wilson-uk-85

I have just replaced the front passenger side dipped beam headlight bulb on my Fabia MK3 and what a carry on. The access is so tight and limited both down the side of the battery and the under wheel arch access panel with removable cover. I eventually got the old bulb out and new one reinserted but trying to reinstall the the bulb holder into the light cluster was just as fiddly. In the end I had to disconnect the battery and remove it just to finally refit the bulb correctly. I have replaced plenty bulbs on previous vehicles I've owned in a matter of minutes. The last time I had a headlight bulb out, I went to the Skoda dealer who actually replaced it in like 20 minutes not like the 2+ hours it took me. Is their some kind of special tool which clamps and twists the bulb holder which they use. I've had a rear tail bulb and side capsule bulb out but it's just 2 torx screws and a wiggle of the light cluster to unclip it, they were quick and easy to replace. In future the garage can do the dipped bulbs. I found once was enough doing it myself. I got their in the end and now both headlights are working again, sighs!

greetings fellow Fabia MK3 owners... I have thought about giving my Fabia a bit of an interior makeover, I would like to replace all the interior lighting with LED bulbs, the front interior light both centre and left/right map lights, the glovebox light, rear passenger lights above the doors and the boot light. I don't want to use any old cheap bulb but a decent reputable brand, also would there be any canbus issues?

@DGW How has your Fabia Mk3 been with this Yuasa battery, has everything functioned as normal after installation and coding, no warning lights, stop/start working as normal etc. ?

I now have a Carista Evo dongle (great little obd2 device). I've accessed the BMS and the information currently held for the Exide 59ah EFB battery is as follows: Battery capacity: 59ah Battery technology: EFB Battery manufacturer: JCB Serial Number: 1111111111 The new Yuasa battery is 65ah and Carista can set that, the technology is EFB so that'll be left unchanged, what do you enter as the 3 digit vendor code as this is an aftermarket battery and what about the serial number. The Yuasa has a serial number which begins YI with 9 numbers so is 11 digits not 10?

Hi, I have a new Yuasa YBX7027 battery for my 2017/67 Skoda Fabia. It's surprisingly still on the original Exide EFB 59AH battery but it's starting to get less efficient. My car as usual has the battery management system (BMS) with stop/start and my vehicle requires a new battery to be registered with a diagnostic tool. I've been looking at videos and things online and Carista seems to recommended. Has anyone else with a Skoda vehicle of my generation or another VAG car such as a VW, Audi or Seat fitted and coded a Yuasa battery? using Carista? This battery is a 65ah EFB stop/start type and it's serial number starts with "YI" followed by some numbers.

My Skoda Fabia has just had its service & MOT. I have a folder with all the service history in and I have looked up the wiring loom that failed. VW part number 6C0 971 349 PC. It was the battery connections to the alternator.

My 2017 Fabia is still on the original Exide branded battery from the time it was manufactured and is functioning ok. The issue started intermittently but they couldn't diagnose the issue until the wiring loom finally failed. The battery from time to time wasn't receiving the 13.4-14.8v charging current. I recommend booking in with Skoda or a VW group specialist, or a garage well familiar with the Brand especially if they have the official VCDS equipment.

As long as there isn't any noticeable cracks to any of the wiring looms insulation you should be ok. The damage for me meant the battery also wasn't getting a stable charge from the alternator, was charging as low as 9-11v rather then 13.5 and 14.8v peak.

It was a main wiring loom connecting the ignition switch, alternator, battery and starter motor. Power was not getting from the battery to the allow the car to start "just a relay click" and even with a jump pack no luck. The breakdown agent as car was stuck on my drive got it started by applying a jump pack directly to the starter and it fired up and drove to the garage no problem, once parked at the garage, he said try restart it and it didn't, "just clicked". The garage replaced the loom once technician diagnosed the fault and it there has been no further problems. There was load of oil they had to clean up.

I've responded 😉 I've responded 😉

I'm sorry to see this has happen to you also, this happened to my Fabia last year and was fixed but a month later It suffered an electrical failure between the starter, battery and alternator. A wiring loom has been damaged as a result of the oil leak so also that entire part had to be replaced. No trouble since a year on 😉

I have extended warranty all component cover and VW group accepted liability as a known issue with these engines (I think it was also the influence of the service advisor). I only had to pay £100 excess and £120 for new timing belt kit, £220 not worst car bill.

My Skoda 2017 Fabia 1.0 999cc DSG is £180 a year to tax, how come a 15 plate VW polo 1.2 with higher emissions only pays £20 a year and it never increases?

We all know classic cars have soared in value and may or may not be an investment but instead of Petrol, is there a market for old school diesel's, wait for that amber glow plug light to extinguish and a hard crank of the key. In the 1990's and following 80's the French had huge market share in Diesel's both PSA/Renault throughout their model ranges and many other car manufactures used PSA engines. A less common Diesel which If I remember correctly stood up well against the French in regards of reliability and fuel economy of the day was Fiat's 2.0L (1929cc) unit. An extremely rare Italian classic I'd consider owning but unlikely to find one is the Tempra which ran from 1990-1996 and wasn't a big seller on the UK market in it's day. Only 129'000 were made total across across the world so not a big number all in.

hi all, I now only have one working keyfob for my vehicle as one has completely failed and does not function, no red led, It's not a dead battery, that's all confirmed. The key will still unlock the vehicle manually and start it. Skoda told me its £200 upwards, talk about the cost of car parts. I've found plenty of used fobs for my vehicle often from scrapped cars. On my key there's a retaining pin to allow you to transfer the key blade to a new fob and the owners manual tells you how to sync the remote locking. The issue is the immobiliser chip, how to get the replacement key programmed to the car, does it require specialist equipment or can the chip be removed from the dead fob and also transferred, if the chip is built in, can the previous chipped key be deleted from the vehicle as it's no longer needed?

