raveydavey

Mine stopped working a few years ago. Pump is audible, just a poor design.

Mine did the same. Dealer ‘fixed’ (pushed back in!) it in about ten minutes for free (Derek Slack in Middlesbrough = they were very good). I guess it’s just another part of the car that is seemingly made out of cheese. I have not been that impressed with the quality and fitness-for-purpose of mine. Still miles better than my previous Seat Leon. That was woefully bad.

Yeah I know what you mean! The fan control module is built into the fan (or so they told me!! So it was £480 for part 3x£70 labour =£210 Fault code £70 £150 VAT to the government. Buy a Skoda they said. Reliable it will be they said. 😉 At least it is fixed. Skoda dealer just wanted to replace the cambelt. Jokers.

Finally got it sorted. New fan control module. Which is what the error code said. £900 from a independent. The part was approx £450 so with labour and VAT etc.. Skoda in Erdington, Birmingham = completely effing useless!

Thanks for the replies guys. Will have a look to see if I can locate it. Hopefully a fairly easy and cheap thing to replace as DIY. Have found a few videos on YouTube showing how to do it for an Octavia so hopefully the same method if not the same location. Longer term I think I need to find a decent, local Skoda independent. The main dealer just seemed to want to rinse me for money.

Hi, Was hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction as to where the coolant sensor is please? Or offer any advice with this problem. It is a 2017 2.0 TDI 150hp 6 speed DSG with 34,000 miles. I had an intermittent fault on the fan where it came on very often which got progressively worse and came on every journey for a few months. I went to a local garage and they gave me a vcds error from a local garage saying “coolant temperature sensor B1 on radiator output raw value =2222 degrees C. (Yes, two thousand degrees!). Said I needed to take it to Skoda as it was the control unit. I took it to the Skoda dealer and they wanted to replace the water pump and cam belt - which they did but they didn’t change the sensor. It fixed a problem where the oil temp fluctuated between 100 and 110 degrees when on the motorway. But the fan coming on has returned - although not as regularly. Symptoms are the fan comes on a lot, straight away when starting the car and stays on throughout the journey. Don’t think it is related to Dpf as it hasn’t regenerated in over 260 minutes / 110 miles and is only up to 18g of soot - from a cheap OBD dongle and the Car Scanner app. (Does anyone know of a better app for iPhone?) The fan will come on every journey for a week or so and then goes off for a bit, sometimes after a long run which makes me think maybe it is Dpf related but often not. It went off two days ago with the Dpf not having regenerated in a few days but with only 18g of soot build in. Used an OBD dongle and the Car Scanner app and get the following error “P048000 Cooling Fan 1 Control a circuit”. googled this and seems a dodgy sensor can cause this (amongst other things). There are no warning lights on the dash etc. but when the fan is on I get poor mpg. I don’t use the car enough really for a diesel, only 9 miles each way per day to work on 30/40 mph zones with a little bit of motorway, but not enough to regen Dpf properly, unless I am lucky so I am conscious it could be related to that but the 2222 degree reading on the as yet replaced sensor cannot be helping matters! Any help greatly appreciated. I know next to nothing about cars!

Electric seat won’t stay in lowest position and repositions ever so slightly higher every time you turn the car off. Using the memory set at minimum doesn’t fix it either. I rub my head on the ceiling every time I get in! A very minor gripe though :-). Still a great car.

....forgot to add the fuse box diagram.

Hi, not sure if you have sorted this yet but this is what I did. I used blind spot detection fuse number 48. It’s a 2amp one. (See photo 1 below) I used a Nextbase dash am hardwire kit. (£20 ish off Amazon etc). (I tried a cheaper Halfords one but the piggyback fuse wasn’t physically large enough so that was a waste of £10.) 1). Open the glove box and detach the left side arm where it meets the glovebox by unclipping the arm. (Photo 1 below) 2). Put fuse 48 into the dashcam hardwire piggyback (photo 2 and 3) 3). Earth to a bolt on body next to fuse board. Tuck the excess wires out of the way and that’s it.

Hi, After some advice please. I’m after a spare wheel, preferably full-size but space saver would be OK. I have 235/40 r19 wheels and wondered if pretty much any VAG group wheels will fit with the same centre hole size? I’ve found a VW transporter wheel that has a 205/65 r16 tyre on it. Here. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352942383244 ....which I think is only 0.3% difference in diameter to my normal wheels/tyre.... according to:- https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=235-40r19-205-65r16 So what do you guys think? is there anything I haven’t thought of? Will it fit? I know it will look crap but I don’t care about that as long as it gets me home! Thanks!