. Walked me through the process if it ever happens again.

Update on my water woes. I support technical forums, so I know that things you try might help others, so here's what I did. Unclipped the drivers side, outside windscreen strip - it came away easily. Cleared out the channel beside the screen and wiped it with meths. Cleaned around a hole which was at the bottom of the windscreen corner. This is where I suspect the water is getting in as when it was raining, I placed a towel on the floor and watched. I was tempted to go for Puraflex from Toolstation, but last time I tried to buy something, they wanted my blood group and NI number - well almost - so I went to Halfords and got some black windscreen sealant. Applied same to the windscreen edge and plugged the hole. Refitted the strip. Left to set overnight. Put towels on the carpets - which I can't find a way to remove as they are molded in somehow - and left it. Following day, no wet on the towels from above, even though we had rain. Drivers side rear floor still damp, but from underneath. So, there had to be water sitting in the floor pan and wicking into the towels. How to get at the floor pan? Well, there is an ECU cover under the drivers seat which you can pull off. The ECU is raised enough for you to get a thin tube between the edge and the bottom of the pan. This is where it gets fun Using a small syringe from and unused catheter (not mine, a friends) and a length of thin pipe, I was able to get a lot of water out. I have left well enough alone and may be disappointed, but at the moment, I am hopeful. What would be nice is an easily removable plug which you could get at without removing the under car trim, where you could drain any liquid off.

I saw your earlier post. Thanks for replying

Not noticed leaks like that TasMan. I have had an issue like you mention when the roof tilt didn't go right down once though. I've cut an additional rubber seal for the drivers side bonnet quarter beside the screen and cleared out another set of holes in the scuttle under the wipers. I'd prefer not to run a hose over it until it's all dry, so AC on high heat for a while!

Thanks PD. I have done so. Not been here for a while so forgot.

I have read through the posts regarding water in the drivers side (RHD) footwells - front leaking into back. I replied to one post but on examination, I probably need a bit of advice and guidance. Have looked in the panoramic roof channels and there is no sign of water at all. Not even damp. We had light rain last night and I had cleaned the scuttle water vents below the wipers as I thought that might be an issue. On opening the drivers door today, I can see a drip coming from the bottom right of the dash panel, just to the right of the little box which opens and you can put fuel cards and such. With the door fully open, the marking on the dashboard edge shows an Airbag sign in the plastic. Any ideas as to how the water is getting in at this point? What can I take off safely to look at around this area? All ideas gratefully received. Until I took the car for a long run on twisty roads yesterday, I had no water in the footwell, so I presume swinging it around has sloshed some from a hidden source. Aircon seems to be working, no smell of heater/radiator fluid.

I have the same problem which I found last night. We had a real downpour for hours the previous day. Nothing was obvious when I started driving, but after some speed work on twisty bends, the front and rear driver side footwell filled up, so I am presuming that there was/is a lot of captive water somewhere. The two small vents under the wipers were a bit clogged, so I wonder if the volume of water has flowed under the edges of the seals between the windscreen and the bonnet, at the corners as they don't look too efficient. Probably ok for straight down rain, but not a back flow if the scuttle fills up. Has anyone else had this problem and managed to sort it out? 2012 Superb Estate.

I need to replace the badges, front and rear and front is easy, but I cannot work out how to tackle the removal of the cover over the badge fixing. Any ideas?

Given it a decent test now. For intermittent electrical probs, worth adding an earth strap from a sensible engine point and the chassis. Cleaning the standard strap points under the battery tray doesn't always work. The additional strap on mine does.

Aaaah! What is not obvious is the amount of road muck which is caked around the back end of the unit to be removed. It was like concrete on mine. Pushing in the screwdriver did not release the clips. Too caked up. So took a chance and with packing under the driver, levered it out. Pulled the drain hose out with the unit and washed it off. Repair using epoxy is difficult - holding 5 min epoxy in place for 5 mins is difficult so, out with the Hot Glue Gun. Epoxy on the break and a blob of hot glue in a couple of places held it all in place while the epoxy sets. The drain tube doesn't go back but as the area is mucky anyway, I just left it hanging. So now I know. If the flap disappears I will buy a new unit and try to avoid busting it by rushing.

Thanks for the comments. At least I am not trail blazing. I spend time mentoring on a technology forum with some software I have been using for years. It is good to know that "you are not alone" with problems, but with software it is a LOT easier - IMHO of course.

Update for anyone watching this. Full diagnostics today. Not too many faults except the one which indicated that the power to the steering was intermittant. Upon investigation, the cause seems to be the earth strap from the gearbox to the chassis. Rust and corrosion. It has been cleaned and as an extra measure, a new and separate earth strap fom the gearbox to the chassis has been added. So now I have it on trial as there may be other issues but that is a voyage of discovery. Not paid for any work yet, and NOT a new meggabuck alternator! Will update when a decent test over the weekend has been done.

Thanks for responding. The connections to the battery and the earth post have all be cleaned. The battery was fitted by RAC and the car is not a Stop/Start one. I will get the amp hour of it confirmed though just in case. There is a one fault code which the garage found and reset, but I didn't catch it. The car is going in tomorrow for a full diagnostic. I suspect it is a connection somewhere which is dirty/damp/make and break sort of thing. May be as simple as a fuse refit or ECU unplug and clean connections. Will post the results. PS Clicked open the car just now and all is working as normal. It could be the tool fairy from my garage messing me about again.

Hi. This has happened 3 times now. Unlock car. Insert ignition key. Turn to On position. Nothing. No lights or dash board. Turn Off ignition. Turn On ignition and everything works, BUT the settings have all reveretd to Zero. Milage, Range, Clock - the lot. Just as if the battery had been disconnected. History; New battery 200 miles ago. Refitted and posts + Ground peg cleaned. New Drivers door loom 2 weeks ago. Steering sometimes feels "notchy" after reversing monoevers with sensors working. Presents like an electrical fault but not sure where to look to pinpoint it. Any ideas?

Finally got it fixed. A replacement door loom was the answer. The old one was broken in many places so I got a new one. I will be repairing the old one as a backup with earphone wire which is a LOT more bendy. Looks like the original was old Post Office Telephone wire!