Kirky2k2

Cheers I'll have a play around with the values in there. Didn't know what they were for so didn't want to go messing around with them. Any idea what they mean and actually do? I suppose I can always change the values back to either 0 or 100. Assuming 127 is to get even higher brightness? As for if they are dimmable, I don't know. These are what I bought for the front indicators: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126166991493?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=dImh1dO5TK-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=bHdjqKF6SvC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY And these are the rears: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155412150271?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=gjx61hbfrx2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=bHdjqKF6SvC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY And yes, they are different types for the front vs the rear. I know crazy right. Simply clever my.......

Hi all, I've just swapped out my front and back indicator bulbs for leds. Horrible job but glad I did it. All coded via odb11 to 6 LED Lichtmodul and while I'm pleased with the results, the brightness of the leds is making me conscious of other drivers and dazzling them particularly at night. I wanted to know if there is anyway to reduce the brightness of the front and back indicators? I think I need to be looking on 16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9 Indicator rear left And 17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3 Indicator rear right Need help finding the front left and right indicators as my German isn't great There are several dimmwert values in here and I've played around with a few but none of them seem to do anything. I've changed the values from 0-127 trying values like 50 60 etc thinking it might be 50% brightness and 60% etc but am I looking in the wrong place? Thanks in advance for the help.

No, can't afford that, the bloke that did it for me said I'd need to put 99 octane fuel in to get the full 300bhp but since I'm a cheap skate I only ever put 95 in I'm probably not getting the full 300. yes and I know what your going to say I've only got his word for it that anything's been done (and the print off) and its not just placebo but it does feel different and I'm happy so...

If you are interested, I had it done a few weeks ago. Thought I'd give it a while to "bed in" and see how much difference if any there was. I can confirm yes, there is a difference but only if you put your foot down. I'd say, anything up to 1/4 of the way down on the gas its no different, but after that when you give it the beans it really pulls. Puts me and my passengers right back in their seats now haha. Went from 230BHP to 300 and from 350NM to 440. Happy with the results so far.

I get it, I COULD take my car to R-tech or similar, pay hundreds for them to give my car a once over, plonk it on the dyno both before and after and see the results but I'm not after that. I WAS going to ask a local mobile re-mapper to come to my house and remap my car for me whilst it sits on the drive, this is what has led me to do a bit of research on the subject and I've discovered that I could do it myself on the cheap if I were to somehow obtain the gadget that plugs into my ODB port and then obtain software that tunes the ECU. This should be simple enough for the technically minded out there like me who have done a bit of tinkering via VCDS or OBD11 etc. That was the point in this thread EG to try and discover if it is possible or if someone has any experience of using these gadgets that are out there to flash a stage 1 (or higher) map on to their car, specifically an Octavia VRS MK3 as all the videos on YouTube that I've seen are either American or for doing Golf/Polos etc. If not I'll close this thread and I'll pay the mobile guy the £250 to come and do it while it sits on my drive. Cheers

Why? I'd be using a car battery charger to keep the battery topped up - the whole process only takes 10 minutes to flash the ECU via the ODB port? I really begrudge paying someone hundreds of £££s to do that when I can do it myself.

Hi all, I'm toying with the idea of going to stage one. There's loads of options and I've phoned around a few places and I've been quoted between £200 / £500 to do it. I've watched loads of videos on youtube and there are people doing it them selves using Bluetooth ODB port gadgets that download a map and send it straight to your phone etc One I came across was this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385813632701?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=385813632701&targetid=1814673647222&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9046413&poi=&campaignid=19089547614&mkgroupid=142438599285&rlsatarget=pla-1814673647222&abcId=9303859&merchantid=6995734&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxuCnBhDLARIsAB-cq1p07hXxmN1xtgDQW7gFFuubOKZityDP_S6tjp6sJJeecFO9W7TlfjYaAu4REALw_wcB It appears to only be for VW and Audi cars though Does anyone know if there is something similar for Skoda cars? I'd like to have a go at turning my car myself using an off the shelf map as I think it might be a bit cheaper than taking it somewhere and getting someone to do it for me or even getting a mobile re-mapper to come out to me etc. I'm comfortable doing it as I have used VCDS to enable/disable loads of bits and pieces on my car already. Cheers

yes, I found that thread but I have absolutely no idea what it's on about. I think it assumes one is an electrican and one knows what one is doing (Hint I am not and do not). If its more complicated than just simply moving a fuse's position, I'll just live with it always on, thanks.

Hi all,ive got a 2016 octavia vrs mk3 and I don't like how the 12v sockets are always on. I've read that I can change the position of a fuse behind the glove box so that the 12v sockets only come on with the ignition. I've also read this is only true in vw and seat cars and skoda cheaped out and made it so this cannot be done. Does anyone know for certain if I can or cannot move the fuse so the 12v sockets only come on with the ignition? I want to know for sure before I go to the trouble of getting the glove box out of the way as I've seen on YouTube it's looks very fiddly. If I cannot change the position of the fuse, is there another way to change it so they only come on with the ignition? Thanks

Sussed it This is the video that showed me how to fix it. Only difference is I was able to do the same thing via VCDS. So now I can use apple car play and android auto in my car and its actually quite good. I'm really pleased with myself that I've been able to do it and save myself £150. Not to mention all the other changes I've made via VCDS.