I've discovered recently that many vehicles which had been off the road for over 20+ years then become SORN. Here an example from an 80's TV series. A 1986 Renault Master T35D van, tax expired on 01/02/2000 and until very recently this year it's now on SORN, last V5 issued in 1994. This applies to quite a few vehicles while many others remain untaxed for the same period. Does this mean these vehicles potentially are still around and were simply taken off the road (parked up/stored) by the owner then a sorn has been declared as there is plans to recommission them. I know of vehicles that have been scrapped for sure but their registration remains in the DVLA system, my late grandparents car was passed to my uncle after my grandad stopped driving, he owned it until 2004 when it blew up and was scrapped. My previous car was scrapped and the registration has been deleted from the DVLA database but remains on mot history check. It seems sometimes the registrations are deleted but also remain in the system.

You were spot on about the cause of the oil leak and this is what the Skoda technician found, slack bolts. The cambelt was all intact but a whole new kit is being fitted due to oil contamination. I have extended warranty but the dealer and service department have managed to get the cambelt also thrown in for free. The dealer also said this is a known issue also on Audi, Seat & VW. I learnt too the water pump is electronic unlike my previous Renault Clio which was timing belt driven.

Safety made the 6.5 mile journey to the skoda dealer and my cars now with them.

Last Saturday night, I noticed oil on my driveway (rainbow colour) also when I visited my local supermarket oil also in the car park by where I had parked, once I got home and car had cooled down, I checked engine oil level and it's low. The oil which i mopped up was leaking from the cambelt area. I've had no running issue, overheating or warning lights. I haven't driven the car this past week and it's booked in with Skoda next week. I've come across this same problem from other Skoda owners, including VAG brands VW, Seat and Audi. Please can someone tell me what is the common cause of this leak and the most likely culprit?

@KenONeill A hatchback version of any trim but a GTI or XSI 3 door would be nice, Petrol or Diesel don't mind. If an estate of a good example came along I may consider that but not a cabriolet. The 205 GTI is another all time Peugeot classic but their so rare now and demand massive prices.

Although I own a Skoda Fabia 2017 Monte Carlo when it comes to older cars, the Peugeot 306 is a definite favourite, such a nice looking car and without a doubt the best model Peugeot ever produced. It's 20+ years now since they stopped making them on 51/02 registration but there's still plenty alive and kicking on the road or on SORN despite, the fact they sold so well helped. The 307 is virtually obsolete but I do often still see 306's regularly.

Hi, I have a dashcam hardwired via a fuse tap like many other drivers (I now use the USB port below heater controls instead). It was almost 3 years ago I connected it to the fuse tap and had no issues whatsoever until very recently. I chose the blower as this was both switched live and only accessible area which I could fit tap into. The original fuse was 30amp and replaced in the original circuit slot and 2 amp for the dashcam (supplied with accessory kit). I'll never use fuse taps again ever! The cigarette socket is permanent live on most cars these days although I think Peugeot/Citroen (some models) have 2 positions for the fuse so either always live or switched, I maybe wrong. I know these taps are generally rated for 10amp maximum due to the 16awg gauge wire. The dashcam feed live and 2amp fuse all in tact along with the 30amp. I think maybe this was down to human error even though electronics is something I do regularly and it's very rare for me to make a mistake like this, I've had blown fuses before in personal projects but never melted nor melted wires. There is no damage at all to the cars wiring or anywhere else in the fuse panel, just that 1 slot for the blower fan. The ground black wire was attached to a solid screw point and tight with no damage to wire. The connector wasn't lose either and normal continuity. I'll have to get the fuse panel replaced by Skoda or a VW group specialist technician. The only damage was one side of the fuse tap. The red wire exited where you pull open fuse panel cover with fingers was run along below with cable ties into the 12v-5v regular which then has usb cable to dashcam. Could someone please tell what the most likely cause of this was: Live wire knocked during driving by knees maybe, especially while under large load (full blower/ac on) causing lose connection, maybe over time it caused a poor connection and developed slowly? Fuse tap failure and malfunction or too much load for the tap (the past 2 years of use with full blower with/without AC caused no issues till now)? The fuses are slightly melted on the same side but didn't blow or even get close upon inspecting them.

My Skoda Fabia Monte Carlo, 2017 DSG only very occasionally when driving will chime and ping up this message "DSG Fault (Error: workshop! - Only leave vehicle in position P)?" for a matter of a second or two then disappear. I've done research and this is quite common on VAG cars including Audi, VW & Seat alongside Skoda, some micro switch within the DSG shifter can stick/fail. Has anyone else had this issue also any VAG car technicians on here who have rectified this.

the scroll wheel on my 2017 fabia on the right hand side of the steering wheel which browses up and down through the driving data etc. has become defective, you have to keep spinning it to get it to work, the other side's control, the radio part for volume is fine, anyone else has this issue?

Hi fellow Skoda owners, I'd like to upgrade the bulbs in my fabia's headlights to a nice blue/white gold like xenon or led? as my car has led running lights, I would be nice to have the main beams as LED or Xenon. I've seen Xenon bulbs which are just like standard H7's with the 2 flat pins and also LED. However because of the reflector in-front of the dipped beams bulb would this be an issue with LED lamps or Xenons. Also are LED/xenon bulbs road and mot legal if aftermarket fitted within the original factory headlights - no modifications.