rangor_g

Now I've uploaded the photo, I can see why it didn't work. I'd soldered the wrong pins! 🤦‍♂️

In the end I bought a secondhand ceiling light switch. Lights are all working properly again now. For reference, here's a photo of the pins I soldered. Something definitely wasn't right as the lights had some residual power when the switch was in the off position and stayed on while the engine was running.

taken me a while to get back to sorting out the light switch. I've attached a photo of the circuit and switch from my car, and I've circled in red the two pins I soldered. You can see the switch and pins are very corroded. If you can let me know if I've done something wrong, that would be great. I've also found a replacement secondhand part on ebay which i could get.

After looking closer at your photos, it looks like you put some solder inside the switch mechanism. Is that what you mean? I didn't do that, just soldered the wire across the two pins. I'll get the light switch out again and post a photo.

I've just followed your guide, soldering the same two pins. The switches now work, but with the switch in the middle position the lights stay on after the engine is on. Does that happen in your car too?

Thanks for letting me know. That's annoying. Why are so many breaker yards removing the screen without that bit of fascia?

no replies, maybe my description was a bit poor. Can anyone tell me if i can reuse the bit I've circled in red in this photo from my old 6.5" screen: And use the piece of fascia in a larger 8" screen (5E0919605M) which is missing its own piece of fascia, e.g. in this photo here highlighted in blue:

Hello, Can anyone who's made the change from an amundsen MIB1 with a 6.5" screen to a MIB2 with 8" screen tell me if I can reuse the little thin strip of fascia below the screen? I've been looking to buy the 8" screen (5E0919605M) on ebay but most of the screens being sold don't have the fascia piece. So can I use the piece from my original 6.5" screen with the replacement 8" screen? Many thanks!

Car is back from my local garage and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. The mechanic said the prop shaft coupler looks fine, and i had a look too and it does look ok (photo attached). There are some tears but otherwise looks fine. It's booked in for a haldex service in Jan. Hopefully that will resolve it. For the past two weeks the car has been driving fine with no juddering or issues moving from stationary.

Its done 113K miles.

Right-o, in that case I'll pop into my local garage this week and see if they'll jack it up to have a quick look. Haldex oil and filter was last done in Jan 2020, just after i bought the car. I've done about 20K miles since then.

I wondered if it was an issue with the clutch, or Dual mass fly wheel? Our C-max had something a bit similar that turned out was a knackered DMF.

@Rooted, i have no idea. But i have booked it into the local independent garage in a couple of weeks to investigate the issue, so i will ask them to check it.

hi all, My 2015 Octavia Scout has started vibrating at higher speeds. The vibration is constant at about 70 mph, but only seems to occur when the car is heavily loaded. By heavily loaded, i mean a boot full of suitcases, two kids in the back, two adults in the front. The vibration can be felt through the footwell and feels like the whole car is shaking. The other thing that is occurring is that the car is juddering sometimes after engaging the gear when releasing the clutch to accelerate from stationary or slow speeds - it feels like there isn't enough power to get the car moving. Again, this only seems to be happening when the car is heavily loaded. When i drove to work this morning with only me in the car, there was no vibration or juddering. Last week the car had a tyre puncture repaired, so i initially thought the vibration was due to the wheel being unbalanced, but now i know its only happening under heavy load it seems something else is causing it. Any suggestions? Many thanks

My 2015 Octavia Scout has something very similar. I'm going to post a new thread on it.

An update: My local garage has replaced the thermostat, and now the engine is warming up in 10-15 min and sticking to 90 degrees as it used to. However, i only got to drive it once before i got a warning on the dashboard telling me to check coolant level. It had dropped to below the minimum. Fine, perhaps a bit of an airlock that had cleared after the new thermostat had been put in. But, I also noticed that the coolant is thick and black. It looks extremely oily. So, is this the oil cooler leaking oil into the coolant? or something worse? One independent VW garage i spoke with said it could be a head gasket problem? Doesn't sound good. I'm going to book it back into my local garage for them to replace the oil cooler and flush the system.

Mine's only just had a new water pump and belt fitted. Where did you find the diagram you posted?

No its not got a DSG

My local garage has quote £240 (incl. VAT) to replace the thermostat. Seems a bit steep. They say its less than hours work but the VAG thermostat only comes with housing and the whole thing is expensive (i guess around £150). Can anyone advise on non-VAG parts? Any other brands i should look out for or avoid? This is for a 2015 octavia mk3 Scout (so 4x4) 2.0 diesel manual.

thanks for the suggestion (i wondered if something like that might have happened). If that is the case, it doesn't seem like a major problem. I guess i can stop worrying about it.

hi, Not sure if i should be concerned about something I've noticed my 2015 mk3 Scout doing recently. A few weeks ago i noticed that the coolant temperature dial behaving a little odd. It took a very long time (~20 minutes) to come up to 90 degrees, and while it was warming up the temp would go up and then down again. After around 20 min it settled in its usual place at 90 degrees C. I've had the car for 2 years and in all that time the coolant temperature has always come up to temperature very quickly and then sticks solidly at 89-90 degrees. Now everytime the car starts from cold it takes around 15 - 20 min to come up to temperature. I'm pretty sure it used to take no more than 5 minutes. Some more info. Back in June, the water pump failed (after only 2 years!) and the coolant got pretty hot (although in the red zone) before i could turn the car off. I had a new water pump and cam belt done. The garage that repaired it said that the water pump had a small plastic bit broken off. They tried to find it in the pipework but couldn't - so presumably its in their somewhere! They showed me the fins of the pump and there was a little piece missing around 1 cm large. Should i worry about it?! Could that bit of plastic be blocking something and be the cause of the coolant temperature taking a while to come to temperature? Could the time when the coolant got extremely hot have damaged another part that may the cause of the coolant temperature slow rise? Any suggestions welcome.

Orded the blue one. Picking it up tomorrow. The garage agreed to sort out the cambelt and water pump (using skoda parts). They've checked the coolant reservoir and say that there is no 'mit silikan' on this one. Seems a bit strange as other 2015 octavia scouts seem to have it, but I'll check again when i pick up the car. Will book it in for a haldex full service next week and gear box oil and filter change while I'm at it. Also want a tow bar fitted. Can any one recommend a VAG specialist in Kent? Thanks for everyone's input on this thread and elsewhere. It's great to have access to a whole load of knowledge and experience from other skoda drivers.

just found another white scout, identical spec and age to previous ones I've looked. It's a couple of hundred pounds cheaper but has needed mechanical repairs. Its another ex lease car, same company the other white one I've looked at. It's just had two new shock absorbers on the front (they were leaking in previous MOTs), new cambelt and water pump. According to the sales guy its "currently having its rear differential rebuilt as it was making some noise". The sales guy sounded very open and honest and happily gave me the info on the car's condition, visual and mechanical. He says the exterior and interior are pristine, but needing new shocks, new rear bearings, and rebuilding the differential (I'm not exactly clear what this means) sounds like its been over some big bumps or something.

Good point OBS. Is there any way to find out online from number plate alone? The HPI checker i used gave me engine number, and i can see CO2 emissions, but nothing on ULEZ. It's a major concern for me as I don't plan to drive into london any time soon. But if the same rules start being applied to other cities in future then might become a bit more important. I was also wondering how serious the 'mit-silikan' silicone tea bag issue is for Skodas. I didn't know about it when i went to see the cars so did not check for the stamp on the reservoir.

White one with the rust chips has had a new windscreen at some point. I spotted it wasn't original when looking around the car, and on the MOT history shows it failed due to windscreen a couple of years ago.