Chris300

Thanks for the advice guys. At £13 for the sensor, depending if accessing the part isn’t hard, I’m happy to just replace it. is it easy enough to change?

VCDS has flashed up that my DPF pressure sensors has an open GRD. Looks like the part is cheap enough to replace but I can’t find a “how to”. Does anyone have a guid please? many thanks, chris.

Been scratching around the internet trying to find how to pair my key that has stopped operating the remote central locking. This procedure sorted the problem out straight away. Many thanks. 👍

Thanks, it’s one of a few jobs where I thought it couldn’t have gone any better. 👍 Everthing I had read on the subject was doom and gloom too. But I thought it was worth a go once I found you could buy a repair kit. I should also say that the repair kit doesn’t offer you like for like cables. The is some deviation in colour (which is another reason why I joined the cables where I did so that anyone can trace the colour back), and there may be a slight difference in the gauge of cable as I couldn’t read what the originals are (but they look the same).

Well this wasn’t as bad a job as I was expecting. 👍 The issue started to become apparent a few weeks before total failure, with the drivers window switch intermittently failing. Over the next two weeks the failure progressively became more frequent, finally giving up the ghosts entirely. Diagnosing the problem started with me testing the others window switches with both front and rear near side working but neither front nor rear offside working. The other issues that came up were that the off side doors wouldn’t lock (however the fuel cap did), the mirror adjusting switch also didn’t work and there were no lights to any of the drivers door switches. After a bit of Googling I found myself inspecting the door harness between the hinges. After peeling the rubber sleeving back I could see that a number of the cables had broken. I ordered a repair kit from eBay and got to work when it arrived. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Left-Right-Door-Cable-Wiring-Harness-Loom-Plug-For-SKODA-ROOMSTER-SUPERB-YETI/333814539014?hash=item4db8e5a306:g:RVkAAOSwnRpfyz47 I decided to replace as much of the harness as the kit provided as, in my opinion, trying to fix the issue in the hinge would only lead to failure again as the existing cable was very brittle compared to the new stuff in the repair kit. I cut what remained attached to the harness connector, removed the door card and pulled the harness through the door. I trimmed the cables back to the outer skin of the door and used these brilliant soldering joints to attach the new tails on. (My soldering has never been as good as I would like and these things are so easy to use.) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281x-Waterproof-Solder-Seal-Heat-Shrink-Wire-Cable-Connectors-Crimps-Butt-Joint/393138233400?hash=item5b88dd6038:g:dmkAAOSwdPxgLf-Y After extending the harness, re-taping and pushing back through the door and protective hinge cover and that remained was to hook up to the new connection block. Abracadabra, everything was working again. The job took around two hours to complete and is easily done with a few basic tools. TIP To remove the rubber sleeve between the door. Pull the harness cables through the door, then push the sleeve into to door and then pull it out. I think trying to pry it out will lead to damaging the sleeve.

No problem mate. If you do decide to give it a go yourself I’d be happy to take a video call to help you with areas you get stuck with. But in all honesty, once you get started is all becomes very clear. 👍

Where are you based mate? I’m in Langstone, near Havant in Hampshire. If you want to pop over I’d be happy to sort it out for you. 👍

I didn’t use a drill, all bolts. 👍

Thanks for the advice mate. 👍

Thanks.

Cheers guys. Any guides on how to replace?

135k. The car drives really well, no hunting for gears, clonks when selecting or juddering. Apart from an intermittent (but for the most part permanent) “rattle” from the gear box area when in park or neutral.

Hi guys I’m wondering if someone with a better understanding of the DSG gearbox might be able to shed some light on an interesting issue I’ve been having. The wife’s MK2 Superb’s has always had a rattle that seemed to be coming from the DSG box when in P or N. I put this down to a clutch release bearing however I’ve just changed the DSG thermostat, as the coolant temp took forever to rise, and it seems to have cured the rattle. Now this could all just be a coincidence and the rattle may return on the next journey but until it does I’m going to keep my fingers crossed that the rattle will remain fixed and try and work out how it’s been fixed by replacing the part. So my first thought was that the rattle wasn’t coming from the box and was possible some kind of water pump attached to the DSG cooling system and that the pump was “dry pumping”. We get the same sound when guys open a water delivery at work but not the tank valve. Seems unlikely there would be a second pump, plus I can’t see how having the car out of gear would make a difference to the pump. Does any one else have a theory’s? Cheers, Chris.

Thanks for the link to that amazing guide. It’s such a shame that proper car forums are dying out as you just can’t get this kind of guide anywhere else. Thankfully I’ve already got VCDS, it’s about as useful as a steering wheel for MY daily (Audi C5 RS6). 🤪 I’m also happy to invest in a good pump as I’d like to get into changing the GB oil in that car annually and at £400 a pop it’ll soon pay for itself. Another job on the list now is replacing the air quality sensor. I took her in for a air con Regas, as the wife said it hasn’t been great, and after charging it Kiwk-Fit said that it wasn’t any better (they didn’t charge me). They said that it holds pressure but doesn’t get very cold and that it’s likely an electrical fault but their technician isn’t in for the next two weeks. So I plug in the VAGCOM and got this. It might not be the cause of the issue but it’s still a job that needs doing.

