80sNRG

Ahoy there, sorry for not getting back to you sooner! There is no component protection on the screen, it's plug and play. If you upgrade the headunit itself, then that does have protection. I still have my VRS and the screen was definitely worth every single penny.

Ahoy there. I have a 66 place VRS pre-facelift with the cornering xenon lights. I got an alert on the dash about needing to check my drivers daytime running light back in January when it was particularly cold and wet. I checked the engine bay and somehow, the rear cover on my drivers side headlamp popped off and water had gotten in. The cover was sitting there in the engine bay, I tried to dry it out but with the freezing weather I was unsuccessful and the DRL has failed so it alerts everyday now. Am I right in assuming I need to replace the complete unit? Nothing about the unit looks user servicable. Am I right in assuming it's a bumper off job? I'm going to get a 2nd hand part, (these things aren't cheap!) can I get any adaptive Xenon unit from the pre-facelift 2013-2016 era and it'll work? Has anybody done this job? I assume I'll need to pop my existing bulbs and control modules on the unit. Any other jobs you'd recommend doing while the bumper is off? Thanks for any help!

After a few days, the problem has interestingly resolved itself. I like the part where I can lock my car again without the fear of it screaming at 1am. FYI the part number including sensor is 5E0823509B. If anyone is interested, while the car thinks the bonnet is open, it disables the wipers - but if you just start driving and smash a few steering wheel buttons to indicate that you don't care, they work. Thanks for reading.

Car: 66 Plate VRS Hey there! As the title suggests, I might have a faulty bonnet sensor, I assume it's my fault but I was hoping for some clarification. I gave the car a clean earlier and while on the job I sprayed some silicone lubricant spray in the bonnet release catch as it felt a bit stiff, other than that I topped up a few fluids but changed nothing. 4 hours later (20 mins ago) the alarm goes off and the display between the dials indicates the bonnet is red (open) To clarify, the bonnet opens and closes securely just fine and vcds doesn't say there's any faulty sensors. I've tried exercising it, unlocking and locking the car, shouting, using wd40 instead but it still shows as open. I'm not going to do much now as it's pouring down and it's late, but any thoughts on what's failed and what replacement bits I'll need to buy tomorrow?

Ah yes I forgot to mention the MIB2 bit. Woops. Thanks for clarifying

I swapped out my Amundsen screen for a Columbus one and I took some photos along the way, I hope this helps somebody. I suppose this guide is applicable to anyone wishing to remove the screen in their MK3 Octavia. No coding is required and there's no component protection on the screen. Difficulty: 1/5 Time: 30 minutes (Tops) Tools required: Radio removal keys, Electrical snips/side cutters or something sharp - you need to cut a locating plug off one of the connectors. Part(s): MIB2 Columbus Screen (5E0919606) Apparently the MIB2.5 5E0919605M will also fit, but the APP button will not work. I picked up my Columbus screen for £160. You may have to wait and keep searching for the part at a price you like. Step 1 - Find car LCD screen Step 2 - Insert radio keys. Right top and bottom keys fit this way round. You need 4 keys to remove the LCD screen. The notches on the keys need to face inwards towards the screen. You could remove the cover protecting the proximity sensors at the base of the screen but it's not necessary. Get something behind it and pop it off if you're that way inclined. Step 3 - Left top and bottom removal keys fit this way round. Step 4 - Push all 4 keys into the locating holes around the facia, Don't be rough, they don't require much force. Step 5 - Pull back on the keys (requires little/no force) and the screen will fall out. There are two connectors on the back of the screen, remove them both. Your screen is now free and you can now put your Amundsen LCD on eBay. Step 6 - Chop the circled locating block off the blue plug. Step 7 - Your blue plug should now look like this Step 8 - Put the connectors back in the only place they'll fit and push the new screen in. Job done. You're done! I hope this helps someone!

Morning all, My dad replaced the sensor this morning, went for a drive and the dashboard is clear of errors. I've passed on the message to keep an eyeball on corrosion on the hub, for now he's immensely pleased that his dashboard is now clear and it was a cheap fix - bar the cost of that new battery! - But it was due to be replaced anyway. Thanks for the help

Quick update - Tl;Dr: my dad pulled the sensor off, gave it clean and re-attached it and all the lights went away. When the car moved the christmas tree lit up again, so now there's a new sensor on the way. Looks promising! Thanks!

