uttanutta12

'Tubs is much better going from Hawes north, in my opinion. Any sunny summers day you'll have to share it with a replica Tour de France unfortunately. As VRT says, the road from hawes down to ribblehead is also a great road. Bellerby Ranges out the top of There's loads of variations of route that's good depending on what type of road you want to go on where you're starting out and where you want to end up, but an easy starter if buttertubs is a must is: Ripon - Masham - Leyburn - Hawes following the A6108 to leyburn then onto the A684. In hawes turn right before the road splits into the one way through the town centre, up and over tubs to Thwaite. Turn left at the end and follow along until just after Keld where there should be a couple of hairpins up a steep climb. Follow that all the way along and you'll come out at Tan Hill, englands highest pub. From the pub you can drop down into Reeth and loop back to leyburn, go along to hawes and down ribblehead back to the A65/A59 or you can drop into Richmond to access the A1(M). If you want more detailed routing, I'm happy to throw you some maps depending on what you want. I'm reasonably local 😁

Yes but just traction control, it still runs stability in the reduced function Need VCDS to deactivate the SC fully

You're not far off, just the TC is only on or off, no reduced function. All to remember on the skoda is ASR = TC and ESC = SC It's been a while but as I remember Default - TC & SC on 1 press - TC off, SC on Hold - TC off, SC 'Sport/Reduced' Long code 06 Default - no change 1 press (it seems to change to a very firm, slightly elongated press from a quick flick of the button though?) - TC off, SC reduced Hold - TC & SC off

I rarely switch my ESC to 'OFF', but it's nice to be able to when I feel the need.

As @e-Roottoot says that is just traction control, not stability control i'm afraid!

Definitely worth getting an alignment with a printout, maybe hunt about for a specialist/tuner if the well known franchise isn't cutting the mustard (even if you just do toe as it's normally cheaper at £25-30) then you can see what you're dealing with. If you post it up in here i'm sure someone can reference the OEM spec for camber etc.

Was it ESC Sport or ESC off? Sport relies more on the steering input, so if you're smooth it'll move around more. If you're aggressive it tends to think you're having an accident

Normally lowering affects the toe as well as the camber. Your bald inner shoulder is probably more a result of the tyres constantly scrubbing with excessive toe than the camber. Easiest solution is to get a hunters alignment or similar which measures toe, camber and caster on both axles to give you a full picture of which direction the wheels are pointing

Are you manually inserting a space between the two sections of the postcode? I.e. NE2 3WD not NE23WD

I think it's 6 on my Amundsen. I have three pages of presets though, just swipe the screen left and it brings up the second and third page.

You'll need VCDS or similar to adjust the coding within the ABS module of the car. I did it as per this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7lUtH012kec as the controller is the same. But you must check for your car, before adjusting anything! :)