skodilak230

The sound frequency would get so high with speed that it was nat audiable any more, for me it would around 120kmh so i just drove faster. If you really have a failed bearing like me it completely expected that the bearing failed in a different way and therefore different sound profile. Maybe you have less damage overall or less dmaged rollers or something in between. Ether way if its really the gearbox thats making the noise there is something wrong, and stuff will eventually escalate to a bigger problem. Good luck.

You wont see metal shavings because there is internal filter screen and there are magnets that are used for sensing (i think). So no shavings will reach the outer filter (the one that can be serviced). Didnt check the gearbox oil before the service. I drove few hundread km, max 300 before fixing it, the sound was driving me insane and i was worried of a bigger disaster if i continue driving.

No, that idea didnt cross my mind. But yes, as long as the gearbox is spinning the sound should be there. I think you answered your own question.

You are correct. The web also suggests the J757 relay that could be dying.

I got the same info, but what i cant confirm is if the E is physically different from A. When googling the E part both designs pop up, so im just trying to get confirmation that the E is indeed a newer design that is different from A. Now that you mentioned it, i might be wrong, it does seem to point to a different problem, that i diagnosed wrong. The codes i get are: Address 01: Engine (J623-CHHA) Labels:. 06K-907-425-V1.clb Part No SW: 5G0 906 259 C HW: 06K 907 425 B Component: 2.0l R4 TFSI H13 0002 Revision: --H13--- Coding: 0C1D00124434010B0000 Shop #: WSC 73430 031 00000 ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM20TFS0205G0906259C 001005 ROD: EV_ECM20TFS0205G0906259C.rod VCID: 2E59537A71174CF4A1-807A 7 Faults Found: 17178 - Databus U1123 00 [032] - Received Error Message Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear 15358 - Engine Torque Monitor 2 P1335 00 [032] - Control Limit Exceeded Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 124025 km Date: 2025.11.04 Time: 13:41:41 Engine RPM: 5066.75 /min Normed load value: 81.2 % Vehicle speed: 110 km/h Coolant temperature: 92 °C Intake air temperature: 18 °C Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 14.335 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 39 Engine: operating status: PL STATE_LS_SAE[1]: CL ENVD_0_TQI_MON: 157 ENVD_1_TQI_MON: 32 ENVD_2_TQI_MON: 65 ENVD_3_TQI_MON: 29 STATE_ERR_ABC_PRED: 15 15394 - Cam Adjustment Actuator A; Cylinder 1 P11A2 00 [096] - Implausible Signal Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 124026 km Date: 2025.11.04 Time: 13:42:04 Engine RPM: 4861.75 /min Normed load value: 35.7 % Vehicle speed: 70 km/h Coolant temperature: 90 °C Intake air temperature: 25 °C Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 13.457 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Engine: operating status: PL CAM_VCP[EX_1]: 19.172 ° CTR_VVL_LIH_DEAC: 0 CTR_VVL_LIH_ACT: 7 CTR_VVL_SWI_DC: 13 T_SWI_VVL_ACR: 17.9 ms NR_CYL_FIRST_VVL_SWI: 3 15400 - Cam Adjustment Actuator A; Cylinder 4 P11AE 00 [096] - Implausible Signal Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 124026 km Date: 2025.11.04 Time: 13:42:04 Engine RPM: 4497.00 /min Normed load value: 0.0 % Vehicle speed: 70 km/h Coolant temperature: 89 °C Intake air temperature: 24 °C Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 13.671 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Engine: operating status: PUC CAM_VCP[EX_1]: 12.430 ° CTR_VVL_LIH_DEAC: 0 CTR_VVL_LIH_ACT: 7 CTR_VVL_SWI_DC: 23 T_SWI_VVL_ACR: 18.6 ms NR_CYL_FIRST_VVL_SWI: 1 15396 - Cam Adjustment Actuator A; Cylinder 2 P11A6 00 [096] - Implausible Signal Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 124025 km Date: 2025.11.04 Time: 13:41:48 Engine RPM: 2839.00 /min Normed load value: 0.0 % Vehicle speed: 91 km/h Coolant temperature: 89 °C Intake air temperature: 22 °C Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 14.414 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Engine: operating status: PL CAM_VCP[EX_1]: 0.070 ° CTR_VVL_LIH_DEAC: 0 CTR_VVL_LIH_ACT: 6 CTR_VVL_SWI_DC: 21 T_SWI_VVL_ACR: 25.7 ms NR_CYL_FIRST_VVL_SWI: 0 15414 - Cam Adjustment Actuator B; Cylinder 1 P11A4 00 [096] - Implausible Signal Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 124025 km Date: 2025.11.04 Time: 13:41:48 Engine RPM: 2815.00 /min Normed load value: 0.0 % Vehicle speed: 90 km/h Coolant temperature: 89 °C Intake air temperature: 22 °C Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 14.394 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Engine: operating status: PL CAM_VCP[EX_1]: 0.070 ° CTR_VVL_LIH_DEAC: 0 CTR_VVL_LIH_ACT: 6 CTR_VVL_SWI_DC: 27 T_SWI_VVL_ACR: 26.0 ms NR_CYL_FIRST_VVL_SWI: 0 15418 - Cam Adjustment Actuator B; Cylinder 3 P11AC 00 [096] - Implausible Signal Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 124025 km Date: 2025.11.04 Time: 13:41:49 Engine RPM: 2764.25 /min Normed load value: 0.0 % Vehicle speed: 88 km/h Coolant temperature: 89 °C Intake air temperature: 23 °C Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 14.414 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Engine: operating status: PL CAM_VCP[EX_1]: 0.063 ° CTR_VVL_LIH_DEAC: 0 CTR_VVL_LIH_ACT: 6 CTR_VVL_SWI_DC: 32 T_SWI_VVL_ACR: 26.5 ms NR_CYL_FIRST_VVL_SWI: 1 Readiness: 0010 0001

