wr6warren

Good morning, I have a 2007 VRS TFSI, its got 129k miles on it, 99% of the time it drives well, but every couple of weeks, usually on a hot start, I will have a continual misfire, sometimes for a minute, then yesterday it was for about 15mins, VCDS says cylinder 4 misfire, I get a flashing then continual engine light. After it has its wobble for a bit, it usually just recovers and then drives well for another couple of weeks, sometimes it recovers after turning off and on, others it just starts running on 4 again randomly. Plugs replaced, coils 3 and 4 swapped round but fault didn't follow, am I right in thinking the only thing left really is the fuel injector? What else can die in there, cause a continual misfire for several minutes, then recover and drive as normal for weeks? The car has never been walnut blasted as far as I'm aware, I do from time to time have a little shake to the idle, which seems to be cylinder 2 (watching live misfires on idle) Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

@VRS_White_Hatch Sorry updated my original post there, its definately something sticky, if I help it close (pulling it up as its closing) it will close fine. Im assuming something is rubbing/sticking on it with enough resistance for it to think theres something stuck in it.

Front right window is having this problem. I assume this is a safety feature of the window in case someone has their head out etc, I've cleaned around all the rubber seals I can see on the front and back of the window but no real difference. Is there any known remedies to this? Or a specific seal that's known to cause this sort of issue? I can get the window to go the whole way up if I do it in small steps or if I give it a helping hand! Thanks!

@MicMac One top mount is from 2017, the other was replaced a few months ago to see if it helped - No change. @PipH Both replaced last year in a previous episode of find the knock, no change, and they are mighty tight. Ive had a loose joint on a drop link before, this is a different noise. @Me-109 Ill need to price up my options, polybush sounds good though, the cars got 122k miles on it, sadly theres probably a lot of it needs freshened up :( Whatever it is its only able to knock under free wheel or very light braking, when Im accelerating or braking hard it tends to be ok, which is why I suspected it was likely the arm bushings. I strapped the camera to my other halfs Scirocco yesterday and drove it in the same way, I cant say theres any real difference in what I can see there, just no knock on hers! This is the bush on one side, both are similar, I can see it looks a little tired with some cracking, but is this done? Car is jacked up and wheel off the ground.

Between 20 and 30 seconds I was rolling slowly and lightly tapping the brakes, as I can hear the knock when doing this! Would you think the front bush is tired? Is that a lot of movement in it? I am tempted to just replace the whole arm-bushes-ball joint but sadly it’s reasonably expensive so want to be reasonably sure one of these things are my problem! my other half has a scirocco with the same sort of suspension setup, may strap the camera to it today and see how it compares being driven the same way

07 VRS TFSI Combi I’ve had a bad knock from the front end for some time now, not really noticeable when on the power, very noticeable coasting or under slight braking. Have had it jacked up and can see nothing too alarming. cable tied an old action camera to the wishbone this morning to see what state the console bush and front bushes were in, and I can see a lot of movement in the console bush. These were replaced in 2017, have done maybe 35k miles max. YouTube video attached..... at the start it’s just leaving the house, round a few corners, then I’m rolling at a couple mph just taping the brakes lightly as this will slow the knock. Then built a bit of speed then stop. my question is, is this too much movement..... should I replace them regardless? https://youtu.be/Bg-eUogR6BI

Just about to try this myself. I was watching a tutorial by "autodoc" on YouTube, seems to be a big reputable site, but they have the rear bolt torqued up to 143nm. That's a hell of a difference to what is in that guide! Is 180nm+180deg definitely right?

Good morning, I have a fairly bad knock coming from the left hand side of my 2007 Octy VRS TFSI, in 2017 the car had new struts, top mounts, console bushes and drop links fitted, ive had a good go with a pry bar on the bushes and arb bushes but everything seems ok so far as I can tell. Its a knock rather than a rattle, and it does it over sharp bumps, even very tiny ones. Can get it to make the sound when rolling slowly 5-10mph and tapping the brake pedal. My main quesion is, when I have the car jacked up, wheel off, then apply a jack to the arm to lift it up again I probably have about 5-6mm of vertical movement in the top of the damper shaft (looking from above at the top of the top mount). I know theres a few bushings etc in the top mount but is that sort of play normal? Many thanks, Warren.