Thanks for the quick reply! As you can tell, I'm rubbish at reading VCDS faults - however drawing my attention to the priority value has filled in some troubleshooting blanks for me. Thank you very much! I have passed the message on and he's gonna jack the car up and have a prod at the rear left speed sensor.

Hi all, I hope you're all well I was hoping for a prod in the right direction on this one. My dad has a 14 plate MK2 Superb TDI 170 thingy, till now it's been a fantasticly reliable car. A few weeks ago his dashboard lit up (please see attached picture) with a bunch of errors. The problems were intermittent at first and would go away after a good drive, however they're now permanent. The car drives just fine and doesn't give any indication there's a problem other than the dash lights. A quick bit of Googling suggested it might be the battery on its way, so he's replaced that but the problem persists. Prior to the replacing the battery he put the previous one on a charger, would that cause an issue or could he have popped something? Now I'm finally able to see my parents again (stupid virus 😡) I paid a visit with my copy of VCDS and found issues with the following systems: - ABS - Steering Assist There were other intermittent errors for the GPS short-to ground and the memory seats, but meh about them for now. So I was hoping it might just be some cheap and crappy sensor that's failed, but it looks like the ABS module has failed so I'll him to check the wiring to it. VCDS log output below I can upload the full log if it's useful. Yes the date/time on his car was all wrong. If anyone could give me a prod in the right direction I'd really appreciate it. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 03: ABS Brakes (J104) Labels:. 1K0-907-379-60EC1F.clb Part No SW: 1K0 907 379 BM HW: 1K0 907 379 BM Component: ESP MK60EC1 H46 0164 Revision: 00H46001 Coding: 863D6016092600FB610B06E5901A0092A0000023 Shop #: WSC 33361 790 00056 VCID: 7EF39FBCE9CA7E7670-802A 6 Faults Found: 02214 - Tire Pressure Warning 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100010 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 3 Mileage: 117737 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2014.09.25 Time: 08:31:48 Freeze Frame: Count: 0 Count: 32768 Count: 4608 Count: 16401 Count: 54075 Count: 0 Count: 64767 Count: 0 00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100010 Fault Priority: 1 Fault Frequency: 4 Reset counter: 13 Mileage: 117878 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2014.10.19 Time: 14:20:14 Freeze Frame: Count: 3 Count: 2 Count: 4096 Count: 128 Count: 42496 Count: 0 Count: 254 Count: 0 03841 - RPM Sensor Rear Left: Incorrect Signal 000 - - - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100000 Fault Priority: 1 Fault Frequency: 4 Reset counter: 21 Mileage: 117886 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2014.10.19 Time: 15:04:05 Freeze Frame: Count: 2 Count: 2 Count: 20480 Count: 71 Count: 43776 Count: 3782 Count: 65535 Count: 0 00290 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Left (G46) 003 - Mechanical Failure - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100011 Fault Priority: 1 Fault Frequency: 11 Reset counter: 23 Mileage: 117908 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2014.10.20 Time: 10:21:40 Freeze Frame: Count: 0 Count: 0 Count: 4608 Count: 67 Count: 53261 Count: 63990 Count: 63748 Count: 0 00290 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Left (G46) 012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 01101100 Fault Priority: 1 Fault Frequency: 10 Reset counter: 237 Mileage: 117848 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2014.10.15 Time: 10:16:11 Freeze Frame: Count: 0 Count: 2 Count: 12800 Count: 72 Count: 54016 Count: 62464 Count: 64767 Count: 0 01325 - Control Module for Tire Pressure Monitoring (J502) 004 - No Signal/Communication Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 01100100 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 6 Reset counter: 237 Mileage: 117848 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2014.10.15 Time: 10:16:21 Freeze Frame: Count: 3 Count: 2 Count: 12800 Count: 16390 Count: 53504 Count: 62464 Count: 64512 Count: 0 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 44: Steering Assist Labels: 1K0-909-14x-GEN3.clb Part No: 1K0 909 144 R Component: EPS_ZFLS Kl. 195 3501 Revision: 00H22000 Shop #: WSC 33361 790 00056 VCID: 39794CA07064994E05-806C 1 Fault Found: 01316 - ABS Control Module 013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00101101 Fault Priority: 3 Fault Frequency: 48 Reset counter: 24 Mileage: 118106 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2014.11.16 Time: 10:39:26 Freeze Frame: Voltage: 14.63 V DU Temperature: 35.0°C RPM: 1446 /min Speed: 53.0 km/h Speed: 53.0 km/h Count: 0

