lello7
Finding my way
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Everything posted by lello7
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The BCM change fixed the problem. Thank you all!
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Update I now have a new unit, but have not had the time to test it. I need to program it first (among others the radio code is stored there?) Is it only possible with vcds or is there an cheaper option? I will have to rent regardless, but n vcds near me available. Mean while, I disconnect the battery and bring the Bcm with mee inside if I leave the car outside for a longer period of time. The bcm bord looked flawless under 10x microscope magnifying. I did resolder all pins 73a and 73b, and all relays... Same problem. This is a multilayered PCB, so I guess its a internal crack or bad connection between the layers. Any sugestions. I have all diagram for the car, but the actual relay is not presented. Only the connections going to and from it, j519 unit.
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I have the same model, year, engine as you. Everything you are mentioning is related to the BCM PQ25, 6R7 937 087 H, located under the stearing wheel. Is it cold outside? You can read my thread 🙂
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What are you interested in seeing Breezy_Pete? I can not attach any more pictures in this therad 😞 Can I pm you pictures? I only Saw a clean pcb with clean pins:-(
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I think we have to wait until you erase all codes, and see what will re-appear.. The epc and esp light is most likely due to the code regarding Kamaxelpositionsgivarkrets, since the ESP is depandant of that sensor.
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Have you checked the voltage of the battery while the car (and the alternator) is on?
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Wow, what a great site 🙂 I have now bought one, waiting for it to arrive. And I also need to find someone that can Code it/copy my old. I can add that it's Not a fuse or relay issue for sure. My generator is also good, sits around 14.4 volt when driving... It 99% the BCM. For the first time since a bought the car, new codes have appeared regarding tvs diodes, 03301,03302,03303 and 03304. I know this will be sorted when a new revision is installed of the BCM (h version before week 2011 45)
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I have now fixed my Radio. So, when temp is "room" temperature or above, the car behaves perfectly. And no sign of any codes (but the AC flap code). The weekend is coming, and I will then remove the BCM and start drilling in it. "Testing" a new BCM is buying a new one, and then the coding.. Expensive test :-).
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I have today cleaned every single pin in the BCM, with a small cloth and 99.8%Iso propanol. (they seemed sturdy, and not wiggly). It's now in a "oven" at 37 degrees Celsius, so it will dry completely. May a relay do this behaviour?
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Happy new year 🙂 Pictures, not the best, noticed my camera was not clean.. Was only able to add one..
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Thanks for the link, I tryed to buy it (maybe to late to make decision before new years) but it will not ship to Sweden, mayby I will contact the seller and see if an exemption can be made. I will however still need an vcds or similar, and I don't know anyone with such device. Maybe a link to the cheepest thing would be nice? I guess I will connect it to the Obd socket, pick the BCM(ce) modul and read/save the configuration? And after plug in the new one in the car and Write the config? Can I have a newer BCM, I guess not?
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Stay tuned, I will take new pictures when I release the BCM again. But not until next year, since I am not at home currently 🙂 That photo was taken in a semidark garage and fast:-). Mayby I should use electronic cleaner before I mount it again 🙂 Visually it looked clean, no corrosion nor grease on the contacts 🙂 I am VERY comfortable when it comes to electronics... When I park the car next year (tomorrow) it won't be using it for a while.. So I am going to disconnect the battery and remove the BCM again (and the radio since I might have broken the front PCB yesterday...) While BCM is of the car, I will clean it, and disassemble it (have to drill in the plastic housing on some points I guess??) saw no screws, and something else than the side clips is holding it together. I will use a microscope to check all suspected points.. Any advice before I proceed? 🙂
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Today I wanted to access the boot... I have no release lever next to the drivers side, only remote, or electric rear button on the boot. As we all know, it needs electricity/signal to release.. Controlled by BCM or other modul... No heat accec. I opened front door, (manually, it was not locked), opened the engine bay, disconnected the battery... And reconnected (with a spark) and instantly pressed boot release on remote, boot opened, and the car went back to "dead state" at least I could open the boot this way. 🙂
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This is the best idea yet in my opinion, a crack will most likely behave like this. Trying a new bcm is buying a new one unfortunately, I don't know anybody in uppsala with a skoda fabia. I will start looking at scrapyards, they will take approx 250£ without shipping. Can it also be a fuse or a relay under the drivers area that is semi broken och have a cold joint, if so, I will start next year and going through the electrical diagrams. (over 1500 pages, but will narrow down to J519 related pages.) I am now not at home, and have left the car Outside, the temperatur is below freezing, - 5 Celsius... I have no electricity near by, so have for the first time left the car Unlocked (in order to be able to open all doors (rear child locked). I will update what happens tomorrow 🙂
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The wires in the loom look OK, and as you can see i have fitted a custom made loom, since the old design was bad:-( Today, I turned the heat on, and after 30 minutes went to the car, tested remote, and it worked 😞 What is causing this 😞
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😞, good idea, I will try checking it next month, although I purchased the car 2020-Januari, from a private person (only owner). On the way home I noticed that no WINDOWS could be opened, the side mirrors could not be adjusted, no heated mirrors, I called him and he probably lied and said he had not noticed. Saw at least one complete broken cable, and several on their way. I bought a completely new lhd door loom and fitted it in Feb 2020. Everything startted to work after that. More ideas please:-) Sidenote: I now accedently destroyed my Radio (all three fuses checked, one in radio and two under steering wheel) it's completely dead, but I can communicate with it thru "Obd" reader. I will just buy a new one of the car ever get sported.
