croquemonsieur

Thanks for that comment, it encorages me to seek 2nnd and 3rd opinions. LV my insurance company use the well advertised Autoglass crew.

I'd appreciate any advice. I noticed a chip on my windsreen passenger side, a week or 2 ago and today got around to making enquiries with LV. The phone call was in the end automatically passed to Autoglass. Measured today, the actual chip is about 1mm diam, but there is a horizontal crack extending 4mm either side and a vertical crack extending 4mm up from the chip. Both these cracks are internal within the glass interlayer structure and can't be felt on the inside or outside glass surface (only the tiny chip on the outside is felt). The Autoglass lady said they can only do chips bigger than 3mm and so I need a new screen @ £95 excess. If necessary I'll have to go for that ultimately, but it seems drastic and would rather not subject the car to such invasive action, needing resetting of sensors etc., which Autoglass do say they will do. I'm wondewring if her statement is true, or is it more money for them at the expense of, mainly, the insurance company. I could see if there are other windscreen repairers around and ask for their assessments. I'm inclined to leave the crack alone for now and see if it gets much worse or stabilises - is this a sensible approach on my part does anyone think.

Ah. I've noticed that you can get a single map with all Europe including GB, Scandinavia & Iceland and that requires a minimum 32GB SD card -- ECE A1 2023/2024, which is what I'd now like to go for, but I see that's more or less how that 2020 thread started off.

Yes thanks Tom, mine is an Amundsen (1.0 SE Tech DSG reg end Jul 2019) - that thread from 2020 must be where I began to get nervous, noting that you must use the existing Skoda SD card + the other complications mentioned. However, the TransCity man said that any decent SD card should work and it's all pretty easy - maybe things have changed recently or has my service man got it wrong. My current Skoda maps SD card is in slot SD1, presumably that's where the replacement or updated existing card must go too, or does it matter? Also I couldn't see anything in the 2020 thread about what happens to 'My Destinations' and where they are stored + whether 2 maps for different European regions can be stored on one 32GB SD.

My satnav stopped working a while ago and ICT & electrickery generally not being my most accomplished skills, I did nothing about it until phoning ftoday or my 4th year service MOT etc. in mid July. The service chap there was as helpful as usual and said that likely the SD card at the top of the glovebox needs pushing into the slot again - and he was right, voila, satnav is back. I talked about updates and he said that this is also easy even for punters like me to do, just get a new an SD card and go to https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/en-GB and enter the VIN number. Sure enough a choice of maps came up and I would like the ones with UK and central Europe ECE 1 2023/2024 and ECE 3 2023/2024. I assume I can load the 2 maps onto the one SD card, but as each map suggests 16GB min SD card capacity, I expect I should go for a 32GB card. I'm now wondering if I'll lose my chosen stored destinations - are they kept on the card or elsewhere in the car, can anyone help please? Also can I use either slot for the new SD card containg the updated maps. I recall messages here from a few years ago about needing to use the SD card that came with the car + other downloading omplications, but the service man at TransCity said I can use any new decent quality card of appropriate size. It all seems too easy.

I meant to say that there were costlier more upmarket 1.0 DSG SELs available at the time too and I tried one that had 18" wheels so the ride was not quite as good as the SE on 17" wheels + you couldn't get adaptive cruise control, but instead got some sort of leather seats which I didn't want, but it did have the removeable rear seats. I did want these at the time, but now rather glad I've got the fixed rear seats instead as this arrangement with the solid parcel shelf suffers from less road noise even before sound damping is added at the rear.

The 1.0 used to be available with DSG, but not now for almost 4 years, which is a shame. I was told I bought the last one to be imported into UK, and had it registered at the end of July 2019. I was going to hang on to my previous 1.2 DSG Yeti for another 2 years, but then began to hear rumours about the 1.0 DSG Karoq being discontinued and I'd already decided I wanted that engine & gearbox. There were quite a few SE DSG ex dealer demonstrators around at the time at very reasonable prices, but I wanted the as much of the latest technology as I could get, while sticking with the 1.0. I would have ordered all sorts of extra goodies but I'd missed the boat by then and could only get a standard SE Tech, but I didn't have to wait long. In those days you could beat down the new price of ordinary SEs, but not SE Techs, which were strangely advertised at the same price as the ordinary model and did come with some very useful extra goodies like adaptive cruise control, sat nav (not working at present for some reason or other) and front parking sensors + I had a rear camera and mud flaps fitted by the dealer. The only finish they had was the most expensive red metallic, so I forked out and it does look good. Although I've posted about some niggles here before, I do very much like the car - very quiet now with AW tyres on 16" wheels and extra sound damping at the rear and it performs surprisingly well and with good economy.

