Scott_Turbo

Nice mate. You wont regret it 👍🏻

Them calipers look lovely. What sort of price would biggred charge to refurb them to that specification? Thanks

Hi mate, definitely a worth while mod. The AGU boost pipe i got off ebay for £20 delivered. Not sure how often they pop up though. Think mine came off an audi tt 180. The CM silicone hose i got off ebay if you search for “ VW GOLF MK4 A3 TT OCTAVIA LEON 1.8T 20V SILICONE PANCAKE BOOST HOSE AGU ARZ H188“ Also if you heat wrap the boost pipe like i did you will need longer retaining bolts which you need four M6 Hex head A2 bolts 40mm in length as the originals are 20mm.

Over the weekend i installed my SFS Oversized TIP. Pricey product but what i will say the CM TIP that came with my uprated Turbo felt more stronger then the SFS one so dont understand why people have knocked their product. What i mean by 'Stronger' is I could squeeze the main body of the TIP easier with the SFS compared to the CM Tip and looking at the CM TIP there are more layers of Silicone compared to the SFS one. I chose to install the SFS pipe simply on the basis of what i have read on various forums being a 'better product' and I like the Kawasaki Green colour too. Took me 2.5hours to install the SFS TIP that was with two people me underneath the car and my friend over the engine bay. Coolant pipe i had to bend quite a bit to allow TIP elbow to pass. Makes more swooshing sounds but didnt notice any performance gains but saying that the following day I removed my AUQ boost pipe with the poor design coupling and replaced with an AGU boost pipe which i heat wrapped and used a CM silicone boost pipe that links the pipe to the pancake pipe. Used proper hose clamps, secured well. Took car out after this and 'WOW' real improvement in the car accelerating throughout the rev range.

Oh well, lessons learnt. Ive obviously paid well over the odd then

Ive not seen anywhere on ebay for a full LCR front setup for £150. Depending on what condition your setup was you could of got more if you sold bits separately. LCR Hubs on ebay now for £100 a subframe for £179 Quick racks going from £40-£150 wishbones £20-£160 prices varey

Hi guys, Ive managed to get the following for £400 all in. First off have i been ripped or is that a good deal LCR Subframe Lower arms with powflex bushing (rears are shot but fronts i will re use) R32 ARB with PF bushes LCR Hubs. Quickrack ( i will be selling this as i already have an audi S3 8L one) I am gonna take out all the bushes as i want all parts powder coating and any bolts i think need replacing i will replace. The hubs i will put new wheel bearings in as the heat from oven will destroy them when PC. is it worth me PF or SP the rear subframe bushes as well? I am thinking while its off the car upgrade all the bushes to polyurethane. Also once the front subframe and rear subframe have been refurbed what would be a good damper/spring to run on the octavia?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F123609702995 This was the decat i was looking at

Hi everyone, can someone please advise me on a good ko3s upgrade. I dont want to go ko4 route. I was a little disappointed with the results my car made from the following bolt ons pro alloy front mount cooler 440cc injectors bosh green giants aps 265L fuel pump ram air induction miltek turbo back with 3” downpipe/200cell sports cat usual delete mods forge diverter valve Maf and tip are standard ive attached what my car made and since then ive ordered an sfs oversized tip, i am also gonna go back to an oem diverter valve new one. I have also got my hands on an agu boost pipe that goes from pancake pipe as the auq ones are prone to boost leaks. Also i am tempted to buy an ebay 3” downpipe and decat. They like £100 compared to milteks which is £249. Thoughts on these appreciated. With that all said what would be a good turbo upgrade? A bbt 300? Mine already has a new hybrid Ko3s but it just didnt make the numbers i was hoping, there was slight twisting movement between the exhaust turbine housing and the compressor housing but the mechanic didnt want to tighten the attached bolts too much in fear of snapping the threads. Ive attached pics for better explanation. So the arrows marked yellow that was where the twisting movement occurred by about 5mm. Could that be a cause of boost leak. The six collar bolts how tight should they be? ideally i wana be hitting 270hp with close to 300ft/lb

Mapper got back to me today with some good info id thought i would share with you all...please see below. I went over every hose clamp this morning and they are all secure so i can only put it down to the turbo being the root cause here. Hi Scott, Boost you are peaking at 1.1 bar and this drops to 0.9 bar. This is with the Duty cycle of the N75 valve at 90-95% across the RPM range. With this sort of duty, a normal K03S would boost well over 1.5 bar initially. Boost is controlled by the ECU by varying the duty cycle. 95% is the most it can run. AFR is at 11.8:1 on boost. All is good here. You are down on boost. Either you are not making the boost, or you are making it and losing it. If you are making it and losing it then that's a leak. If you are not making it then these are the possible causes: 1. Turbo design. The turbo design is not working and isn't allowing it to make boost, or the boost it does make is ineffective. Obviously you can rule this out on a stock turbo but not on a hybrid which had not been tested. 2. Blockage. An exhaust or intake blockage stopping air flow. 2. Damaged turbo, one or both of the wheels may be damaged, the exhaust housing maybe cracked or not sealing in some way. 3. Wastegate not sealing. This can be from the wastegate penny not seating, being damaged, or it could be the actuator is damaged or very soft not pressing the penny properly. I have seen a lot of turbos that have had wastegates not sealing properly. 4. Too much boost getting to the actuator. The N75 works by stopping the actuator seeing boost. The higher the duty cycle, the less boost the N75 allows to get to the actuator, and so it opens the wastegate less and you run more boost. If the N75 doesn't stop boost getting to the actuator you will run less boost. This has it's own sub causes: 4a Faulty N75 valve - however boost is changing with respect to duty cycle so this suggests the valve itself is ok. 4b - Boost/Vac pipes which connect between the N75 and the turbo, intake and actuator are not sealing/leaking/damaged. With the turbo having an unknown history and having play in it, this is what I would be looking at. Rick

Yeah will do mate. It’s not gonna be anytime soon but this is the 3rd vrs ive owned and dont plan on ever selling it. Who knows maybe one day the mk1 vrs will shoot up in value?

I should of just gone to see Niki at R-Tech in the first place. The meet is a five hour round trip for me so will have to pass i’m afraid. I am thinking next on shopping list will be a BBT K300 turbo, oversized tip, then hand over to Niki to work his magic. Better get saving

There are the only pics i could find of the turbo before i got it fitted...even with the standard tip i would of expected to make more then 220hp but guess i should of fitted an oversized tip before taking it to the mapper 😞

Just manage to dig out the invoice for the work done on the turbo

Thanks for the replies everyone. The only think i can think of is when i had the turbo fitted the mechanice at awesome gti said you could move ever so slightly the hotside and the coldside of the turbo. So if you grabbed the turbo and twisted it there was a little bit of movement. He shown me but didnt want to tighten the bolts up more incase they snapped so whether that is the issue. Ive read some posts on here and with a hybrid ko3s i should be hitting 250+hp? Or is it hit and miss?