I just wanted to add my thanks to the OP for this amazing How To. I’ll be tackling this job soon, along with a few others, and wouldn’t have had a clue where to start without this guide. 👍👏

Air, pollen, fuel & oil filters, oil change including DSG, water and DSG thermostats, coolant and oil change. Anything else you can think of? Im up for changing the belts but maybe next year. Thanks for the link.

Hi guys. Id like to start doing some work on the wife’s car (Skoda Superb mk2 estate). It could do with the following and it would be great if there were any guides floating around that would guid me in the right direction. *Full major service *Replace thermostat (I’ve also been reading about the DSG thermostat, is this a diy job) *DSG oil change Ive got VAGCOM and a wide verity of tools but nothing I would call specialist. Work I’ve already done to the car includes front and rear discs and pads, front ARB links, window regulator. Cheers, Chris.

I know this is an old post but I’ve just completed this job on my mk2 estate front passenger window in around two hours and that’s with no previous experience at this job and basic tools. I brought the part from eBay at £26 and the fitment is perfect. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-SUPERB-FRONT-LEFT-PASSENGER-SIDE-WINDOW-REGULATOR-WITH-PANEL-2008-2015/392443860275?hash=item5b5f7a1533:g:h-EAAOSwDrpdim2B The linked video pretty much covers all you need to know. Two additions being that there are two of those retaining clips holding the glass to the window “runners”. The second is relating to removing and replacing the regulator. Once you’ve removed the glass you’ll need to remove the 4 bolts holding the “runners”, then the bolts holding the metal plate in place. After that’s done give the plate a bit of a thump to free it from the skin and wiggle it and the runners out the hole the plate was screwed to making a mental not how to twist the new regulators cables to line the new runners up. Honestly guys this job is a piece of ****. Give yourself a few hours and take your time. Good luck. 👍

Hi Gordon Thanks for the link to the other posts, very interesting. I’ve a few other techniques I want to try before I start paying out to replace the unit. With regards to wrapping to trim, that would be a very reasonable and effective solution. The worries some people have that the vinyl wouldn’t stick are ill informed. The only issue you might have would be that once the vinyl is fitted it might shrink around the edge as there’s nowhere to tuck the edges. Shrinkage would be minimal (less than 1mm each side) but if you went for a colour change the edge would be very obvious. Also from my experience “chrome” vinyls aren’t very flexible and may be a little tricky for a DIYer to lay properly.

Took the car to Skoda to see if they could get the two locking wheel nuts off with a spare nut but they had no joy. Looks like I’m going to have to get them smashed off now. 😖 On a more positive note I had a day to properly clean the car today. Looks like it had never had a good clean in all its days. I started off by removing a lot of tar, then the clay bar came out, followed by a polish and wax. She cleaned up as well as I could have asked for apart from the chrome. The roof bars are ok but the chrome around the windows still look a little milky. I’ve attached a few before and after picture. Any recommendations on chrome polish would be welcome. These results were from Autosol.

Thank you. I really like yours too, the white really suits the estate.

To be honest I’m going to ditch the locking nuts. They’re a PITA, either I’ll lose the key or numpties do them up to tight you can’t get them off when you need to. Who’s going to want to pinch a set of 17” standard rims from a Skoda. And the letter stamp is “F”, might see how much a new key from Skoda is thought. Thanks for the advice!

Thanks mate, I’ll keep that in mind.

Thanks for the advice guys. Unfortunately I came unstuck at the first hurdle. The wheels got refurbished as part of the sale, unfortunately the numpties that put the wheels back on didn’t torque the locking nuts on and wound them too tight with a windy gun. Now the locking key is damaged and I can’t get the purchase on the key to remove the bolts. So I’ll try taking it to a garage to see if the can get them off with a gun (I did manage to remove one with an impact driver).

So I brought an estate to replace my wife’s aging Golf and wanted one that my two young boys could grow into. After looking at some of the options within our price range I decided on a nice Superb. The car had one previous with a full history and an exceptional interior (with a minor blemish on the gear stick surround). The exterior has a few issues but nothing that wasn’t to be expected from a car of its age and mileage. There’s been some body work done on the near side rear quarter and front off side wing as far as I can tell but the quality of work looks good other than a little over spray and lack of effort in parts alignment. The paint work needs some detailing but as it’s the wife’s car I’m not going to worry too much about the odd chip here and there, the main job will be a proper clean which the car has never had. The wheels have just been restored with Pirellis wrapping them up. Im about to put new discs and pads all round (is there anything out of the ordinary to think of with this job?) Im looking forward to getting to know the car and you guys better. Cheers, Chris.