Ah, yes of course Toot. I suspect the 1.0 is, nor ever was, built with the Eco mode facility, as it's only available in lower spec Karoq versions.

Interesting Tom. My car is a lowly SE Technology DSG, so doesn't have Eco mode facility, although in some ways the Normal Drive mode seems fairly Eco in it's behaviour - e.g. tries to stay in as high a gear for as long as possible. But maybe that softer response you describe in Eco mode means that remapping the throttle response, via say OBDEleven, wouldn't necessarily upset the way the factory throttle response interacts with DSG settings in my car. Anyway, presumably the default throttle settings could be rest via OBDEleven, if things didn't work out.

In another thread, I was also recently promoting the use of the e-Brake rather than Autohold when stopped at say traffic lights as I thought it made for slightly smoother take off from stanstill. However, after a couple of forgetful times after applying the e-Brake a bit too soon, when the car hadn't quite stopped at traffic lights, thus bringing the vehicle to a sudden and uncomfortable halt, I'm having 2nd thoughts. Maybe there isn't much in it for smooth getaways, but I do wish the throttle pedal was a bit less fierce, so one didn't have to be so delicate with the right foot. Still wondering about having the throttle accordingly remapped. I am still trying to use the e-Brake once there are cars directly behind me, but I must admit that there is less to think about and fewer operations to perform if one just leaves the car Autohold switched on all the time in a car with DSG.

I think that Continental are bringing out a new AW tyre soon as well.

One thing I found with Cross Climates (original versions) fitted to my previous Yeti, was that the finer patterns in the tyre picked up lots of small stones - difiicult & too numerous to remove and were audible on the move inside the car. Of course this may not apply to more recent X climate versions I certainly haven't noticed this so far with the Hankook AW tyres I recently fitted to the Karoq. Mind you, the Yeti interior tended was less insulated from outside noises, particularly from the front wheels - I always used to hear noise from the brake pads when applying the brakes (don't hear this in the Karoq).

Sorry for the delay, but referring to Surrey John's longer message last Saturday, where he said that nearly all AW tyres are directional, I too found this to be so, when reearching this recently. I also found that all current production tyres I came across were XL rated - i.e. extra strong sidewalls, which is good for robustness, but makes the ride somewhat harsher. The only tyres that may not have been XL that I came across on the MyTyres site, were some left over previous generation Goodyear Vectors, still available there. I actually decided to change my Karoq summer Turanzas on my Karoq that were wearing - to Hankook AW tyres + changing wheels from 17" 7J to 16" 6J in the process (these tyres were recommended in the Auto Express link that is included in JohnArm's message yesterday - also recommended in other reviews though said likely to wear faster than most). They are definitely quieter and more comfortable, but the slight rubbery firmness of the Turanza suspension is still there to a lesser extent, with some modest crashing /rumble over broken road surfaces, of which there are a lot right now. I see in 'Which' (I recall) they reckon the Merc B clsss is considered one of the best riding of the fairly modestly priced upright cars - must try one soon to see how it compares with mine. The Karoq already the quietest car I have ever owned (included BMW 5 series and Saab 9-5 in the past) is now pretty good as far as road noise is concerned, but whether it's as good as the renowned Jag XJ6 used to be, difficult to say. Handling if anything is even sharper than with the summer Turanzas that were on the larger wheels and economy certainly no worse (actually the other slight down side in the reviews), but I'll report some more on this aspect later when the warm summer weather always gives the best economy. So all in all a good upgrade to the car.

Yes Toot in D with e-brake on in a- 1.0 DSG. I thought I said why I preferred using the e-brake - smoother starting from standstill and the rear brake lights don't glow red - though I know I'm being fussy. After mostly keeping clear of Autohold in the 1st 2 years, along with stop/start, I did start to use botht for a while until a few months ago, when I changed over to my current e-brake proceedure - but who knows what I'll be doing next year - makes life interesting. It has crossed my mind to look into getting the throttle response remapped so it's less fierce and then I might be tempted to using autohold all the time, if that became significantly smoother, never mind the rear brake lights issue. However I'm worried that doing this remapping might upset the way the engine and DSG interact - presumably Skoda did a lot of development work getting them working together well. I don't know if anyone has actually done this type of remapping successfully with a DSG - been talked about here very occasionally.