I can definitely do that. I've been driving around for the last few days with no apparent errors on the car anyway. Thank you for your help.

Hi all, Hoping someone smarter than me has seen these errors previously. I've got a pre-facelift vRS 230 DSG. I plug it into VCDS every couple of weeks to keep an eye on it. It's a 66 plate and has a warranty till September so I'm going to use that to its fullest while I can. Was surprised today by two errors, one on the engine and the other the gearbox. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 01: Engine (J623-CHHA) Labels:. 06K-907-425-V1.clb Part No SW: 5G0 906 259 C HW: 06K 907 425 B Component: 2.0l R4 TFSI H13 0002 Revision: --H13--- Coding: 0C1D00124424010B0000 Shop #: WSC 73430 031 00000 ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM20TFS0205G0906259C 001005 ROD: EV_ECM20TFS0205G0906259C_VW37.rod VCID: 2E536FFC712A4E3A7F-807A 1 Fault Found: 14874 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) P0341 00 [096] - Implausible Signal Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Readiness: 0000 0000 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 02: Auto Trans (J743) Labels: 0D9-927-770.clb Part No SW: 0D9 300 020 L HW: 02E 927 770 AQ Component: DQ250-6V MQB H54 4901 Revision: 06354004 Serial number: TFK01607080249 Coding: 0014 Shop #: WSC 73430 031 00063 ASAM Dataset: EV_TCMDQ250021 001001 ROD: EV_TCMDQ250021.rod VCID: 1E33BF3C018ADEBACF-804A 1 Fault Found: 10763 - Starter Enable from Selector Lever Sensor System P1734 00 [002] - - Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Are these errors familiar to anybody else? The engine error looks pretty self-explanatory so I'm going to take the log file back to the dealer which is down the road. Regarding the transmission, is it start/stop system related? I tend not to use the start/stop system as it's too invasive, however I enabled it the other day in traffic and the engine didn't turn off. After digging further into the car settings, the car stated "engine needs to be running", - but it pulled off anyway and has worked again since. Car has 14k miles on it, bought back in August on 6k and it's been flawless since. I'm sure these start/stop systems are going to be the death of many modern vehicles. Thanks for any help you can provide.

Ahoy Alex! I came from a Civic Type-R (EP3) to a PFL VRS 230 DSG thingy about 7 months ago. I narrowed it down to a PFS or FS 230, but the diff and a couple of other options pushed me towards the pre-face 230. Your research sounds correct and as usual the knowledge on this forum has filled in the blanks. PFL 230 comes with the E-LSD thing which you can adjust in the settings menu, the exhaust makes a fart on upshifts at higher RPM, comes with heater leader (in the front), folding and auto-dimming mirrors, lots of black trim for extra blackness, lane assist, 19" kerb-finders, yadda yadda. It's good daily. I wish the person before me had specced the nicer headunit, but it's not a deal breaker. Personally, it took me a while to get used to as I'd never had anything this modern. If you've never owned a DSG car, at first you will hate the DSG - Then you'll adapt and really like it. In town or on the morning commute, it's wonderfully calm. On a B road in manual, it's basically Forza. Regarding remaps, I'm still doing research myself - but haven't commited as I still have a warranty. The tuning scene for the EA888 Gen3 is nuts and it appears to be a well-engineered lump, Revo is a good place to get an idea of baseline numbers for remaps. I believe the DSG varient will actually take more power than the manual, but with a 10 year plan... (as echo'd above) there's a lot to be said for the simplicity of a manual. I hope some of that was useful anyway. Good luck whichever car you pick :)