gilroom

I am looking for advice re. our 2007 Roomster with BTS engne and auto-box. After experiencing EPC light a few times, and some jerky throttle response it seems the throttle body needs replacing on our 2007 Roomster 1.6 16v auto. A throttle pedal swap with a known good one made no difference - still getting a 'kerk' sometimes when changing throttle setting from a steady speed. And, more throttle lag / slow response when setting off even when engine is warmed up. Plugs + air filter are good etc. EPC light goes off when engine re-started, and can be Ok then for a couple of journeys. No split air pipes found. Throttle body seems to be the culprit and its cheap and easy to replace. BUT - question 1: Does it need re-alignment after replacing? Or, will it re-learn by itself after re-connecting battery and leaving ign. swithced on for a few minutes? AND - question 2: If it needs re-alignment after replacement, is anyone in Derbyshire (we are SK17) able to assist with this? I don't have diagnostic kit and our local garage is not experienced with this sort of thing. Advice would be much appreciated

Pleased to hear it! Don't lock it again......until you have either changed the lock OR, disabled the offending lock by unplugging it. I found that everything worked fine if the lock was un-plugged. Be aware though, the alarm will probably go off if car is locked and the door is opened just due to movement etc. Door card removal is quite easy: Window winder off, slide the thin locking-collar 'upwards' away from the handle direction (if it's manual rear windows). Remove handle trim-cover, prise / pull cover off carefully. Easier if left in the sun for a while, everything softens. Remove 2x larger Torx screws under the handle cover (magnetic driver or grease on bit helps avoid dropping screws in door). Remove 2x small torx screws from recesses in bottom edge of door card. Prise card off the door, breaking many green plastic clips......i use a thin plastic 'slice' to start levering the card off. Lift card upwards slightly to free it in the window area. Support the card and carefully disconnect the lock release cable from the interior handle. The end of the cable-outer will unclip so you can then release the inner wire nipple from the door-handle. The card is then free. Carefully cut foam type panel away from the lock area, it can be re-taped back on after the work. Un-plug the cable going into the base of the lock which is now de-activated. Slide phone or small digi camera into the recess and take pics of the back of the lock which you cannot see. A bit tricky but you should get a decent-ish pic of the label on the lock. Only this part nr. lock will work with your car. Send the number to Skoda Parts Direct in Swindon for an email quote. If it's a later car you may get a cheaper aftermarket lock. The cheaper locks don't work on the earlier cars (certainly not on 2006 - 7, maybe later). Door card clips (decent oem spec) are on ebay: Item 391217708917, or same seller off ebay is vehicleclips.co.uk who also sell oem spec. items like plastic rivets. Don't be tempted to re-use the green clips, they will break in-situ and the doorcards rattle and vibrate. Best changed, any time a card is taken off. Consider changing any lock as soon as it becomes 'intermittent'. The 'open with console-button + engine running' may only work once or twice - its simply not worth the pain of having to remove a door card with a locked door (usually happens in winter when it's peeing down too). You need the (12-spline?) bit for the 2 lock-fixing screws in edge of door. The exterior-handle vertical link-rod prises off the lock ball-joint, before the lock can be removed from the door. Good luck.

I was very lucky getting the rear door unlocked after it was stuck shut for many months: The motors usually respond to a healthy voltage (15 volts+) so may be worth getting the battery charged as much as possible (leave on trickle overnight), then start the car, warm up a few minutes, rev at ca. 1500 rpm then use the lock - unlock button from inside. I found this increased the voltage to the lock which got the lock-motor moving. Have someone outside (or in back seat) to check if it opens when you press unlock. If it opens don't press lock again! It may be the last time the motor decides to work. If it doesn't open first time, try the lock - unlock button several times. mine opened after about about 5 goes. If no luck and you then get the door card off (be prepared for breaking all green clips - they will need replacing) it is possible with contortion + patience to then move the (red?) locking quadrant manually which then allows the door to be opened. This avoids smashing up the lock, v. difficult with door closed or open. Look at pics of a door lock to identify the locking quadrant which moves easily, can be pulled over with a piece of carefully bent wire (coat hanger?). I spent ages looking for the replacement lock, many VW part numbers are almost the same but - dealers system could not cross-reference any VW lock to the Roomster rear door. Best option for me was Skoda Parts Direct at Swindon, very helpful with e-mail and phone info, correct, genuine new lock came next day, cheaper than any other supplier. The lock spec. / part nrs. changed on some models / years, its important to get exactly the same nr. lock. I got a pic. of the lock part nr. sticker on back of the lock, inside the door before I removed the lock, it helped greatly having the new lock to hand before trying to work on it. Thanks for the polo pdc sensor tip. I'll have a look. Mine are MetaSystem 3-pin sensors, Italian I believe. Loads of Chinese copies available but I had no success with them. I may try PSA C3 MetaSystem sensors which appear identical. Different years had different sensors apparently.

