Rotarski

Thank you both! Hopefully it will last, this is the first time I'm getting something like this done and I have zero mechanical knowledge so...yeah, this is a real accomplishment. Indeed, I have no AC in the car, I tried making a refill a while back as it was empty (probably leaking from somewhere) but it seemed that the system was clogged as only a very small amount managed to get into the circuit before the refill machine stopped. I didn't want to spend any money on troubleshooting and fixing the issue as it can get very expensive so I decided to not have A/C in the car. I'm now enjoying the breeze with the windows wide open :))

I'm back with a late update on the issue presented initially in the thread. After further investigating the issue and after finding a small coolant puddle underneath the car, it seemed that the engine radiator was actually punctured. I managed to replace both the heater and the engine radiator but I have to admit, I felt I was in way over my head when I saw the hole front of the car disassembled (sorry for the blurred picture). It took me around 10 hours during the week-end to have everything done and that's without the time spent researching and getting the right tools for the task. I did had some issues with the radiator support as it was previously smashed in an accident and I had to play around with the parts fitment so it's somewhat decent. After a few km everything seems to be in order and I noticed no leaks so far.

That was the main reason I wanted to use the drain so I don't spill the coolant all over the place. I want to act responsibly and properly drain and dispose it

Sorry, scuttle is a new term for me, are you referring to the area where the windshield wipers are located (that's what google showed me)? Now that you mentioned scuttle, I just realized that my wipers are no longer working, from the same day

I did cleaned the windows with the same windshield liquid I use on the outside and that did the trick, for now. I managed to get home safe and I'm now trying to figure out what's the solution to completely fix it.

Thank you! Yes, that's what I did, having the recirculation button on stopped the air from coming in, but is that normal? Maybe I didn't fully understood how the ventilation system works? The heater is right behind the central console, inside the car, right? Judging by that, the tank is a tad higher than the heater so I would still have to drain quite the amount of fluid. I don't think this was ever changed so maybe it's a good idea to change the most of it if I decide to change the heater.

So I took a 400 km trip the other day and since it's still winter I had to use the heater and my ventilation set to 2. What I noticed is that on the windshield there was some sort of fog or grease that spreaded on all windows eventually, on the inside of the car. From some research I did this might be because the heater radiator is punctured and coolant gets sprayed inside the ventilation system so I would assume I will have to drain the coolant and replace the heater. The other issue is that even though my ventilation system is turned OFF, if the temperature is set to 18 degrees really cold air still comes in (especially when cruising at 90 km/h) on the other hand, If I set the temperature to 26 hot air comes in. What I also noticed is that a moisty/moldy smell comes in the first few minutes when I turn the ventilation on. My two questions are: - would it be possible to drain the coolant by using some sort of hose/tube so I don't have to raise the car, remove the undertray etc.? Has anyone tried that? - what would be a possible solution for the ventilation to fully turn off so air doesn't get inside the car even though the ventilation button is set to 0? Thank you!

Hi guys, So my front windshield cracked a while back but it's also leaking around the top edges getting the headliner next to the pillars wet so I decided to get it replaced. The issue I'm having is determining if the previous window was the correct model and if it indeed was installed correctly as on some Fabia's I've seen around my neighborhood the glass almost reaches the side exterior pillars but on mine it's not and there is a rubber sealer all around the edges of the windshield that got filled with dirt. Also the top plastic ornaments don't seem to fit really well and I'm really surprised they didn't flew away already. I'm trying to figure out if I need to buy anything before I go to replace the windshield.

I went to a local dealer with the VIN number and ordered all the needed parts. I'll try and either find a mechanic to change the parts, hoping they are the right ones, or I will try and fit them myself. Any suggestions for the case I'm going to fit them myself?

I'm doing that, using the OEM part code on the website but for the same code I can find multiple results. For example the break drum show up with multiple sizes such as diameter of 240 or 230, interior height where I'm guessing the break pads are pressing, is either 40, 50.1 or 50.5

Thank you Sir! I do use 7zap to identify parts but it doesn't show up all the details, for example, for the front break pads, what Thickness should I pick? What about Height1/2, Width? There are so many options and every parts website, even though you add the exact car details, still shows items that don't really fit your car...