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Car locked.
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Hi and tanks for joining in:-) Yes, there are 3 standard fuses. All three are good, specially the 5 amp one, since I tested it with 4 amp load and it was all good 🙂
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I have now measured Continuity, at all 6 Fuses, (one did not have a cable), all showd 0.1 (measurement error from my multimeter, it never show zero). I opened the door (remote)....(no heat) and after few seconds, disco light, the light in the roof started to blink (NO key in ignition), and i could hear som relay clicking. Tested to touch every relay i could see, but none felt "clickin". I also laid my hand on the BCM, and no klicking there that could be felt. I could hear the ????? fuel pump???, prime, in the same frequency as ONE off the clicking noice...ended upp disconecting the EARTH lead on the battery, and left the car, What is next :=( VID_20221229_115012.mp4
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Thank you for your advice. I also suspected a loose connection to the BCM. I started with the easy part, removed the earth terminal from the car, and then removed the BCM, by releasing two connectors, and after released the BCM, and it slided down. It looks really really clean, and no surprises there, since it's never parked outside in rain. At home I park it in a garage with ambient temperatur (now days its sub freezing, water would be ice. Hence heating as I do should result in melting of ice, and thus more water.... And at work I park in garage with 20C degrees, 68Fahrenheit. Never seen a dropp of water under my feet. Can add some information. This have been ongoing since September, every day its is cold outside. So I did not use the car for over 2 months. The car was parked and not touched for more than to months in heated garage, October, November, and I got it again mid of December. The car did behave as normal,(opened with remote, I was surprised since I thaugt the battery would be dead after 2 months) the car started easy, and no faults. I parked in garage at home, ambient temperatur, next day it would not open with remote (as september) , and all errors back. And every time I leave it for more than an hour or so, in cold weather, the problem is there. Next to test is to see if the plus battery terminal is clean as per your suggestion, and also measure continuity of the (big) fuses on the battery. The 5amp fuse looked fine, tested previously. More ideas would be nice, like mounting a diesel heater in the car compartment haha... Edit: mounted back everything this morning, and now after 2 hours, the problem is back ( I was hoping that removing and reconnect would mayby solve something :-() Heated for 3 minutes, locally under bay, and voila.. Damn it.
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A mystery is baffeling me. I always not deadlock the doors with the key fob. (press it twice). Started doing that since i once had a problem with the central locking not working, and thus no other doors than the drivers door would open (with key). This has worked for over a year. New year, new problems.. Whenever the weather is could (i live in sweden, imagine), the electronics of the car shut off. When that happens, the doors wont open by remote, the boot wont open, the AC wont work, nor the climate (compeletly off). The wipers will not work, the indicators will not work, the park aid will not work, the radio will not work, you name it will not work. The tail light will blink, and the numberplate light will blink. But the engine starts without any problems. I First suspected the battery, so i put it on constant charge, (charged to 14 volt)..but still when the car gets cold, the problem is there. When trying a SCAN in that state, the only Modul recognized is the ECM, with the following codes. 18043 and 18045. Now this can be "fixed" the only thing i need to do is to put a HEATer under the drivers footwell (left hand driven car), and let it stay on for aprox 5 minutes. Then a put the key in to the ignition, and voila, all is sorted, and i hear relays or something making noice. Works every time. Codes reset before car gets cold, and malfunctions, and heat treated, A new scan is here: (all new codes directly after heat and functionen car) 00457, 01299, 01317, (01274), U000200, U1111000, 00849, 01317, 00625. "01274 Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor - FAULT" is an old code, the flap for the climate motor is not working. Sorry for my english. HELP, i dont have electricity everywhere i park, thats is why this solution is not permanent...my heater is electrically driven 😛 PS, i have TPMS light, ESP and ABS light on in dashboard when i start the car in this faulty condition (i dont have TPMS in my car). But when heat is on, then all ligth go away after restart the car.
