zacherynuk
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Posts posted by zacherynuk
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Hi,
I need to replace a squeaking unit; could somebody please confirm this is the correct part ?
http://www.skodaparts.com/product/octavia-a5-fan-blower-motor-2004-2013-30535
Cheers
Zach
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Ahh, I thought it was just referring to the leather trim... and that the center of the seats were still cloth.
cheers
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Hi,
Has Skoda stopped doing leather interiors altogether for the UK ?
I can't seem to find a leather option on any of the configurators - I want a leather Scout.. muddy clothes and wet bums and toddlers on fabric is not something I wish to deal with...
Cheers
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I keep an eye on mine, even though touch wood it hasn't leaked yet. I still know it affects a lot of Octavias.
Is there not a rubber grommet / bung in the bottom? If I found water in my boot like that I would probably remove that and let most of it drain out before drying the rest up.
There may well be - by the time I had decided to rip out the sound deadening I had already removed the water....
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Just had a gander in my wheel well for the first time on a long time. over 2" of water :( About 3 big bath towels worth!
Have had to discard my sound proofing and dry everything out.
Probably worth a check if you havn't looked in a while - espcially if you use your boot everyday like I do!
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You must have very nice roads where you live...
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The grills on the mark 2 are pretty cheap - I had a side grill stolen (!) and it was only £3 +pp for a enw one, they are fairly brittle.
The bumpers (again I have mk2) are wonderful, I was reversed into by a bloke in a warrior with a tow bar and completly mashed my bumper, licence plate in two halves. The chap at the repair house said he was full and would I be wanting it insurence or cash - I said cash, he trollied under the car game it a single whump with his hand and the entire thing sprung out - only the tiniest of marks above the licence plate to show there was even an issue - which has since been repaired the same way you would a stone chip. Full marks for bumper and paintwork resilience. Chap said no cash needed, but if I had a real prang to come back to him and if he saw me in a pub would expect a pint.
Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Gluck.
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Could just be the sensor... I had one replaced at 3 years / 30k
I had limp mode, forced regen and error reset, light on in 48 hours, no limp. Reset again and 50 mile motorway journey for good measure. limp mode.
New sensor £140
sorted.(phew)
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I find it interesting that without exception those of us who run cold weather / winter capable tyres swear by them.
I have yet to read a negative review, in any regard, yet people who don't run them argue they are not worth the cash.
I think a high silicone / soft compund is far better suited to the UK that a performance high density tyre all year round, we're driving a skoda ffs. on the road. with other people.
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Despite what people say about cold idling, I think it's the most effective thing to do.
I brush the snow and loose hoare frost off (with a floor brush), lets the coils warm up and start her. Then turn everything on max with recirculation, rear heater, lights etc to force the engine to work 200-300revs harder. I then lock the door manually and have a coffee.When I return the car is happy, warm, dehumidified and safe to drive.
For a car parked on a driveway, in my humble opinion, this is the only safe way of doing it. I seathe when I see pricks ambling along, freezing cold, wiping their windows with a sponge, unable to use their side windowes, mirrors or anything: they aren't fit to drive as they are doing too many things, are cold, stressed and are not in a position to operate the vehicle safly.
Alternatives to idling the car (Which I do not see as a problem with modern engines and engine management) is an electric blower in the vehicle and if extreme enough, you can get detachable magnetic sump warmers.
The important thing is that when you leave your drive that both you and the vehicle are ready for the journey.
Edit: An important thing to do is to unstick your wipers from the window - loads of people have had their spindles stripped or wiper motor pop. Also bear in mind that once the oil temp starts registering your are pretty much there, you need +12 air flow into the cab really you are literally just waking her up not warming her up.
EditEdit: Thinking about it, if engines being at idle in cold were bad, why do we do it in our planes ? Typically we will taxi out to hold, bring the revs to something just above a rattle and wait for the temp guage to twitch before doing our brake and throttle tests - if this was gonna break engines in planes I doubt all the manufacturers would make us do it....
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Your rear toe needs to be adjusted but the camber is still someway off. Print out my results and take it with you, they should be able to achieve similar results. Also, why is the Castor greyed out?
Can you adjust the castor on a basic VAG/ Skoda ? I thought you had to buy upgraded Bushes....
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Car drove perfectly straight before I broke an original spring and fitted the coilovers.
^Diagnostics should always start with the recent changes.
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Scales are a machines used for determning the weight or mass of an object.
In car usage, they are most often used for determining the poise and weight distribution of a a vehicle. In many cases they are used to facilitate the altering of the cars' dynamics quickly determining the precise weight of the car and each of it's corners,
If your wheel sits to the right, but pulls to the left, without wieghing the 4 points, I would hazard a guess that your front nearside shock is maladjusted (if it's adjustable) or plain knackered.
