Stjepan

OBD is only powertrain diagnostic,dont even see modules like airbag,media,central electronic...only engine and SOME ABS,AUTOTRANSMISION.. thats all for 20$ diag.device Airbag ecu is always in midle od the car...DONT search for it BEFORE you have diagnostic report for it...even IF its broken there will be reported as internal fault or similar description..so diagnostic first

Hmmm..batery change have nothing to do with this,you can loose some comfort setting for windov or im some car batery management need to know capacity of batery...in youre case find reverse switch (2pin) conect them and see od there reverse lights..IF yes switch od faulty,IF NO then its not problem you can solve....run some diag Tool,they are cheap now

Somewhere on gearbox under airfilter box..2 wires switch Like somekind indicator...that switch send signal that you ste im revers so engage reverse light/test park sensor at once..oil sensor is more complicated device,sends signal for level,oil temperature some od them viscosity...run some diagnostic to see what is actual fault...and YES it is bolted on oil pan,so removal means oil out..

Reverse switch die

NOPE...Iam prety sure that temperature reading in dash is ONLY data from bumper senzor....AC intake temperature senzor have nothing to do with this display....maybe Iam wrong cause not a skoda expert..but most vw car work as I describe... electronic input in clima modul have some "window"..will try to explain on my tarzan english IF climamodul see that resistance is less then 600ohm it will display - 20 IF climamodul see that resistance is more then 2000 ohm it will display +45 that is working window for that modul..from 600 to 2000 ohm so if resistance is inside this 2 values climatronik means all is fine I can show some calculated values..for you its time to investigate..is value on display MORE then real or LESS then real when this hickups hapens..one wire to sensor is GROUND another is signal..if this signal wire somewhere rubs on chasis then it will ADD resistance so dispalyed value will be MORE ..IF conection is bad then display will show less..we dont speak about broken wire IF is broken then you will easy dtermine where..this is situation sometime... send me part number of climamodul..IF I have it I can send you for few days to test on youre car..but Iam sure modul is fine..Iam not telling you change blue/brown wire..just try to teach you how this crap in modern cars work..it is same story in all vw group

yep as I wrote wrong motor..that is reason why Iask for comfort test...hapens to me few times..wrong motor.. is there way to change sw in motor controler I realy have no idea..but on few golf5 I manage to change motor wires..remove that metal housing and look can you exchange position of 2 contact feed for motor.. you read somewhere that VCD can do that ?..well never try with vcp..next time for sure

same **** hapens to me few monts ago working on golf 5..related to motor version,I wasnt able to find original motor to fix it,coding didnt help to..Iam not sure is it UK /EU version of motor but some similar **** ...after few hours of fight I rewire the switches..IF you have schematic by hand you will see that for UP position there is resistance between pins forexample 120 ohm for DOWN position there will be 250 ohm..so change switches and all is fine..but you need to do it on both switches...just for test try comfort locking the car and keep key in locked position few seconds..does windovs go UP ?

after carefully reading I am still not sure are you talk about OUTSIDE temperature sensor ? ambient is internal cabin temperature but since you mention radiator fans I am prety sure you talk about outside..that sensor is in area of front bumper near left foglight or behind bumper space in front radiators..sometime senzor is fine wires are coroded...this outside temp.you can also see in engine ecu,in climatronic,in dashboard...dont have schematic on this laptop but I belive sensor is hardwired to climatronic only,but sensor value are spread out via CAN bus network to every modul who is interested..when you disconect clima modul you brake CAN comunication between modules so they reseted on first ignition ON status..I dont belive its CAN faults,you just need more time to investigate and compare temp.value of that sensor in ALL car modules..IF they are same then sensor and 2 wire from it are fine..but Iam prety sure its wire/conector/sensor itself..climatronic is modul in clean enviroment relativly stable temperature no reason for fault on measurins inputs...on the other hand sensor is in bumper,wires rubing on chasis,small ****y conector in weather conditions.....

