renton

Hi all, I know there are loads of threads on here about this and I've read most of them but all that has done is confuse me even more !! I have a 2018 Sportline hatch 220 petrol. It feels very wallowy compared to my previous Octavia VRS 245 and I would like to try and sort it out of possible. I dont want to lower the car as I sometimes go onto building sites with rough car parks and I also like how it looks at stock height. What I want to try and do it firm it up a bit (ok a lot) and try and control some of the wallowy and loose feeling it has. I've read so much about the Koni Special active dapmers being goof for this but then read they don't last long. Then I've read about Bilstien B6 being slightly firmer and good as an alternative. Plan is to keep the car for at least 3 years plus so dont mind spending on decent kit that will last. I think I also need to replace the top mounts at the same time as I have some slight low speed knocking at the moment too. What are peoples thoughts? are the SA lasting now or still an unknown quantity? Should I go for the B6? I reckon I can change the rears my self to keep cost down and then get someone to do the fronts? Any recommendations on top mounts to use? Thanks all.

Hi all, Recently picked up a 2.0 petrol sportline and for the best part I'm extremely happy with it. However I've noticed a knocking noise coming from the front of the dashboard area at low speed. I thought it may have been dry seals on the sunroof but Ive coated them and its made no difference. The car drives find and doesn't clunk coming on and off the drive. Its as though the car body is flexing and causing a knock somewhere? Anyone had similar?

Afternoon everyone. Just thought I'd pop a post up to say hi. Was on here for quite a bit a few year back when I owned two mk3 & mk3.5 Octavia VRS. I sold them due to moving into a company car which Im now losing due to moving jobs and have bought a 2018 Superb sportline 220 as my daily driver. Plan is to give it a good clean and maybe a stage one map at some point but no rush.

Yep me too. We have dunlop sport maxx rt2 all round on our other vrs

it is wearing 18"Geminis with two of the original Bridgestone potenzas which although are noisy I don't mind them as they are predictable. The rear two tyres were a Uniroyal rainsport 5 and a "davanti" Chinese ditch finder. Both of these are far to soft and just felt like they were folding over. Last night I went back to the tyre place and got them swapped for a pair of Pirelli P Zero Nero gt which has helped dramatically ! However as I said, to avoid incorrect tyre wear on the back I want t make sure that the car has the correct camber settings.

I've checked around the car and cant see any signs of repairs however it did have three wheels refurbed before sale so I just think its had a hard life. He had no issues getting it lined up so to me that states there is no chassis damage. I think my main concern is the rear camber. On the 68 plate its set to -1.18 whereas on my 16 plate is set at about -1.54 so quite a bit more. However I need to be able to confirm that what his hunter machine said was right.

Hi all, Recently collected a used 68 plate VRS 245 from a car supermarket and am having a few issues with wheel wobble and car pulling etc. I took it to my local tyre place and they stuck it on a hunter alignment machine and reset the geometry. It was quite a bit out in two corners and its helped massively. However, driving the car back to back with our other car which is a 2016 16 plate VRS 220 estate the new one doesn't feel as planted on the road and feels quite fidgety still and not as confident inspiring going round bends. On looking at the hunter print out I noticed he had set the car to have rough road suspension when it should have been sport suspension. I took it back and they adjusted just the toe in again to bring it inline but they never adjusted the rear camber. Comparing it to the 16 plate it seems the rear camber is set differently on newer models however I just wanted to find out if that is true or not. Does anyone have a printout of the suspension settings for their 17 onward 245. I believe the 245 has a wider rear axle so not sure if this is the reason? Many thanks Steve

Im quite interested in this as my 16 plate manual petrol is coming to the end of its term on the pcp. 16 plate in quartz grey, tinted glass but apart from that its standard. 37k on the clock and the dealer offered me 11600 for it so they dont seem to be holding the value either !

Ha unfortunately not ! It does sound like a top mount that's gone to me. Hopefully be covered under warranty as the car is still in that period.

Pre FL 220

Cheers, Ive got it booked into my local dealer as its still under warranty ! I thought i had seen a post and maybe even relied to it it about a similar issue that turned out to be a top mount failure.

My 16 plate vrs has developed quite a loud creaking/groaning that you can feel through the car when turning the steering wheel at low speeds and stand still ? Have any of you had this issue before and if so what was the cause ? Regards Steve

Smashing thanks for that, was speaking to Amy yesterday. Reading Skoda where the ones who left my seats unbolted when the car went in for new seat covers !!! Ive decided to give them another go ! Fingers crossed.

Hi, can I ask who you spoke to at Reading for this? My car is booked in with them for its third service and I too suffer with creaking when going lock to lock at slow speeds. Thanks