MKOK

After reading a bit I think I’ll see if a wire has broken where the cable goes through the tailgate. Google searches for diagrams or even how it works are not revealing g anything. I don’t even know if the switch trips a relay first. Anyone know? Cheers

Can I get a wiring diagram from anywhere?

Thanks. yes I know it’s mechanical only, as I just physically shove the lever. With the testing I’ve done then I suspect it is either. Broken wire back from switch. I suspect not though as I have 12v and the other is earthed. If there is a relay involved then that is faulty. Software related so I’ll take a look at the locking settings. It’s got to be worth a go. software related where something has crashed. Is there a way to do a reset? Thanks

I removed the switch and tested it indoors and it worked fine. I put it back in circuit and tested from the back of the connector and when the switch was depressed it went from 12v to 0v which I would expect connecting the two together. I tested to earth and between the 4 terminals on the lock and no matter what combination when I pressed the switch nothing changes. Since there are two 12v lines going to the lock I tested between them and got 0v as expected as no potential difference but even with the switch closed this didn’t change as did nothing on any of the other terminals. I’m a bit lost without a diagram now. Could it be software since that allows it to work? I looked through the fuses in the manual and can’t see an individual one for the boot. I’d expect there to be no power to any of the connectors though if that was it.

I tried to have a look today and managed to measure on the pins to the switch zero and 12v and on the 4 pins to the lock/servo 2 with 12v and 2 with zero volts. I had to go out then. I tried a short across the cable to the switch 2 pins but that didn’t work although the door was open already so maybe it wouldn’t. I struggled a bit on my own as it’s not easy to hold the door half open. I want to put my meter across the switch while someone operates it to see if I get a short. The switch is nicely sealed in so no point in removing it until I test in situ which is something I failed to be able to do on my own. My wife is here tomorrow so she should be able to help.

I’ll have to take it apart to get to it tomorrow if it stops raining as I don’t have a garage although I do have a multimeter. Cheers

Ok so that worked. I wonder what could have gone then? I suspect I’ll have to remove the cover and see if it’s the switch. It is quite odd as my old Astra played up for ages before the switch eventually failed. This worked perfectly all the time and then just failed. No warning at all. I take it the switch just touches two contacts together so I should be able to simulate that to prove if it’s the switch?

Thank you. I feel a bit stupid as I looked in my manual at locking an d unlocking but missed the next page in the index regarding emergency procedures. So figure 174 in the online manual and it us in mine as well figure 195. Off to try now. Thanks again 🙂

Hi all. I’ve searched all over but can’t find a way to manually open the boot of the mkiii. It stopped opening today. It opened as normal when I got out and when I came back nothin. There is no click and it won’t open with the key or the internal switch. When I press the boot button there is no noise at all. There is a video on YouTube but that is a mkii and not the same. On mine there is a hole on the plastic part above the latch but I dare not poke around too much in case I break something. so anyone how do I release the catch so I can at least check it out in case something is jammed in although nothing is visible from the inside or out. Thanks

I think the battery is ok as the engine still stops when I stop at lights etc and the light never comes on when I’m stationary. I’m going to get a full service in a couple of weeks with plugs and filters and I’ll get the battery checked at the same time. I really hope it’s not the cat!! Cheers just adding my usual trips are around 10 miles so maybe 20 miles a day. I do however do the 240 mile round trip every two weeks so you would think that gives it a blast out.

I’ve had it Skoda serviced all the way except for the last oil service. A service is due next month. I haven’t noticed a problem with the shocks so far but I’m guessing a few things will turn up now my mileage is getting higher. By the way my fuel consumption is not going up, it ticks over fine, pulls fine and runs smoothly. I don’t really want to go to main dealers. It almost feels like they program in something like this to get you back lol.

So it’s been doing this for a few months now. The garage I go to have been resetting it for me and then trying to work out what is causing it as there are no other codes. The car runs fine. It’s done 61k miles and is probably due a service soon. The last service it had was earlier this year which was an oil service only. The car is t nagging for a service or counting down yet. every other week I do a round trip of about 250 miles. A couple of weeks ago I went near London on a 200 mile trip and then back a couple of days later. Again no problem. We have physically checked pipes and cables to the sensors. No hissing noises present. Once into October I’m looking at getting a full service with plugs and filters. I suspect it is a misfire that I’m not hearing or feeling as surely after a reset it would trigger quite fast if there was an obvious problem but it’s not. It can be weeks. As I said it’s anything g from 500 to a thousand miles before it triggers again.

I’m also getting this code now with the engine light. If I reset it it tends to be about 500 to 1000 miles before it triggers again. The car seems to be running fine. It’s odd that it doesn’t trigger after being reset. So it seems to be intermittent. Any clues without me going to a Skoda main dealer and being charged a fortune?

I’ve just changed my battery for my Fabia remote and also for my spare key. Last time was about 6 months ago. Both keys were working then. The spare key is not working now even with a new battery. It won’t unlock the car. Anyone had this or can suggest something. The old battery hasn’t leaked and when I put it in my main key it had a little bit of life in it. what can go wrong with the remote keys?