Tony12

Hi all, just an update on the rough idling problem with my 2012 Octavia diesel. A mobile mechanic brought his scanner and it showed the functioning of each fuel injector as a percentage. One was badly outside its optimum functioning parameter, and a second one close behind. So this imbalance was the cause of the engines rough idling. The quick and least expensive fix is the worn injectors being hydraulically pushed out and replaced. If that fails, and it can, it’s the more expensive option of dismantling part of the engine to do the job. I’m not a mechanic as you might guess, so you’ll know what this involves. Having spent 1000’s on the suspension already, fixed the clutch, new cam belt and water pump, I think enough is enough for an 11 year old car on 117,000miles. This is not to mention sundry failed electrical switches I’ve replaced myself. This has left me quite disillusioned about the legendary Skoda reliability. My wife’s 2002 Honda served her for 21 years and passed every mot. No major repairs, just annual servicing. So it’s goodbye Skoda, hello low mileage Toyota hybrid for me ! Adios guys, and thanks for all your help over the past few years ! 👍

Thanks MicMac, I’ll check that out 👍.

There’s no shudder or run on, but I’ve had older cars where that’s happened. Something worrying I’ve noticed is a sort of scorched smell, and today I popped the bonnet and noticed vapor rising from the oil filler cap. The oil level is where it should be, as is the coolant. As stated before, no warning lights on the dash, and my VAG scanner is not throwing up any fault codes. Car is regularly serviced. I’ve got the number of a mobile VAG mechanic so I’m thinking of getting him to look at it before something very expensive happens.

Could the butterfly valve be responsible for lumpy idling ?

Thanks guys. I’m trying Wynns diesel engine system cleaner, poured a bottle in on a quarter tank then filled up to mix it in. I’ll see how that goes over the next couple of weeks, hopefully if it’s mucky jets it’ll clean them out.

Hi all I have a 2012 1.6 Octavia diesel estate, 116,000 miles on the clock. It is serviced as per the schedule every year. A recent problem has been uneven idling, and this only improves slightly at optimal engine temperature, when cold I have to keep the revs up to stop kangarooing. I have a VAG scanner and this is showing no problems. Took it to my local garage and their workshop scanner showed the same - only comment was a slight airflow issue. The garage suggested changing the air filter. I found this to be relatively clean as expected, but changed it anyway. Rough idle continues. I’m no mechanic, but could this be a fuel injector problem ? What could cause this without being picked up on a scan ? All best guesses welcome ! Thanks

Update on removing my window-pillar kissing wiper. Success !! I used this simple but excellent puller which did the job in 2 minutes. No hammer tapping, no plastic cover removal. The thing looks like it was made in a small backstreet workshop, but perfect for this job. Big thanks for all the tips and advice on here gents, I hope this helps someone else before getting a crowbar out !

That’s the very first one that shows up on the search, but I wondered if it would be up to the job. On the reviews for it someone said the plastic turn bit broke apart ? Maybe they had a Friday night job. ive ordered one I think will do the job, I’ll let everyone here know the outcome. Thanks for the help, much appreciated.

I’ve considered pulling up the trim but I’m not very adventurous and it might open up a whole can of worms for me if I snap something or can’t refit it. I tried tapping the spindle from the out set when I applied w d 40 to work it down, but didn’t make a bit of difference. I’m nervous about shocks being transmitted to my fractured and bullseyed windscreen by applying taps with a hammer, so I think my safest bet is to try the narrow puller. I’ll try gently tapping the spindle again as you suggested when I’m using it, and hopefully it will work.

There is no question, this puller won’t do the job because of its design and the very restricted area it needs to fit. I didn’t realise until I tried it. Its arms taper outward and therefore the ‘hands’ can not slip under the base of the arm in the space available.I fiddled with it for ages, different angles, no joy. I spotted a much simpler tool I wish I’d seen earlier. It’s design means the pulling arms can be slid inward to work in a very restricted area. I’m going to try that after applying penetrating fluid then report back here on how it’s gone. Thanks for the advice, I’m adding it to my arsenal of tips to get this job done !

