Vijay2018

I'm still stuck with engine timing of 38 on VCDS, which won't change no matter what I do with the pump (retard or advance). It still drives though but totally lacking power and hesitates. Things I've tried so far are: "Hammer mod" to get the injection quantity adjusted so the car would idle nicely. Re-checked timing marks which are still lined up. Changed crank sensor. Check resistance on the #3 injector needle lift connector. Used AI and VCDS to check the #3 injector needle lift sensor. Used AI and VCDS to check the N108 sensor New fuel temp sensor. Turbo was off and cleaned and I have re-checked the the shaft spins freely. Does anyone know if I should check the static timing with a dial gauge? The 6mm locking pin lines up but I wonder if that could be out? (so the IP is out of the correct timing when the 6mm locking pin is in place) I'm getting desperate as I need a car and winter is here. Any other suggestions? Cheers for any help

mate I'd love to but it's all I have. I've asked on forums and FB groups but not getting much back. I know AI is doing exactly what you're saying, but it's avenues to explore and rule out and that's better than nothing.

Checked the connectors and they are, very is in grey and black is in black. Ended up doing the hammer mod and the idle is now happy and idling at 903. Now it's totally flat between 1k and 2k revs. One step forward two back...... Still stuck on timing of 38 so next step is check the timing points all still line up

funny enough I was just reading with AI to use measuring blocks on VCDS instead of the graph. I don't know, but AI says IU can't be a tooth out as I've gone through the pump range of not starting (too retarded) to bad clattering (too advanced).

sadly the fuel temp sensor didn't make much difference. I'm totally stuck with AI sending me round in circles

I'll be changing the fuel temp sensor hopefully Monday. I hope it's not worrying, 5 minutes totems into 5 hours.....

Hello mate, There no adjustment on the camshaft on mine, you lock it from the end where the vacuum pump sits. So being is screwing with my fuel and I don't know what

HI all, Hoping someone can shed some light as I'm desperately out of my depth. My car is a 2004 Skoda Octavia 1.9 TDi 110 81kw asv 1u5. After a head gasket replacement and timing belt change, I'm trying to set the timing using the graph in VCDS. No matter what I do with the pump, the graph will only show 38 and on the bottom it says "timing within spec: slightly retarded. Nothing I do changes that. I have adjusted the pump to retarded where it won't start and advanced where it clatters. I've tried in between those points but can't change that graph from 38. The car drives well enough but has some slight hesitation under 2000rpm but fine after that. Idle is a horrible, feels like the engine wants to shake itself out. I believe my G81 fuel temp sensor is lazy so I'll be changing that when the triangle bolt tool arrives. I had the injectors refurbed. I've tested the needle lift wire and get a resistance reading of 117 so that's fine from what I've read. I have a very low injection quantity reading which bounces from 0 to under 2. I tried changing the adaptation number but that didn't make much difference. When I first looked it was set to 32668. I've read the iq number should be between 3 & 5 and the "hammer mod" may be required? I've wondered if I'm a tooth out on the timing, but AI says the car wouldn't run if it was a tooth out. Any ideas on where to look and what to check would be massively appreciated. Cheers

I've just messaged the supplier as Google says it should be an ina tensioner pulley, not a gates

very disappointed to see the INA kits uses a Gates tensioner

Cheers Pete. What do you mean "fasteners that are taken into the plastic region"?

Hello bud, Exactly as I've read, anything 1/4 torn are stretch. Ai tells me they are an extra turn but I'll try and look into it further. Someone on a fb page said he's always just reused them without a worry

Hi, Does anyone know which ones are stretch bolts and need replacing when doing the timing belt on a 2004 Mk1 1.9 1u5 Octy? AI is doing my head in today telling me different numbers Cheers Vijay

it was the only part that showed age. I expected the water pump to be shot cos I'd overheated and HG went. That was perfect. The belt looks brand new, no cracks at all. Bearings and rollers looked ok but I guess they're more difficult to tell. I'm going to get an INA kit

Deffo not gonna use gates kit, looked closer at the tensioner today and it was cracked on the shaft

Hey Alasdair, How you doing? I asked on FB too and read that Gates are good on the belts but outsourced the other parts in recent years and gone downhill. I threw it in Google AI and said the same. INA has been recommended as the top kit you can get

Hi all, In the process of an engine rebuild and looking for some advice on timing belt kits for my 2004 1.9 TDi 110 ASV. I've used a Gates kit before which seemed fine but wondered if anyone has used Febi or Continental? Also read a bit about plastic v metal impellors, people saying the plastic ones can come loose on the shaft. The kits I've mentioned all come with a plastic impellor, replicating OEM. The Gates one I removed was fine after 5+ years. Cheers for any advice. Vijay

And I had a Gates kit fitted about 5 years ago which AI says used a plastic impeller as per OEM. Before seeing a lot saying about the plastic v metal impeller, I'd wondered if my water pump was working properly. I tried seeing what water was coming back through that expansion pipe a few weeks back. I looked at idle and at 2k revs. I'm not sure how much water should have been flowing but it certainly didn't look that much of a flow to me and made me wonder if my water pump was working as it should. MY HG or head definitely has an issue as it's failed a gf sniffer test and it's bubbles galore in the expansion tank. It also gets to 100C on idle with the thermostat out

Good idea with a compression test, never know what it might help with later if anyone asks. Will have to get a locking set. Watching videos to get my head around everything and what's needed. Already got a square spline set

timing belt change: write up https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/timing-belt-marks-wandering.413904/ another https://pmmonline.co.uk/technical/how-to-install-a-skoda-octavia-timing-belt/ Handy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=coS1uZFRPwc

Hello bud, I'm definitely leaning on removing the cylinder head and going from there. I'm looking to see if I can find a write up on the timing belt and cylinder head first

Have to be honest, I'm leaning towards refurbing the engine but no real idea what's involved. Done 2 cylinders heads in my time and no further engine work. Always done normal servicing and tackle most jobs, but out of ten how bad would it be? Would any timing have to be locked into place when you remove the head and pistons? I assume not as everything has to be removed?? How difficult is it to time everything back up with a new belt kit?

Hey guys, Sadly it's looking like my Octavia days which have been pretty brilliant could be at an end, unless I can find a replacement engine. Looking like a blown head gasket/cracked/warped head so it's not driveable now and boiling away (95C+ even without the thermostat in). It's also had a burning engine oil issue for years. It's a 110 ASV engine. So my options are: Say goodbye to my brilliant Octavia ☹️ Try and find a replacement engine, throw it in and hope. Downsides are obviously they are bound to be old engines with high mileage Pull the head off my car and get the head checked and possibly skimmed. Attempt a rebuild to sort out the oil burning. My mate is pretty handy around VW engines and very knowledgeable but doesn't live local. He knows a place to do any machining who also is a VW head so that helps too. I spoke to the machine guy who said the rebuild is the only real option if I want a reliable engine. I've worked on my own cars for years and have tools. What I don't have is a workshop or experience/knowledge of engine work. What would you do? Cheers Vijay

I did many times and it cleaned things up before. I think without something to break down the oil, couldn't see how cold water from a hose would flush any oil out

I'm hoping I have a oil cooler issue again and not the HG. I wondered if it was ok to bypass the water side of the oil cooler for a short while and see if I'm still getting oil in the coolant? What damage/negative effects would I have if the coollant side of the oil cooler was bypassed? Cheers Vijay