If the damper is popped you will get a wallow which will tend for that corner of the car to dip and drag. If the spring is knackered you will get more weight over that corner of the car producing similar results. If the spring preload is adjustable and is too loose you will have better handling than above failure situations, but if bad enough you will drag to the left and point to the right.
Any case they are all dangerous and will all hurt your tyres.
Worth having somebody have a look at - a proper geo place should have, of course - but if they are only doing toe & camber I doubt it - they would have mentioned it anyways. ATS do suspension too though, don't they ?
A few pistonheaders have said good things about: http://www.justcarclinics.co.uk/ in Leeds may be worth you calling around and explaining the symtoms. IMHO It's either suspension or chasis mate, I hope it's the former.
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I drive the http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Goodyear/Vector-4Seasons.htm all year round, They have proved very good in all road conditions and only recently did I try some offroad stuff - bypassing 18" of flood water buy driving up and around on very boggy mud / grass roundabout. They behaved very well indeed - bearing in mind I am in a VRS.
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Have you had it on some scales ? Sounds to me like one / more of your shocks are gone.
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I'm sure I'm not the first person to do this... but I have lost a nut that holds in the front light cluster. It was dark and pi55ing down and it ... went missing.
Where can I get a replacement ?
Cheers
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If they can't get the parts the next working day I would be ****ed off! FFS it's a Skoda, Not a Mark I Ford.
How many taxis ?
Their limited supply makes me think they are expecting a burst bubble.... very soon. Something aint right here. I recently sent a USB drive to a oil well in Kazakhstan, the last 25 miles of which was 1 person in jeep following a GPS reference. It arrived in 4 days. Shipping is easy. (unless you don't have it)
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.... or a pedestrian runs out, or someone moves into your lane and brakes hard?
Would it detect a pedestrian ? (Wanna test it ?)
Would it detect a plastic bag floating across the motor way when you are doing ~76.5 ? (Wanna test it?)
I like the idea, but I would like some hard facts on what it does and how it works. There have been very recent articles published about CAN hacking and squifing and the more the car becomes fly by wire and automated, the more prone to bugs and errors.
Case in point: Toyota: (again!) http://www.nytimes.com/2013/10/11/business/jury-finds-toyota-not-liable-in-death-of-california-driver.html?_r=0
I have no quibbles embracing tech, but I want to see standards, transparency (open source where feasible) and NOTHING RUSHED. It used to be said that the easiest way to kill somebody and get off was to run them over. Now we are approaching an era where we can run them over and blame the car.
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Vector all seasons on 17's all year round here. look good and the grip is snowflake good.
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Not enough in my book.
I want either a VRS with 17" wheels (and soft trim) or a 4x4 with full leather interior.
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@Orville (incase you weren't aware)
GAP insurance covers you for the bit between what you owe on a car and what the insurers deem it is worth.
You buy a shiny new VRS for 25K and drive it 30 miles home. That night it's stolen and burnt out. You would be lucky to get £22k from your insurance. Nothing to do with reputable - once you drive that car is will lose value - probably over %30 in the first 12 months.... but you are always paying for the 25k gleaming glory.
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^ haha no I wasn't having a go; and I realise the post was a bit dickish; I am just genuinely concerned that people will take this tech and use it blindly. Not as an aid, but as an everyday feature.
The roads are becoming a busier, cars are getting bigger and faster. Every single day I see people endangering those around them, usually frivolously, but often with far more dire consequences. Parking is a simple, repeatable and required everyday use of your vehicle that make you better at controlling that vehicle in all situations. I don't want somebody who doesn't fully understand the size and inertia of their vehicle ploughing into me and my family on a country lane at 60 mph because they don't know how wide their vehicle is. Nor do I want somebody going out and buying a beautiful 90's porsche 911 or TVR and losing it because they have never (had to) given a thought to acceleration, braking, understeer, oversteer or parking.
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£50 / year seems very reasonable... if the policy is all there.
It's quite a murky world - I would check with your normal insurer and also your financier (is that the right term?) first to see if they do a deal. I have seen claims take ~6 months to settle - and during that 6 months you are still paying off the loan, and you will not normally get that back! - so you could be out of pocket 2k anyway which ever way you turn...if it's all under one roof the buck tends to stop.
We're still quite lucky in skoda land that the cars are cheap and depreciate quite well. But the thought of bad asset protection on things like BMW's, Jags and Range Rovers scares the bejesus out of me.
Octavia II - 2009 Limited Edition Blower
in Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)
Posted
cool cheers, yep it's wrong - you were right. real component is 3C2820015F - a good deal more expensive :(