Morning, Sadly my issue still remains, I had the map taken off the car and its largely been fine up until recently but the issue is starting to creep back in. Just got a snippet of the log file from before incase this helps spark any ideas. Blue is a normal pull, green is where I shift then yellow is where the issue lies, I did not remove my foot from the throttle. Any sort of ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Have sent them a message, cheers!

Sorry for the thread revival, but did you ever resolve this? Having a very, very similar issue myself.

Though doubting it already, the ones you have linked me to are all 307mm length and the one I’ve bought is 330mm

That’s a fantastically detailed response, thanks so much! Will have to give it a measure when I’m home to see if it has sagged at all, I’ve owned quite a few cars and none of them have felt quite as messy as this one has loaded up, its the only estate I’ve had too, I’d have thought they’d be better designed for it too! I actually went ahead and bought some Bilstein shocks, Sachs springs and new bump stops, all marked as for sports suspension. Paid a little bit more to get their hassle free returns too incase none of it fits properly. So we shall see......

Thanks guys, the fronts have been replaced just before I bought the car with a Sachs setup so not looking to change them just yet, rears are original with 113k on them so far as I can sell from the history. Il have a look on auto doc for parts, not a website I’ve ever used before! The rear, even with 2 normal sized adults and nothing in the boot seems to bottom out very easily and bounces more than I’d like, is that normal for one of these? The entire rear suspension does look knackered, the springs have lost a good bit of their black coating and are mostly rust, I do think I’d just like to replace the lot. It’s also very crashy, I have a Boxster as well and I would consider its ride to be considerably more comfortable. It seems pretty normal to see stuff like this (just an eBay ad in this case), but the 2.0 RS is in the list of vehicles that it fits, then below it says it will not fit sports suspension. Is this just a case of will it physically fit - yes, but is it right - no.

Good morning, As in the title I have a 2007 Octavia VRS TFSI Estate, and the rear suspension is just old and well past its use-by date. When its loaded up at all its just bouncy and horrible. My usual motor factors is struggling to pin point what it is I need, and I just have a couple of questions for anyone in the know! - Are the VRS springs different than standard (I see a lot of ebay listings that seem to think they arent) - Are the dampers the same as standard I'm just struggling to find any sort of solid info, have read posts that say they are the same, 15mm lower, 30mm lower etc I just dont know what to believe! Not looking to go down the lowering route as I enjoy my country roads and do have a decent bit of weight in it from time to time! Many thanks, Warren.

Good morning and hello! My first post on here so hopefully its in the right place! Just looking a bit of help/advice on a boost issue I'm having, car is a 2007 2.0 tfsi with a bluefin map, all standard otherwise and has been flawless for the year I've had it until now but I'm having an issue now with the boost not coming back after a quick gear shift. e.g - If im in 3rd, apply a generous amount of throttle up to about 3500-4000rpm then quickly shift into 4th and reapply, there will be next to no boost until I throttle off and slowly press again. Sometimes it will feel dead for a second or 2 then the boost will snap back into life and full power. If driving in a more relaxed fashion just pressing through the gears it seems fine. I've had it logged while driving, fuel pressure seems spot on throughout, but the requested boost doesnt match actual. (Think it was about 10-12psi lower than requested when its playing up) DV has now been changed, with no difference, just finding it hard with finding anyone else with my specific issue, most are either permanent boost drop (like torn DV etc) or drops due to fuel pressure. Next up going to check MAF, PCV and N75 will be replaced. Have also read that sticky/torn turbo actuators can play a part here. It does feel like it is some sort of valve that isnt closing when its supposed to under demanding circumstances. Any help/tips/pointers would be greatly appreacated. Thanks! Warren.