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gon

Finding my way
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Posts posted by gon

  1. sorry to hijack the topic.

    I am in the same situation, just moved from UK to EU and even though I can change on the car computer to R-hand or L-hand traffic the MOT inspector here in Portugal said the beam isnt correct.

    Anyone know what has to be done ? and if the solution is new headlights can I buy them and fit them myself or the car will throw an issy fit ?

     

    Thanks for helping.

  2. My thought is "don't"

    but I am probably different from everyone else in here.

    The engineers at VW spent many man hours calibrating the ECU and more importantly they have performed durability testing on their own calibration.

    No durability testing has been performed with any other calibration.

     

    So, it could be fine ... or not .... 

    I have a VRS 220 and I think its plenty for a family car, the Octavia is not a race car

     

    just my 2 cents

    • Like 3
  3. On 06/03/2021 at 21:19, NoGGy said:

    I fitted an induction kit around 12 months ago and have just had a custom exhaust fitted, Hi flow cat and a stage 2 remap. The cars putting out about 320-330bhp (will validate on a rolling road soon). I've never had the clutch slip once and the car is basically not driveable. The clutch slip is so bad I can't get the power down. 

     

    I'm massively shocked as the car has only done 18k and I never had clutch slip at all before the remap.

     

    your first post says you are? or at least were ?

    Clutches are designed like a fuse, they are the first one to go and that way protect your engine, gearbox, driveshafts, etc.

    The are designed for the torque of the engine + a safety margin but certainly not 40%.

     

    • Like 1
  4. I am a bit in to computers and used to work in the area.

    I agree with everything said here but one thing that one must consider is the manufacturing process.

    Please don't underestimate the importance of the manufacturing process on the discussion amd vs intel.

    AMD is using 7nm whilst Intel is still on 14nm.

     

    This mean the actual size of the die inside the CPU is much bigger in the intel, meaning it will generate more heat and when under load it will reduce its own speed to stay cool (unless you go in to water cooling).

    Specially considering you are aiming for a small computer case, heat management is of high importance and AMD is just plain better.

     

     

    I would go with the 3600 (or the 3500 if you are on a tight budget) unless your budget can stretch to the 5600x.

    Please also don't forget you can pair a 3600 or 5600x with a B450 motherboard without much of a performance degradation.

    reasonable good ITX MB can be found for <£100

    e.g. https://www.cclonline.com/product/258109/B450I-GAMING-PLUS-AC/Motherboards/MSI-B450I-GAMING-PLUS-AC-AMD-Socket-AM4-B450-Chipset-Mini-ITX-Motherboard/MBD2484/

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  5. I have the witter non detachable that only takes 2 bolts to detach , 😂😂😂

     

     

    image.png.7239ae6a297fe7aa552a9515ee5c0e1d.png

    The electrics socket swivels and hides behind bumper when not in use.

     

    not used it much but no problems either. car accepted the coding and gave no issues.

     

    PS: both bolts are accessible without removing the bumper so I treat it as detachable tow bad without the arse of dodgy interfaces that dont wanna click in.....

    • Like 1
  6. You will also have increased fuel consumption at motorway speeds due to increased aerodynamic drag.

    I believe that is the main reason why most cars have the wheels tucked in (fuel consumption is seen as a major thing in OEM development) and some even go to the extreme of covering the wheels (1st gen honda insight, etc).

     

    having said that if you are not too worried about fuel consumption, you use a hubcentric spacer (so that the load is on the bore and not the studs) and longer studs it should be fine.

     

     

     image.png.547ef23eb61861087c4beaee1cadfefa.png

  7. On 16/03/2018 at 19:49, canonball said:

    Skoda tracking.pdfSkoda tracking.pdf 326.73 kB · 13 downloads

    Gooday all. Thanks for all the interest in my little problem. Hopefully i've attached the tracking results. If they fail to appear I will have another go. The fitter initially told me that the fronts were ok and the rear passenger side was slightly out. He adjusted the Left rear which thenput the fronts out, which he adjusted back. Interestingly, when I inspected the old rear tyres, although they looked evenly worn, on closer inspection the driver side one had a "wear scuff" mark around 30mm from inside edge. Perhaps the Goodyear F1 tread showed this more as I never noticed this on the Bridgestone's. The tread depth on the inner side was slightly less than the outside. This wheel was in tolerence. The passenger side measured roughly the same across the tread, no scuff mark but was "out" of tolerence, and when adjusted put the fronts out. Well...the tracking was out so hopefully in k9 miles time they will be half worn...I hope! Mind...I like Sneaky Pete's results as they are so Green and even. Mine's Red and large differences in the numbers. There again...just had a week of driving the North Wales scenic railway type roads and handling was faultless. Thanks for the interest.

    I can see 2 things wrong with your PDF.

     

    First it says "without independent rear suspension" and the VRS has independent rear suspension.

    Then it says "standard suspension" whilst the VRS has the Sport Suspension.

     

    Check the technical manual for axles and steering on page 232.

     

    There is so much misinformation about our cars :(

     

     

    • Like 1
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