Correct Toot. I sometimes keep the engine running if I think the wait is going to be short at lights or junctions, but if I anticipate the wait will be longer at traffic lights or in traffic jams (I'll call this situation 2 - generally I know from experience how long traffic lights will keep me stopped in my locality), I turn on stop/start as I come to a halt - I apply the E-Brake when just stopped in both situations. I generally wriggle the steering wheel in situation 2 when I see the traffic lights beginning to change to green, so as to prestart the engine leading to a smoother take off. Sounds complicated but keeps me a bit more alert on the road & to my mind still much easier & less effort than dealing with a non autohold manual car when stopped and have to start again soon after.

Is that by way of explaining the slight smoother take-off I experience Toot. On the other hand, when wanting to be stationary, say at lights, I do find the e-Brake easily holds the car still anyway. it just requires me to press the e-Brake button the instant I've just stopped (not a moment before mind you - or the car then dramatically screeches to a halt), whereas Autohold does apply the brakes for you automatically without having to think about it.

Nottslan, when moving off, I wonder whether you're assuming I release the E-Brake by pushing the e-Brake button, before depressing the throttle. If that's what you think, I don't actually do this when at traffic lights, I just press the throttle pedal and this releases the E-brake automatically, just as I would if using Autohold, except as I said before, the take off is just a bit smoother. This E-brake release feature is yet another thing I picked up from here, actually only an few months ago, 3+ years after owning the Karoq - I really do continue to appreciate this site. I do actually manually release the hand brake first and let the car creep a moment if moving off in a non 'competitive' situation with no traffic around, say from home. Then taking off is really gentle as long as I'm careful with that somewhat fierce throttle. I do hope the creep doesn't cause significant clutch wear though. It anyway always takes me 3 or 4 years to get really get used to a car - couldn't go along with changing annually or even every 2 years, as some do. I always considered I got rid of my Yeti prematurely after 4.5 years. Just got a bit fed up with the rubbery firm & somewhat crashy ride and was rather impatient to change it for the much smoother Karoq, but liked the Yeti in many other ways, particularly the handy compact dimensions with particularly good visibility - that was another thing amongst many aspects that I disliked about the Juke I had temporarily last year - poor visibility when trying to park., made worse by lack of transmission creep. I got really fed up with that car after only a short period and it was a big relief to get my Karoq back, with its much more upmarket feel.

Nottslan & Modders. With Autohold, the brake cerainly releases instantly, but maybe that's the issue. The throttle, even on my 1.0 DSG, is rather sensitive when taking off from rest, Autohold or no Autohold - in fact smoother starts are easier if the car is first allowed to start to creep away. If needing to take off fast, whatever the choice of brakes at standstill, I do find I have to think twice so as not to push the peddle down too far - my previous Yeti was the same. That's in comparison with most non-VAG DSG conventional auto cars I've had in the past, where the throttle is far gentler at the start of the action. My 2.0 Saab 9-5 auto of some years ago was a model of how to do smooth starts, particularly when wanting to get away quickly, say turning right into a busy road. The Karoq doesn't compare well in this regard, though overall I do think the it is a somewhat better car than the Saab. In reviews, non-smooth starting from standstill is sometimes mentioned as the main downside with VAG DSGs, though in other regards the gearbox action is favourably commented on. I did have to drive a new model Juke with DSG last year for a month or two, while my car was being repaired following a minor bump. Actually start off from standstill was significantly jerkier than with the Karoq, not helped by the fact there was no inbuilt creep in the transmission, so maybe this slightly jerky behaviour is an inherent characteristic with all DSGs. If using the E-brake I can only think that the front wheels power off momentarily before the E-Brake releases and play in the suspension slightly stretches the wheelbase before the car moves off, maybe smoothing things a little, but that's only conjecture and it may wrar the suspension bushes (weren't Morris 1100s of many years ago notorious for this stretching action - front wheels trying to tear the car in half if the handbrake wasn't released quickly). Whilst writing, the brake light staying on with Autohold could be illegal, or at least can be annoying to a driver at standstill behind - this has been discussed here before. I don't think the brake lights come on when using the e-brake. On the other hand, it has been suggested in the situation where there's no-one behind when stopped at traffic lights, having the brake lights can be a useful warning to cars maybe coming up too fast behind, a second or two later - if I'm feeling particularly conscientious, I occassionally do use Autohold in that situation. Tried to keep this as short as possible - honest.

Nottslan - when you talk about the handbrake, presumably you are referring to the E-Brake. I understood from past posts that as with Autohold, say when the car is sitting idling at traffic lights, activating the E-Brake also disengages the clutch on a DSG car. I stand to be corrected though, if you know differently, but that's what I've sometimes been trying recently, as moving off then seems a bit smoother than when using Autohold.

