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Vijay2018

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  1. I've just messaged the supplier as Google says it should be an ina tensioner pulley, not a gates
  2. very disappointed to see the INA kits uses a Gates tensioner
  3. Cheers Pete. What do you mean "fasteners that are taken into the plastic region"?
  4. Hello bud, Exactly as I've read, anything 1/4 torn are stretch. Ai tells me they are an extra turn but I'll try and look into it further. Someone on a fb page said he's always just reused them without a worry
  5. Hi, Does anyone know which ones are stretch bolts and need replacing when doing the timing belt on a 2004 Mk1 1.9 1u5 Octy? AI is doing my head in today telling me different numbers Cheers Vijay
  6. it was the only part that showed age. I expected the water pump to be shot cos I'd overheated and HG went. That was perfect. The belt looks brand new, no cracks at all. Bearings and rollers looked ok but I guess they're more difficult to tell. I'm going to get an INA kit
  7. Deffo not gonna use gates kit, looked closer at the tensioner today and it was cracked on the shaft
  8. Hey Alasdair, How you doing? I asked on FB too and read that Gates are good on the belts but outsourced the other parts in recent years and gone downhill. I threw it in Google AI and said the same. INA has been recommended as the top kit you can get
  9. Hi all, In the process of an engine rebuild and looking for some advice on timing belt kits for my 2004 1.9 TDi 110 ASV. I've used a Gates kit before which seemed fine but wondered if anyone has used Febi or Continental? Also read a bit about plastic v metal impellors, people saying the plastic ones can come loose on the shaft. The kits I've mentioned all come with a plastic impellor, replicating OEM. The Gates one I removed was fine after 5+ years. Cheers for any advice. Vijay
  10. And I had a Gates kit fitted about 5 years ago which AI says used a plastic impeller as per OEM. Before seeing a lot saying about the plastic v metal impeller, I'd wondered if my water pump was working properly. I tried seeing what water was coming back through that expansion pipe a few weeks back. I looked at idle and at 2k revs. I'm not sure how much water should have been flowing but it certainly didn't look that much of a flow to me and made me wonder if my water pump was working as it should. MY HG or head definitely has an issue as it's failed a gf sniffer test and it's bubbles galore in the expansion tank. It also gets to 100C on idle with the thermostat out
  11. Good idea with a compression test, never know what it might help with later if anyone asks. Will have to get a locking set. Watching videos to get my head around everything and what's needed. Already got a square spline set
  12. timing belt change: write up https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/timing-belt-marks-wandering.413904/ another https://pmmonline.co.uk/technical/how-to-install-a-skoda-octavia-timing-belt/ Handy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=coS1uZFRPwc
  13. Hello bud, I'm definitely leaning on removing the cylinder head and going from there. I'm looking to see if I can find a write up on the timing belt and cylinder head first
  14. Have to be honest, I'm leaning towards refurbing the engine but no real idea what's involved. Done 2 cylinders heads in my time and no further engine work. Always done normal servicing and tackle most jobs, but out of ten how bad would it be? Would any timing have to be locked into place when you remove the head and pistons? I assume not as everything has to be removed?? How difficult is it to time everything back up with a new belt kit?
  15. Hey guys, Sadly it's looking like my Octavia days which have been pretty brilliant could be at an end, unless I can find a replacement engine. Looking like a blown head gasket/cracked/warped head so it's not driveable now and boiling away (95C+ even without the thermostat in). It's also had a burning engine oil issue for years. It's a 110 ASV engine. So my options are: Say goodbye to my brilliant Octavia ☹️ Try and find a replacement engine, throw it in and hope. Downsides are obviously they are bound to be old engines with high mileage Pull the head off my car and get the head checked and possibly skimmed. Attempt a rebuild to sort out the oil burning. My mate is pretty handy around VW engines and very knowledgeable but doesn't live local. He knows a place to do any machining who also is a VW head so that helps too. I spoke to the machine guy who said the rebuild is the only real option if I want a reliable engine. I've worked on my own cars for years and have tools. What I don't have is a workshop or experience/knowledge of engine work. What would you do? Cheers Vijay

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