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Posts posted by GT0161
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The rack was damaged
a bolt had been squashed between the sub frame and rack all is working fine.
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Update
replaced steering rack all is fine said bolt that was lost had caused tiny tiny damage Like Brand new
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Hi there I have recently had my clutch replaced too and after the steering has been awful super stiff I have replaced the steering pump And still was happening so
I have acquired a rack second hand and I am in process of having it fitted hoping it resolves my problem I will keep you posted I’m hoping to get the car back for Friday
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Thanks mate iv got a used rack and lines with sub frame so going to swap the lot and see if it fixes the problem
I hope anyway I just wonder if it could be gearbox related at all speed sensors etc just cannot understand it as there’s no fault codes present 😫
The car is paid for now so soon as I can fix it I can get rid of it I would like to scrap it to be honest 😂 I would hate to pass this lemon onto somebody else...
currently on 47,100 miles
new clutch at 46k
burns 1ltr of oil every 900miles
On 05/07/2020 at 20:11, thomasaspin said:Hi mate I had this problem it was like there was no power steering and it was a steering rack problem I think one of the hydraulic lines was crushed
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So after clutch replacement my steering has been knackered very stiff
so I replaced the steering pump problem still there.
strange thing is in reverse it’s totally fine no feedback Or resistance at all
I have purchased a new rack and lines hoping this will remedy it.
but the weird thing is why is it ok in reverse???
it feels like air lock and you can hear a pressure noise like escaping gas when you try and turn more once fully locked to the left or right.
could it be fine in reverse because something maybe on backwards 😂
I’m really at the end now the garage who caused the problem have tried there best to fix but have no idea what the problem is could the sub frame be bent??
wheb they have prised the box out? As they only lowered the sub frame instead of removing it I.e how the workshop manual states.
if anybody is a steering guru near Manchester and would like to try and help me diagnose the problem...
has anybody ever heard of this strange problem. A very master tech who replaced my pump said he has no idea possibly air lock or even damaged the rack inside as when they lowered the sub frame it’s popped out of the rack and just popped back in causing damage?
there was also a bolt that was missing out of the gearbox. My mechanic found it sandwiched between the steering rack and sub frame but there is no obvious signs of damage but the washer on the Bolt was bent where it had been squashed between.
any help is much appreciated
thank you in advancedan
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@Roottootemblowinootsoot engine is ok no problems. Supercharger clutch in water pump needs replacing.
car is currently in a garage they messed up my steering. I changed the steering pump still a problem. This all stems from having my cutch replaced.
I think they have damaged the rack. A bolt was missing out of the box! My mechanic found it sandwiched between the sub frame and steering rack and the washer on the bolt had squashed under pressure so they have for sure damaged it. I dropped it off Monday I have a post on here regarding stiff steering.
my mechanic diagnosed.
Damaged rack or air lock in the lines or possibly damaged lines.- 1
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2 hours ago, Wino said:
On the mk1 Fabia there's a horrible gotcha relating to gearbox removal and the steering rack...
The bolt that holds the rear end of the dogbone mount into the subframe has a captive nut welded to the subframe right under the rack tube. The bolt is an odd length - 61mm. This is because if you put anything longer in there, it pushes into the rack tube denting it, effing up the power steering. Looks to be the same length on mk2's: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2011-697/1/199-199025/
Trouble is there's a bunch of bolts that are the same size thread but 65mm long holding the gearbox to the engine, so if the bolts are just bunged in a pile it's easy to pick up the wrong one and put it in the rear of the dogbone mount. You may be able to see if this looks to have happened, if the bolt tip appears to be pushing into the underside of the rack tube. not sure what visibility is like on a mk2 vRS though, possibly better from below or wheel arch area?
If it does look to have happened photograph it for evidence before doing anything else...
Hi and thank you for tour help iv been back up to the garage and checked the bolts as you mentioned and there all fine nothing has come into contact with the rack all seems fine. I think it must be the pump with electrical readings we got
1 hour ago, J.R. said:What a horrible situation to happen at this current time, I do hope that you get a resolution.