Yes you're right about the DSG. It does generally when in Standard Drive Mode, want to be in as high a gear as it can get away with and as soon as possible, even on the overun going downhill and I can't at the moment think when the car might be in on a light throttle at 2500rpm. Perhaps sometime I should try using the manual gear change mode to see if I can replicate your squeal, but for me that would be learning new tricks. I find standard Drive Mode + just so very easily slipping into Sport Mode, when wanting to overtake or go on steeper uphills, covers all driving situations.

Are these manual or DSG 1.0 TSIs. Don't know if the following comments are useful, but here goes. I've not noticed any such squeal in my 2019 1.0 SE Tech DSG, but I am 74, no doubt a bit of high treble loss. However, as a hifi enthusiast, I reckon my hearing is pretty good for my age, even though I do need to get my ears microsuctioned every so often and in fact just had them dome again 2.5 weeks ago. My hearing feels odd following the treatment - in fact super-sensitive in the treble that might just highlight any squeal for me. The hearing gradually returns to normal over 2 weeks. I do get a little high pitch tinnitus sometimes and that might possibly mask any modest engine squeal. I am actually rather finnicky about noise in cars, particularly road noise which I find wearing, not that my Karock was ever bad in this respect, but I've taken several measures to reduce this over the years, the latest being changing to AW tyres. I'd have thought any such noise reduction measures would bring a squeal into prominence, but not as far as I can hear and I do detect the engine & wind noise just a fraction more, now things are quieter elsewhere. Not that that worries me, the engine was virtually inaudible before & wind noise never bad.

Hello Carlston I want to get a full diameter space saver for my Karoq, so very interested in your post. The 135/80R18 space saver tyres shown on camskill don't seem to be directional, so that's ideal. ## Would that tyre need to be pumped up to the very high pressure that the standard supplied small Skoda space saver requires, or would it be OK at 32psi, like I run the 4 main tyres on my car? On to the wheels and maybe I'm doing something wrong, but I couldn't get any of the indicated wheel links to come up in the LLLparts website ## Are both those suggested wheels 18" or is the first one a typo and should be shown as a 17" wheel. ## Presumably the ET25.5 clears all the suspension & brake bits near the Karoq hub. ## I assume those wheels are fairly lightweight, not like the built-like-a-tank space saver from an old Golf, I currently have in the boot. Regards

The 215/60R16 Hankook AW tyres fitted to a 6Jx16 steel rims arrived today, all properly balanced, from Germany - MyTyres. I went for the slightly more expensive silver steel wheels that are meant to look like alloys, but.... not sure they look any better than the ordinary black ones, but got some ideas for improving their appearance - more later incl photo of the new wheels. Early days yet & I'll give them time to bed in before giving a final running verdict. They were fitted this afternoon and pumped up to 2.2bar. At the moment, the improvement in ride over the 17" Turanza fitted alloys is not as much as I might have expected. I still feel road ridges through the steering, though not as pronounced & there is less accompanying thump. Mind you I thought the 17" Turanzas rode pretty well, in spite of what many say here. The Hankooks are definitely quieter, on average & course surfaces (including importantly at low frequencies) & should be noticeably more relaxing on motorways, when I venture out there in a week or two. Surprisingly, the steering if anything is a bit sharper than before (feels nice) and the car feels just as stable, but I'm not the type to go pushing cars to the limit on corners.

Thanks for that Root and particularly the link. The non round pulleys sound weird, sort of elliptical I suppose. I've got to contact my dealer about the 3 year service / warranty extension plan and will then ask at what age / mileage cambelt replacement is recommended for the 1.0. I imagine mine's years away yet, as only done 21,000miles in 3.5years.

"I think the 1.5tsi uses the Atkinson / Miller cycle where intake valves are held open longer, which means more of a faff to set it accurately, especially with the helix cams used to switch out (hold open) valves on 2 cylinders." Going back a few messages now, I don't think that is so, SurreyJohn. There is an Atkinson/Miller cycle version of the 1.5 that produces less power - 133hp I believe - that appears in some VAG models, but not in any Karoqs or other Skodas that I'm aware of. However willing to be corrected. The latest 1.0 in the Karoq, reduced in power to 110hp, is claimed to be Atkinson/Miller cycle (or maybe just partially so in view of the still relatively high power output of that small engine). "There are more stories where others have screwed up with 1.0TSI timing belt changed. " Root, what did you mean by that statement? Is the 1.0 cambelt change as equally difficult and expensive to do as the 1.5?