widdershins

I'd keep hold of any correspondence about that particular delivery defect with the coolant level. I believe Tesla have recently reduced the warranty on their battery packs, but having the "Well you damaged it early in it's life by not putting coolant in it" argument might prove useful if you start to lose range just outside the warranty period. Plus it makes you wonder how many others Tesla has shipped with insufficient coolant that people have either a) never noticed because it had slightly more than yours so not making the same amount of noise, or b) they've never had an EV before and thought that the noise was normal for an EV.

The advantage of the 22Kw three phase supply might show if you have one of the EV friendly energy tariffs which give ultra low cost per Kw/h from about 1am-5am. I think a few of the coming EV's can do 11KW also. So whilst you might not benefit from the full 22KW you might benefit from the extra few KW at the cheaper rate. Then of course there's the powerwall option and buying power cheap and selling back to the grid when it's dear, plus powering your home on the cheap stuff pulled in overnight. So to me if the differential cost to install 3 phase to the property is negligible it could give you better options longer term

I saw this video of an EV fire in China and as I watched all I could hear in my head was one of the firemen turning to the other and saying "You were only supposed to blow the ,,,"😄 https://www.youtube.com/embed/KWX5aJ63fU8

I was hoping for a faster charging speed to be announced. To me the biggest problem with EV's isn't so much the battery range but how long it takes to recharge when they run out. It'll be less of a problem when more places have destination chargers. I looked at EV's in 2018 when I last changed my car and decided to get a diesel Yeti because I felt the cost, range, charge speed, and charger availability weren't quite where they needed to be for my circumstances. I thought at that time, based on expected EV developments, 2025 would be about right for me to consider an EV, and it's looking like that's going to be a pretty good guess.

There is an excellent thread on here full of info about what tyres it came from the factory on. That would seem to be a good starting place to decide on what could be used. It also has comments from people who have used various brands of tyres. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/148948-yeti-tyre-and-rim-guide/

I think it will probably end up at the stealers service dept, but since it is intermittent the more you can do to identify where the problem lies (or doesn't) before going there the better. Sadly the days are long gone when a problem starting could be cured by some percussive maintenance on the starter motor.

I bought a cheap one off flea bay from China figuring they were all much of a muchness. Plugged it in and it didn't work, lights on but nobody home. Then I did some research (yea, I know, should've done that first ! ). Most of the cheap ones on flea bay are from Chinese sellers (even if they pretend to be UK sellers) and are either 1) run-ons from legit manufacturers orders with chinese factories where the extras get flogged out of the back door of the factory, 2) Knock-offs of an early ELM327 unit where the software code & hardware designs were stolen - sometimes these are repackaged in their own shell to create their own brand - or else a copy of a known brand, or 3) Knock-offs of the knock-offs where they stole the stolen code from another chinese company making counterfeits. A few have a clue what they are doing, but some don't understand either the electronics or the code (or both), don't test the units before dispatch (possibly don't know how to) and have no quality control processes over the electronics. The big problem is you really have no idea what you are buying from these fleabay outfits, even if it looks like a legit brand. After returning the piece of junk from I'd bought I decided to buy an OBDLinkLX unit direct from one of the manufacturers main EU distributors since I didn't want to take the chance with another chinese knock-off in case it damaged my ECU. Risking turning my ECU into a doorstop to save a coupe of quid was more of a gamble than I wanted to take again.

One thing to mention, I'm assuming you live and work in the country, if not be careful with a Euro 4 diesel. Many cities and larger towns are tightening their emissions regs for driving into cities and you could find in a year or two you'd need a Euro 5 diesel to drive to work in the city. Other than that the Yeti has ranked highly in the JD Power satisfaction surveys for years whilst in production. So unless you buy a lemon you should have years of happy motoring ahead providing you look after the routine maintenance.

Probably not, I believe the "Y" won't be available in the UK until after Gigafactory Berlin is producing. Whilst they are making good progress with building that, I doubt it'll be complete until early 2021 with production ramping up after that. My guess would be that elon will push for maximum output initially for their quarterly sales figure push. They seem to achieve this by maximum standardisation, i.e. producing the most in demand variations in bulk. Since UK spec is pretty non-standard, different steering position, pedals, light lenses, etc. I think it will be low on the pecking order for initial production runs. Actually, VW ID4 might be available for delivery to UK customers around the same time as the first model Y LHD's are delivered to EU customers. I've seen rumours of ID 4 production starting later this year. So you may have more choice, but not the one you were expecting.

Also agree with giving the first one a miss, the more I read, the more it sounds like the servicing was neglected a bit. The other reg no may have been nothing, it may have been on a personal plate which the previous owner took with them. I don't care about such things, but some do. I bought my Yeti secondhand with a 2009 private plate on it, confuses people no end as it isn't even close to my initials.

Another possibility is that perhaps your aircon is needing cleaned. Mould and bacteria can grow in the aircon system due to the damp caused by cooling the air. You can get it professionally cleaned, or get a can of dettol aerosol spray cleaner (if you can find it in the shops at present !! ) and DIY the job. Basically you get the car running put the aircon on running full chat, windows down, and go outside and fire about 1/3 can into the cabin fresh air intake. Let it blow through, then reach in through the window and turn the ignition off. Leave the car to air out for a while before before anything else, that dettol isn't going to do your lungs any good either! Later go in, put the windows up, and spray a good dose in each air vent. Then leave the car again for a while. Also worth checking your pollen filter, that traps most of the muck heading into the cabin and things can start growing there. Even if you've paid a garage to change it 8 months ago that doesn't mean it might not need doing again. Easy enough to do, it's located behind a cover down in the passenger footwell,

As with every other trade, it depends. Anyone can call themselves a mechanic or auto electrician and pay for adverts with swish graphics. It doesn't mean they are any good, the good ones usually don't need to advertise a lot, word of mouth is their best advertising. So I'd personally suggest you go on word of mouth recommendations from people you know rather than just google for someone. You and your son must between you know quite a few people, tell them of your problem and ask if they can recommend anyone.

Did you find out which size was correct? I'm looking to get my haldex done soon, so doing my homework just now.