Updated, 06.05.25 After the door finally opened, changing the lock wasn't difficult, just required a bit of patience. Important was having the new lock to see where parts connected, and what / where to disconnect for removal. The vertical link-rod from exterior handle didn't need unscrewing from its plastic clip - just popped the ball joint, then the lock was free to remove. I put new 'draught-excluder' on mating faces of the lock / door to replace the old self-adhesive sealer-strip (gasket). The new (genuine) lock from Swindon was cheaper than the one which didn't arrive from abroad. New (green) door card clips had to come from a different supplier - they are apparently obsolete. New problem now is - replacing dead parking sensors. Also obsolete. Loads of aftermarket ones. Some suppliers say they fit my vehicle, other say the same part nr. doesn't fit. Nightmare? And massive price differences, seemingly all for Chinese parts. And, many reports that aftermarket sensors last max a few months. Then: one supplier offered Citroen C3 / DS3 / Peugeot 5008 pdc, says it's definitely for the 2007 Roomster. Turns out they are also Meta System sensors from italy. Any thoughts - can this be correct? They certainly appear physically identical. This is the wrong thread but I can't see how to post a new question! Forum's aren't usually my thing.

Thanks Pete and Bob. Yes both helped to some extent. And I think I am further forward to getting the old lock out. I ordered a new lock from Skoda parts, excellent service, ordered Thursday, arrived today. Mfg. date code appears to be 17th April, amazing. My difficulty removing the lock apperas related to the exterior door handle connecting-rod. Now i got the new lock I can see the threaded portion of the exterior handle connecting rod simply clips into the small plastic ball-joint, secored with a flip-over clip. Now i can undo / flip-open the clip on the old lock in-situ, pull the rod out and fingers crossed should then be able to manipulate the lock out of the door. It looks as if I will have to slide the lock upwatds or downwards to get it out. If that's all there is to it I feel a bit daft asking so many questions about it! I'll know more tomorrow when I get time to work on it. Then order handfuls of green clips for the door panel (and others which are rattling).

Was there a conclusion to this problem, Roomster rear door lock failure? I have the same problem with my 2007 Roomster, n/s rear door. For a long while it only worked with the console button, and rengine running. So I assume this lock required more power to actuate. After a couple of years the lock won't function at all, n/s rear door stuck closed. So - 24 hours of trickle charging the battery, engine running, and the console button did unlock it. I have a new lock on order, 5J7839015A but LLL Parts cancelled my order and say it's no longer available. I found another supplier who say approx. 3 days to supply so its on order with them. I removed door card, but I am having difficulty removing the lock: The 2 large torx-screws come out easily but the lock will not come out... So in the meantime, torx screws back-in, and the lock has the plug disconnected. C/L works, and the n/s rear door simply remains unlocked. But, 2 problems remain: 1) I cannot see how to disconnect the vertical outer-handle rod from the lock mechanism (small plastic ball-joint?) 2) The lock is 'loose' in the door with screws out, but will not come out from its place. I cannot see what is holding it. If anyone can advise on those 2 problems it would be a great help!

Dealers have difficulty to diagnose Roomster windows correctly as specific faults won't show up when they scan. So they will always blame the door looms (which DO fail) and switches which get corroded. Drivers side motor failure especially around '08 and '08 models is common. Our '07 Roomster had dealer visits 3 times for window problems, the previous owner was charged each time for the diagnosis scan, and fitting a drivers side door loom. The problem was never fixed until Pete repaired the Temic module on the motor. The motor is really easy to remove, the door card can even be left in place, just remove the 2 interior door handle torx screws, the 2 small torx screws at the bottom edge of the door card, loosen the clips (carefully, use a plastic knife etc. as a lever and most clips will break anyway) and reach up from underneath to disconnect plug from the window switch to get more room to work, and 2 plugs from the motor. put a short torx bit in a 1/4" ratchet and remove the 3 fixing screws from the motor, carefully pull it off the window drive-hub and remove from bottom of the door. The whole operation takes 10 minutes. You need a mat to lie on and a good head torch. Send the motor to Pete. The window should stay up while the motor is out. And when you get the motor back, perhaps clean / lubricate the window guides with dry silicone spray, it helps the motor to run with less current.

Pete's service is highly recommended! Our 2007 Roomster suffered from intermittent windows for approx. 2 years. Dealers could not find the problem. It's not easy to diagnose the faulty Drivers side motor as defective door-looms and switches may show similar symptoms. Problem was, the 'dead' windows would work if both sides are disconnected, left a while and re-connected. Then they work until the ignition is switched off for a period of time. After that, they are 'dead' again. If window-switches and door-looms are confirmed OK (and they are cheap + easy to change) then the drivers side motorcontrol-module almost certainly needs repair. As Pete says, other VW group vehicles from this period, e.g. Polo, Transporter use the same motors and are similarly affected. I sent the suspect motor to Pete who immediately confirmed it was defective, did the repair work and put it on test. Within days I had the repaired motor back in place, both window functions restored immediately (just needing to reset the 'one-touch' function). Congratulations to Pete who persevered to research and resolve this common fault, making a repair economically effective (other option is a replacement motor, around the eyewatering £200, only from Skoda / VAG dealers). The great bonus is that a perfectly good motor unit does not need to be thrown away because of a repairable module fault. Well done Pete. Highly recommended, and a very knowledgeable and valuable member of the Skoda community.