I'm back. Happy to report, I've successfully upgraded my MIB2 infotainment system to MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0253T from MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0245T. It was dead easy, no idea why I put it off for so long. The only change I've noticed is the bluetooth seems to connect a lot quicker to my phone now whereas it used to take a good few seconds before, this could be placebo though so not really too sure. I used a Kingston 16GB class 10 micro sd card with full sd card adapter to do the firmware update then I used a bog standard class 4 8GB micro sd card to install the toolbox. After the firmware upgrade, which took 10 minutes in total with 3 or 4 reboots, I activated green screen developer mode via vcds then I installed the MIB2 standard toolbox. It all went OK, the only thing I got wrong was the GEM version in my car being 3.5 which meant I had to overwrite some cpu files on the root of the sd card to get the scripts to run. I then ran the patch tsd.mibstd2.systemSWAP and generate EL It all went ok and one reboot later I can now activate smart link without it demanding I take my car to my dealer to get an activation key. Fantastic or so I thought until I tried to connect my android smart phone using a USB cable. It tries to connect and even knows what phone I'm trying to use - I've tried my Samsung S20 Ultra and my wife's Mi 10T Lite both do exactly the same thing: "connection will be established via mirrorlink the device can no longer be used as a source in 'media'" it will do that for 10 to 15 seconds then it will say "unable to connect mirrorlink is not supported by the mobile device" I also do not have android auto and apple car play logos on the welcome to smartlink screen - I only have mirror link available. Help appreciated. Dan

Can someone tell me exactly how to update the firmware? Is there a documented process anywhere? What I'm after is someone who has done one before. I have got a 16GB SD card that I've formatted to FAT32 and I know I need to move the update files on to that but what I don't know is if I have to unzip the file or not? I'm going from P0245 to P0253 I'd also like to read the release notes for P0253 so I can find out what was fixed vs P0245.

Cheers, I'll make a written tutorial and post it here once I've done it So far I think the steps are: 1. Enable developer mode - simple enough just use VCDS go to 5F infotainment > enter security access > go to adaptation > search for dev > set to enable 2. Install the toolbox, download the zip from github and extract to sd card, follow the above youtube guide 3. use the toolbox to enable smartlink, apple car play and android auto The only bit I'm not sure about is the MIB FEC/SWaP Code side of things, looking at the youtube videos, a code isn't needed. I'll let you know how I get on

cool so that is a tutorial on how to use the toolbox to enable smartlink, now I just need a tutorial on how to install the toolbox

Cheers, I've just done some googling and it doesn't look straight forward... so you download the toolbox software to an sd card but you need to enable green menu first? Then once toolbox is installed you can somehow enable smartlink? Someone should put a tutorial together...

I'm after this too, my local dealer quoted me £158 (no mention of an additional part though?) I refuse to believe someone out there doesn't know how to obtain these secret magic codes that only Skoda dealers have? I'm very technically minded having messed around enabling a ton of stuff via VCDS that is disabled from factory so enabling smartlink to allow me to use Android Auto and Apple Car play is a must for me.

Hi all, I'm currently on MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0245T at the moment, I'd like to know if I could upgrade to MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0478T? I read something that it might be changing "trains" whatever that is? I assume that means I'd be going from a P02 to a P04 and that might be a bad thing? What is the point in upgrading anyway? Would it add any new features that I don't already have, does it fix anything etc? Thanks

Hi all, I'm glad this thread is still going. I'm revisting this because I want to activate smart link in my 2016 VRS. Skoda want £157 to do it, they want my car in for an hour or two (this is apparently so they can give my car a once over and give me a complementary wash and vac while they do the update) I'm a bit nervous they will spot all the mods I've done via VCDS and, if they update the firmware in my car, will it reset everything back to factory? If so I will lose: Road sign recognition cornering fogs Passenger mirror dip DRLs flash in phase with indicators high beam assist I'm on MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0245T at the moment, I could upgrade to MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0478T myself but I don't know what the point would be, EG would it add any new features that I don't already have, does it fix anything? Thanks

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I've just encountered this issue. Warning on maxi dot telling me to replace fob battery. Bought a brand new pack of 4x2025 duracells from my local tescos for £8. Opened fob, took old battery out, put brand new duracell battery in, closed fob up. Nothing. Took that one out, put old one back in. Working. Weird I thought, let me try another new battery from the same pack of 4. Next new one in, nothing, same issue. Tldr: The problem was a sticker on the back of the physical battery warning people not to swallow or let children play with it. Took sticker off and hey presto, working battery. Just thought I'd save someone the hassle of thinking they've bought dud duracell batteries. Bit of a silly thing to do though put a sticker on the back of the battery. I'm all for putting warnings on packaging etc but not the actual battery itself. Bit of a daft thing to do in my opinion.

Has anyone needed to clear loads of fault codes after doing the update? Just want to be prepared as I've got VCDS on my laptop but I've not actually hooked up my car even though all the software is installed I remember having USB connectivity issues the last time I tried to connect to my laptop to unlock a ton of features that were disabled by the factory such as cornering fogs and traffic sign recognition etc

Works fine in my 230 VRs manual. I actually quite like it, when I'm on my own in the car that is. I tend to stick it in ECO when my Mrs or family members are in the car with me as I don't want them thinking I'm a massive boy racer! I was actually contemplating a back box delete to make it sound a bit more meaty but for £500 at a local exhaust specialist they can tiddle off! Not sure if a re-map might have more benefit for me? Was quoted £150 to get my car up to 300BHP I want drilled and vented brake disks next though 😎

Hi @pab567 can you check to see if there is an update available for me please?

Cool it's a 2016 vrs So would you recommend upgrading the firmware? Or is it completely unnecessary if I'm not experiencing any issues? Do you get any extra features by upgrading such as apple car play or smart link?

How do I find out if its Amundsen or Columbus? And how do I know if its MIB1 or MIB2? Here's a pic of what I've got:

Sure what do you need? Apologies, only just seen this - didn't receive any notification that anyone quoted me...