Thank you
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Tested power steering motor
60amps left turn
7amps. Right turn
im guessing my power ateerig motor is knackered
but no lights on dash no fault codes etc i have no idea gonna get the AA out see if they can diagnose it maybe
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Basically they said go home,
find a garage that has the most up to date vagcom software as they couldnt programme it ? ?
I said i will send them the bill....
as there diagnostics didnt have steering options or something.
i have mild learning difficulties and find it hard to remember and just lost my job today cos of covid19 so be gentle please lol
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1 minute ago, UrbanPanzer said:
Well I was not sure what to say initially, however just checked workshop procedure and it states the steering unit needs to be removed, so with that in mind and you state there was not a problem initially,
this tells me the garage has caused this issue and they should therefore put it right.
The steering unit needs to be removed to replace a clutch is that?
Is the workshop procedure available online
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7 minutes ago, Roottootemblowinootsoot said:
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What kind of cowboy outfit has fitted new clutch packs for you, and how much money have you given them?
All good reviews online and i paid £1000 all in
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So iv had a new clutch fitted and collected the car today,
on my way home the steering felt stiff a further mile or two and i was coming up to a sharp right bend,
the car wouldnt turn,
so gone back to the garage and explained it wasnt like this before having the clutch done...
spent two hours loosening rhe rack and sub frame etc to see if would change... nope nothing
when the car is off the ground it steers 360 degrees fully soon as it back on the ground it will steer left (tightly). And then will only turn a quarter the way right its rather tight/difficult to go full lock right!
It has give no codes as to what it may be checked steering fluid seems lol but was working fine before the new clutch went in
the garage said he couldnt do anything else as ge didnt know the problem
upon pluggingg his diagnostics in he said hasnt got the most up to date vagcom.
And to go home and find a local dealer with vagcom to set up the steering ? Is this correct?
Thanks
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The fork selector? Who has quoted that ? Usually the new clutch and selectors cone in at £1400 ish
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No not yet it slips a bit but i can live with it the £1200 replacement i cannot live with so until it fully breaks i use manual that way i have more control over the gear changing and that way can control the slip better
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This is the sameas mine skoda suspected clutch also a 2011 but with 40k miles
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UPDATE!
Looks like its knackered i have a estimate for squirters to be changed and breathers etc
just under £700
and if that fails its the 2nd option of a new engine i have attatched a covering letter with the prices
hopefully the finance company will do something to rectify this i cant afford any of them estimates!
I have further asked if any goodwill is offered, in case the finance company refuse my claim.
I cannot see any goodwill as the car is a 2011 but with only 40k miles i ahould of thought they would offer goodwill as it left the factory faulty!
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Dont know if this helps but on my first oil consumption test they said they suspect i toppsed it up with oil? Which is not the case at all. I wonder if the oil is hiding somewhere within the engine?
I can 100% say i did not top it up and just before i took it back to skoda for the second part of the test the oil level was at least half way or just below half way on the dipstick!
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I think it will work out cheaper if we just go halfs on a flatbed and drive around with the skoda on the back lmao
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Mines burning 0.9ltr to 500km
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@FlexibleMouse it is probably the oil squirter jets you want the scirocco squirters
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@MRA13 the drl switch is next to the fuses mate
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Very odd before reading this thread my car hadnt done this so today, jumped in my car and it struggled to start the dash lights went very dim then it kicked into life. I find it very strange that its never done it i read that post and its happend lmao I'm on the mk2 vrs page on fbook and in the last mnth or two a lot of 2011 dsg’s are failing.
Makes me wonder is there a certain date like after 6-7 years built into the system to fail purposefully just seems rather odd all cars have different mileages hmmmm
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@FlexibleMouse hi mate maybe have a look into the oil squirter jets. It is beleived that they are one of the cause of high oil consumption due to the angle of the oil squirters. Aparently scirocco ones CAVd are the correct replacement ? Have a search on here.
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@LGM Something that wont burn oil and blow up
Help a new 2011 vrs owner
in Skoda Fabia Mk II (2007-2014)
Posted
Cheers mate was the actual rack damaged as the tiniest dent can mess it up completely