Hi all 2015 Skoda Octavia 230 VRS Recently I have had an EPC light pop up while pushing the car. The car immediately cuts all throttle and only restarting the car removes the issue. Upon scanning i get the P11xx implausible signal from Cam Adjustment Actuator for all cylinders. This likely is pointing towards failing camshaft magnet actuator. Now here is the issue: The part on my car is: 06L 109 259 A, see attached picture When you search for replacement parts one of the choices you get is INA 427 0034 10 which has a part number on it 06L 109 259 E Now i know that parts get updated over time (hence A, B, C... variants), but the issue here is that construction is not the same. INA part i doesn't have a full metal disc, but rather a metal disc surrounded by plastic. Also it doesn't have two holes in front like the original does. I presume the holes are for oil, but i have no idea what purpose the oil has in a magnet actuator. Anyway, check out the second image of the E variant. My questions are as follows: - Will the new revision function correctly? I'm sure the magnet does the same thing, but the lack of oil holes is somewhat concerning (why would there be holes if they are not needed). - Could it be that the revision removed the holes because it gunked up the actuator and made more issues than it fixed? Is this why they fail? Any experience or info is much appreciated. Its not nice to loose ALL power when you expect it let alone when you need it. :( Also, I'm fully aware i can just buy the genuine VW/Skoda part but the difference in price is literally 3-4x and i know INA is the manufacturer of camshaft magnets for VAG. So instead i decided to save some cash and replace it with a headache (dont judge me :D ). Kind regards, J

Hi Im from Croatia so this info wont be of much use for you as I'm guessing you are located in UK? The price of repairs was 1.2k euros, the parts (bearing, filters new oil and other bits and bobs that you do "because you are already there) were not expensive, but the labor was (800€ to be exact). The repair was done by a DCT expert that worked at official repair shop for over a decade before he opened his own shop. I guess if i went to official dealer the price would likely double if not triple. If you have the same issue, it would be really great if you could also take photos of the bearing. This could be a bad batch from SKF. I hope you get your car sorted. Good luck.

