lello7

The BCM change fixed the problem. Thank you all!

Update I now have a new unit, but have not had the time to test it. I need to program it first (among others the radio code is stored there?) Is it only possible with vcds or is there an cheaper option? I will have to rent regardless, but n vcds near me available. Mean while, I disconnect the battery and bring the Bcm with mee inside if I leave the car outside for a longer period of time. The bcm bord looked flawless under 10x microscope magnifying. I did resolder all pins 73a and 73b, and all relays... Same problem. This is a multilayered PCB, so I guess its a internal crack or bad connection between the layers. Any sugestions. I have all diagram for the car, but the actual relay is not presented. Only the connections going to and from it, j519 unit.

I have the same model, year, engine as you. Everything you are mentioning is related to the BCM PQ25, 6R7 937 087 H, located under the stearing wheel. Is it cold outside? You can read my thread 🙂

What are you interested in seeing Breezy_Pete? I can not attach any more pictures in this therad 😞 Can I pm you pictures? I only Saw a clean pcb with clean pins:-(

I think we have to wait until you erase all codes, and see what will re-appear.. The epc and esp light is most likely due to the code regarding Kamaxelpositionsgivarkrets, since the ESP is depandant of that sensor.

Have you checked the voltage of the battery while the car (and the alternator) is on?

Wow, what a great site 🙂 I have now bought one, waiting for it to arrive. And I also need to find someone that can Code it/copy my old. I can add that it's Not a fuse or relay issue for sure. My generator is also good, sits around 14.4 volt when driving... It 99% the BCM. For the first time since a bought the car, new codes have appeared regarding tvs diodes, 03301,03302,03303 and 03304. I know this will be sorted when a new revision is installed of the BCM (h version before week 2011 45)

I have now fixed my Radio. So, when temp is "room" temperature or above, the car behaves perfectly. And no sign of any codes (but the AC flap code). The weekend is coming, and I will then remove the BCM and start drilling in it. "Testing" a new BCM is buying a new one, and then the coding.. Expensive test :-).

I have today cleaned every single pin in the BCM, with a small cloth and 99.8%Iso propanol. (they seemed sturdy, and not wiggly). It's now in a "oven" at 37 degrees Celsius, so it will dry completely. May a relay do this behaviour?

Happy new year 🙂 Pictures, not the best, noticed my camera was not clean.. Was only able to add one..

Thanks for the link, I tryed to buy it (maybe to late to make decision before new years) but it will not ship to Sweden, mayby I will contact the seller and see if an exemption can be made. I will however still need an vcds or similar, and I don't know anyone with such device. Maybe a link to the cheepest thing would be nice? I guess I will connect it to the Obd socket, pick the BCM(ce) modul and read/save the configuration? And after plug in the new one in the car and Write the config? Can I have a newer BCM, I guess not?

Stay tuned, I will take new pictures when I release the BCM again. But not until next year, since I am not at home currently 🙂 That photo was taken in a semidark garage and fast:-). Mayby I should use electronic cleaner before I mount it again 🙂 Visually it looked clean, no corrosion nor grease on the contacts 🙂 I am VERY comfortable when it comes to electronics... When I park the car next year (tomorrow) it won't be using it for a while.. So I am going to disconnect the battery and remove the BCM again (and the radio since I might have broken the front PCB yesterday...) While BCM is of the car, I will clean it, and disassemble it (have to drill in the plastic housing on some points I guess??) saw no screws, and something else than the side clips is holding it together. I will use a microscope to check all suspected points.. Any advice before I proceed? 🙂

Today I wanted to access the boot... I have no release lever next to the drivers side, only remote, or electric rear button on the boot. As we all know, it needs electricity/signal to release.. Controlled by BCM or other modul... No heat accec. I opened front door, (manually, it was not locked), opened the engine bay, disconnected the battery... And reconnected (with a spark) and instantly pressed boot release on remote, boot opened, and the car went back to "dead state" at least I could open the boot this way. 🙂

This is the best idea yet in my opinion, a crack will most likely behave like this. Trying a new bcm is buying a new one unfortunately, I don't know anybody in uppsala with a skoda fabia. I will start looking at scrapyards, they will take approx 250£ without shipping. Can it also be a fuse or a relay under the drivers area that is semi broken och have a cold joint, if so, I will start next year and going through the electrical diagrams. (over 1500 pages, but will narrow down to J519 related pages.) I am now not at home, and have left the car Outside, the temperatur is below freezing, - 5 Celsius... I have no electricity near by, so have for the first time left the car Unlocked (in order to be able to open all doors (rear child locked). I will update what happens tomorrow 🙂

The wires in the loom look OK, and as you can see i have fitted a custom made loom, since the old design was bad:-( Today, I turned the heat on, and after 30 minutes went to the car, tested remote, and it worked 😞 What is causing this 😞