Hi guys, I want to place an order to replace the following parts but I'm having a hard time figuring out the right sizes: - rear drum - rear break pads - front disks - front break pads - rear shock absorber dust covers Skoda Fabia 6y2 - 2007 - 1.2 petrol 40 kW / 54 HP - I believe code engine is BMD (SCBMDX01) Also, if you guys have any suggestions on what else needs to be changed when replacing the above or the manufacturer for those parts it would be much appreciated, Thank you!

Found the issue, there is a seal inside the cap that was slightly over the movement fillet part which prevent it going in all the way. After pushing the seal slightly back, the cap screws on all the way and spins freely, it works now. Thank you!

So I got a new filler cap with key lock, if unlocked the fillet spins freely and if locked the fillet doesn't spin. That's not working for me, even if locked, you can unscrew the cap freely. What am I missing? Is something missing on my car that should lock the filler cap in place? Can someone make some photos on their car so I can compare it to mine? Thank you!

Thank you guys for such fast replies. I found an aftermarket cap with 2 keys to sort it out.

I just checked behind the filler cap and there is no system to lock the flap so I believe you are right, the cap was replaced. Is the cap using the same key as the one that starts the engine or it has a different key?

Hi guys, I own a Skoda Fabia 1 6Y 1.2 BMD and I can open the fuel flap and the cap freely even if the car is locked by simply pulling it (not even hard) and there is no button inside the car for it (or at least not from what I saw). I doubt this is supposed to happen so how is the correct system here? Shouldn't there be a button or some sort of leaver for it? What am I missing?

Finding the correct codes for your parts is such a hassle...I tried to search the parts I needed but I keep getting results for VW and Seat. I do know these carry the same parts but I can't seem to find a way to be 100% this matches my car. I have to mention I'm looking into second-hand parts and they do not mention if the part can be fitted in my BMD version. Are these correct: battery top cover - 6Q0 915 429 B fuse box retainer - 6Q0 915 345 C battery box - 6Q0 915 419 B battery tray - 6Q0 915 331 D

Ok, battery was changed, don't know if there is anything special you need to do when changing the batter besides unplugging the negative first and plugging it the last. I started the car and left it run for 10-15 minutes. This is what I found when I removed the battery tray (see pictures) The battery tray has some sort of drainage which is obviously ruined, what's that for and where should it go? Also, what's the little yellow cap for? L.E: Found that the yellow cap is actually for the steering pump. I'm guessing the cap wasn't tight enough and the fluid got out. Should I buy some and fill it or that requires professional work? I also tried to outsource the ground cable but in Romania is way more expensive than e-bay, 100 USD the cheapest, new OEM, compared to 45 USD. I decided to try and find one second-hand. I have a noob question, I'm guessing the radiator fan starts to run at a specific temp right? At what temp? The gauge was showing me 90 degrees and the fan was still off. Also, shouldn't the head up display (I think it's called maxidot) light up when engine is on and show some info on it? It does light up when I first move the key to the first position and shows different markers but turns off afterwards. The stick is broken so I'm not sure if that's the reason why it's off and I'm trying to find some info about it. Thank you for all the support and info, it helps a lot!

Yes, exactly what I'm doing, I'm focusing on making the car run as good as it can. For the esthetic parts, I'm doing the research. I tend to do that in everything I do so I'm prepared when time comes

I keep finding things like this...I'm under the impression this car was in a frontal accident and they made all sorts of "dyi" stuff, and bad ones...does anyone has a few detailed pictures with how should the engine bay really look like? I'm determined to invest some money in it, to make it run as good as possible.

So it would be beneficial to get the same battery as I currently have, there is no point in searching for another model/manufacturer I guess?

Totally forgot to reply to this.

In the past years we had -10 -15 degrees so yeah, it gets pretty cold. I'll try and tighten all the connections but I doubt it that's the issue. A couple of months ago the previous owner left for a one week holiday and forgot the car with the key in the ignition, in first position and the battery fully drained so I'm guessing that's the reason it's no longer holding it's power. It's also almost 3 years old.

So it's solely based on the size of the batter and not the specs? The reason I'm asking for specific details is because I'm not 100% sure the battery box is from my car. As I mentioned on this thread both the air filter box and the battery box seem off. They are hold together by zip ties and I can move them around if I try hard enough.