Yes, several people, with knowledge of material sciences, and the gearbox specialist, all commented the same thing. They all said that carburizing (i believe that's the English term) failed and thats probably a manufacturing defect. No one happier than me :)

Well, the gearbox is repaired and the car is back at converting gasoline to happiness. 🤩 Except the bearing, nothing else was damaged, but several other items were replaced, the list is as follows: Clutch pack cover/gasket Pump gasket Gearbox casing gasket Cover gasket Inner filter Outer filter Output bearing of the main pyramid In retrospect, there might have been very subtle sounds that signaled to something going wrong, but i would have never guessed its the gearbox problem. Another interesting fact, the bearing is made by SKF in Brazil. Anyway, here are some more pictures.

What is odd is that it failed "at once". Usually these bearings fail progressively, first producing some humming, whistling sound that gets worse over time. This went from no sound to "what is that horrible noise" in one 150 km drive. Granted, it was a spirited drive on the highway, but still...

The bearing got pounded hard it seems. Lack of lubrication would be the main suspect, but the gearbox was not low on oil... could be just bad luck or the car sat at side incline (this did happen) before being driven. More teardown will happen, and I will post final verdict.

Just a quick, short update. The DSG mechanic told me that sound and vibrations are coming from the gearbox itself. Its likely that some bearing (likely on the main pyramid) got destroyed. Once he opens and looks at the internals I will have more info, but that will have to wait till his schedule opens up. Really NOT the news I was hoping for, but what's done is done, such is life. I will post more details once I know them and hopefully some photos of metal machine horror.

Fudge! :( This is on me, should have been more diligent with VAQ servicing, kinda hope its VAQ and not DSG, its a more cheaper fix. The axle was out and both inner and outer CV joint passed mechanics inspection. Said there is no play or anything pointing out to a failure (like torn boots or chunks of metal or dirt in the bearings) + it also doesn't "feel" like a CV failure when driving. I will be reporting as the situation unfolds. I have a date with DSG "specialist" on monday to see if he can guess what it might be. Thank you for responses, much appreciated.

The car has done 118 000km (~73 000 miles) DSG has been serviced (oil and filter) at 60 000km (~37 000 miles) and than again last year at 100 000km (~62 000 miles). VAQ was serviced once at the the same time the first DSG service was made. I was about to service it this season again. I know I'm a bit late, but considering most mileage the car does is highway, and absolutely 0 track time or launches i thought i was OK. The car is ruining 300bhp for the last ~70000 km + TCU tune to handle the torque (the clutches never slipped and there was never an issue with shifting). My thoughts as well, but I was hoping (rather foolishly) that it might be something else :(. I was always under the impression that given proper servicing and tune, the DQ250 and VAQ can handle much more power and torque than I'm currently running. This still might be true, it could just be my unlucky ass... Is the diff/final drive a serviceable item at all? Or should I start looking at replacement units?

Hi, I have 2015 Skoda Octavia 230 VRS, Anyway, my gearbox has developed an ominous rattle, sounds like rocks rattling in a box. By elimination i have narrowed the issue down to DSG itself or maybe the VAQ LSD. Here are few clues: 1. If the car is stationary and in neutral, the rattle is not there while spinning the engine. 2. If the car is rolling in neutral, the rattle is there. 3. The rattle is tied to wheel speed, not engine speed. 4. The rattle seems to be a bit less loud in higher gears (4th, 5th, 6th) 5. The rattle sound changes depending on left or right turn I take. Other than that, the car drives and shifts fine. If I go fast enough the rattle is inaudible (could be that the frequency is just to high to differentiate from the engine noise). If it wasn't for the horrible noise it makes when driving slowly I would never guess there is something wrong with the car. I have few videos of the rattle, but this one is imho the best as the car is in the air and there is no load on the wheels. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AL56c1V-Pmk&ab_channel=WHOME%E2%80%9Ctech77%E2%80%9D ANY ideas or information would be great, I love the car and I cant drive it like this knowing that it could potential result in even more damage.