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Thank you for a good answer. They know for sure I broke my arm, since they saw me (and my driver). It took me three days after the car was finished until I could get someone to drive it from the garage. Noticed directly that the car would not heat...(usually it would heat within 2km when minus 10 Celsius (sub freezing). (It was 5 Celsius plus when getting car). I called them, they told me" maybe the thermostat need changing". Told him that it was pretty new...he told me that the sensor maybe is bad (that wa also changed during the thermostat, One piece). Then he told me that maybe the water pump needs changing...for extra cash. But car is not over heating..so doubt that. I want to go back to him, but I want to pretend knowing stuff..so he don't talk me over...He will say that " Nothing we have done can cause this" and blame it on the chain jump? They must have made a compression test when done right? Or dose that not show anything? Any suggestions where the oil is going? Where should I look? Please give me advice. Maybe I should have scrapped the car and lost 5000£, instead of fixing.. and losing much more. Did he convert my petrol car into I Diesel car running on Motor oil? Did he install a tele porter into the engine that transport my fresh oil into his garage? The garage was recommended by a friend (died in covid 20 days ago) of my father (They work with VaG cars mainly, and also do oil change on other brands. Is my car gonna pass the MOT in this condition... Any help would be great... "trading standards"= ARN in Sweden, won't work without a Lawyer...and time from my side. I have a 3 month baby and a 2 year old..so spare time is not available :-)
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It's Either the micro switch in the door locking mechanism, or most likely the wiring loom going from the door in to the car body, check for broken wires. Image from BRISKODA.
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I have had my car for 14 months now, a Fabia mk2 Combi 2011, HtP 12V, CGPA engine. Treated it well, until I parked uphill, no parking brake, and First gear in. That apparently made the engine "turn backwards" and slackening the chain tensioner..The car has gone 16000km until now. When I started it, it went into Limp mode..could hardly drive it. Conclusion, the sprocket had jumped a tooth. Resulting in minor valve damage. VaG workshop said its not worth fixing, labor costs more then the car. Spoke to a local garage, they wanted half the price of the car. I ordered 12 new valves, valve seals, 6 valve guides, new oil gasket, new block gasket with all seals, new campaign kit with sprockets and tensioner. New head bolts, new aux belt with tensioner. NO Water pump!. New oil with filter. They had the car for more than one week..(while it was in, I slipped and fractured my right arm). I got it back, and could not drive it for a month..but noticed that debries was in the water cooling system, and the thermostat was always open and it would take almost 6 mile to heat (was changed 6 months ago). Had another garage empty the system and refill, but, problem still there. Have now driven the car for 2000km, and after only 1000km (621mile) I noticed that the oil was way LOW, .refilled 1 liter of oil. I drove additional 621 mile, and again missing almost 1 liter of oil! Not dripping oil anywhere that I can se. No blue or white smoke. Exhaust smells like s#it, even when car been running for 1 hour. RpM at idle at 950..bit high? Gasoline consumption at 58.85 mpg Any ideas what might have gone wrong?..I loved my car for 1 year minus 20 days...I would like to love it again:-) Ps , the garage did not have the tool to change the valve Guides! That they told me when the car was done... Before the cam chain replacement, it would NOT even need a dropp of oil when driven 15000km. I now know I need to change oil at 9000km... Sorry for my poor English, living I Sweden.
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Its a MK2 2011 Fabia Estate (Combi). 1.2 HTP 12V Gasoline. Issiues started directly after headgasket renewal (Got valves changed) Takes ages to heat up, and sometimes go down after gets warm. No issiues whatsoever before this. Thermostat housing with sensor was changed June 2020, so very unlikely? Sorry for "hijacking" this old theread.