This may be the only way, but my windscreen looks like it’s been used for army rifle training, so it could be risky. Thanks for the help guys. I think I’ve got some proper penetrating fluid buried in the shed, Ill apply some of that and try again next weekend. 👍

Thanks, but the way the wipers are recessed below the bonnet line on the Octavia this isn’t possible, with the bonnet up or down. I did apply wd40 last weekend, not made any difference, but noted it’s not the best stuff to release a fixing that hasn’t been touched since it left the factory in 2012. I think this will be a wedges and chisel job as suggested here.

Hi all I need to remove my windscreen wiper arm to rotate it a couple of notches on the splines because the blade has been striking the window pillar. Simple job I thought. I bought a pulling tool (see pics) but it’s arms do not fit into the tight space available within the plastic moulding. The wiper arm seems like it’s welded on 😬and won’t budge a millimetre despite use of wd40. I was thinking of gun powder next but would welcome any advice on a more practical solution. Thanks.

Thanks Langers, I’ll try that.

Hi all Can anyone advise me as the best supplier (price, quality parts) for a replacement master window switch for my 2012 Octavia estate please ? I don’t want to presume the same 4 button master control was unchanged for the whole of mk2 production - a lot of suppliers don’t seem to be certain on compatibility with various years of cars. Thanks

You mean I could have had that mug of tea after all ? ..and lunch ?

Hi Wayne I changed my battery, no issue, the Octavia remembered the code so I didn’t need it. How long it remembers without a battery connected I don’t know, so my only advice is don’t have a tea break while the battery is disconnected.

The clue was in the name wasn’t it 😆? A bottle of the finest red from my extensive cellars will be reserved for you 🍷!! Thanks for guiding me through this, It was driving me nuts !

Wino ? How much free beer can you drink for the rest of your life ? I put the 5amp fuse in F3, cleared the fault, started it, rescanned, NO MORE TERMINAL 30 REFERENCE :-) ! On looking in the fuse box my picture was misleading f3 and f4 were missing - it actually starts at f5 !

Ok, got round to checking the engine bay fuses. As you can see in the image there isn’t a fuse 3, it starts at fuse 4. Regardless, I started at F4 and checked every fuse, pulling out, inspecting for breaks, replacing firmly in correct place. All clean, corrosion free, and intact. Cleared previous terminal 30 reference fault (central electrics) started engine and did another scan. Green board except for my old friend “Terminal 30 reference”. Im thinking dirty connection somewhere then, any likely areas to look ? The connections I can see look as tight clean and shiny as when it left the factory, so no obvious places to investigate. The car is running great since I fitted the new battery. Should I just make my peace with ‘terminal 30 reference’, and live with it ?

I’ll inspect fuse 3 first as you advise. If you are right you will never have to pay for your beer again !

Thanks Wino, I’ll go carefully through the fuses tomorrow, one at a time.

Ran another scan today after clearing all previous fault codes beforehand. I fitted a new battery yesterday. Readout is looking much better, but the pesky “Terminal 30 reference” persists 🤬. So, possibly water/ corrosion under the fuse box then ? Or any other possibilities ? A picture of the mythical terminal 30 would be handy - showing where it is in relation to other nearby components. Stock pictures I’ve seen don’t really help. Thanks in advance for any advice !

Thanks for this, a line of investigation worth following if the fault codes return after I’ve cleared them. I’ve had the engine bay fuse box open on mine looks dry and very clean in there despite its 8 years. Having said that, when I took the old battery out there was enough accumulated dirt to grow some fine potatoes !

No I didn’t. I’m guessing that should be my next step, then do another scan ? The car has been intermittently cutting out since I bought it with the glow plug warning light coming on though, (scans showed nothing) so I’m guessing something more than the battery is amiss. But I’ll try clearing these codes and run it for a bit.