Sory to disapoint you..but you dont have any chance to fix it..of course it CAN be this or that..or flat tyre..or....but comon.. this car is not so simple to repair it via phone call or some vudu magic..go and buy some tool..vag diagnostic is able to perform what ever you want (IF you know what you are doing).. so at least read codes from few systems related to your faults then we can talk about this...without diagnostic all our vudu magic is useless.. this BLACKBIRD post is very usefull..but you need to open few plastic parts around steerin wheeland read part numbers...OR buy tool and read it via obd socket.. regards

OK Iam glad that you folks from english native can understand my Tarzan eng.... short version of electric on cars... Voltage is always close to 12-14V..so we can say 12V curent we measure in Amps..IF we have 12 V and 2Amp then our POWER is 24 W ....Bulbs on car are standardized..we have 5,10,15,21 Wats bulbs...most leds are only few mA..like 0,10 A..so you need to foul electronic on car that you actualy surge more then this 0,1 or error lamp will shine..example on my Yeti (2012) Daytime runing lamps are integrated in foglamp..one bulb is for foglamp and another small 15W is daytime..nice looking chines LED with this type of socket ordered as CAN**** story..of course error lamp is ON..measuring curent on LED I discover that surge is 0.4 A,for 15 W (original) curent must be 1.2 Amp..so we have difernce of 0.8 Amp...we need to burn this 0.8 A somehow to foul car electronic ..again using Ohmlaw calculator we know that voltage is 12 V curent is 0.8 so calculator will say resistance should be 15ohm..now you need to buy one heavy resistor like this one and conect him in paralel to youre lamp...WOW nice job..one side finished..same on the other side of car...this principle use on every lamp what you want....also calculator will say how much power is disipated, in this example its about 9.5 W..so I select at least 10W or beter 20W resistor...why double ? this resistor will heat, so IF you select biger one he will be fisicaly biger ans easyer to disipate all heat coming from inside..its easy to mount in anywhere.. for me this is much beter solution then LED with integrated resistor inside led bulbs..resistors must burn curent so they will heat a lot..most solder will melt on 220-250 C so youre lamp will be alive untill all solder fell of..and stay in youre headlamp...this Aluminium resistor are bolted on chasis near headlight so who care let them heat outside air.. completly diferent story is electronic driver for LED lamps..but this Bulbs will have at least 3 wire..so you will find them on high end cars..not on our skodilacs IF still something not clear be free to ask we all learn in this proces

Ok will try to type slower😀..anyway for problems like this with bulbs and simple devices you can find App like OHM LAW CALCULATOR and just fill fields what you know then sw.will calculate all other values..simple as that.. Iam glad to help..this corona/covid make me crazy at home without customers problems..so I try here to stay in touch with my brain... regards!

look this scenario is not something new..we look at it from 2006 in so many cars..result always the same..for change oil in compresor of course you need to evacuate r134..remove compresor..clean it repair it do what you want...CHANGE dyer before filling new 134..dryer sometimes serve as filter too..on Octavia is bolted on Condeser left on car..condenser is first radiator what you see from grill

why my BAD ENGLISH or to tehnical ? IF its bad english sory iam from Croatia and english is not my primary..live in small country so I need to know few words of english few of german,italian,,and ****y french make me crazy... IF its tehnical...you need more to learn or buy some ready made like mr.Penguin say autobulbs...never see them but you are on diferent market...

of course you can repair chinese bulbs if you know what you doing..all my text is about ordinay lamps from flebay and most eu sellers sell same **** in diferent boxes..but you can make them right..look in calculation and will be easy.. guys that corona/covid killing me I dont work in my workshop soo search on froums who need some explanation and try to help...never heard about autobulbsdirect ..maybe folks repair chines led why not.. interior lamps mostly dont have any curent measurment so youl be fine with any of them,only few cars dont know how to turn OFF interior lamp IF you change them to LED..because LED power surge is so litle chip dont turn them off completly there is always few mA and LED is on 10-15% on all time..you can solder any resistor in range 470-680 ohm in paralel on bulb ynd youl be fine

wrong part number for part instaled....