rangor_g

Hi, I've got a 2015 octavia scout mk3, manual 2.0 diesel, with 135,000 miles. It's service is due. It's looking expensive! In the last service there were some advisories. These were: Front main oil seal starting to leak Rear prop shaft starting to split Front arm rear bush delimitating Both front shocks leaking Haldex service due Brake fluid due I've asked my local VAG independent garage to do the service. They say that to sort out the oil seal leak they will have to also replace the cam belt and water pump. The cam belt and pump were replaced in 2022, due to a fault in the previous one installed in 2020. Do you think I should replace the cam belt again so that the oil seal can be replaced? Should I replace all 4 shocks or just the 2 fronts that are leaking? There is a slight strange noise (kind of an echoing rumble) coming from the rear of the car, and the car sometimes judders when accelerating from stationary. Could this be something to do with the prop shaft splitting? The garage said they will assess the prop shaft before replacing it.

Now I've uploaded the photo, I can see why it didn't work. I'd soldered the wrong pins! 🤦‍♂️

In the end I bought a secondhand ceiling light switch. Lights are all working properly again now. For reference, here's a photo of the pins I soldered. Something definitely wasn't right as the lights had some residual power when the switch was in the off position and stayed on while the engine was running.

taken me a while to get back to sorting out the light switch. I've attached a photo of the circuit and switch from my car, and I've circled in red the two pins I soldered. You can see the switch and pins are very corroded. If you can let me know if I've done something wrong, that would be great. I've also found a replacement secondhand part on ebay which i could get.

After looking closer at your photos, it looks like you put some solder inside the switch mechanism. Is that what you mean? I didn't do that, just soldered the wire across the two pins. I'll get the light switch out again and post a photo.

I've just followed your guide, soldering the same two pins. The switches now work, but with the switch in the middle position the lights stay on after the engine is on. Does that happen in your car too?

Thanks for letting me know. That's annoying. Why are so many breaker yards removing the screen without that bit of fascia?

no replies, maybe my description was a bit poor. Can anyone tell me if i can reuse the bit I've circled in red in this photo from my old 6.5" screen: And use the piece of fascia in a larger 8" screen (5E0919605M) which is missing its own piece of fascia, e.g. in this photo here highlighted in blue:

Hello, Can anyone who's made the change from an amundsen MIB1 with a 6.5" screen to a MIB2 with 8" screen tell me if I can reuse the little thin strip of fascia below the screen? I've been looking to buy the 8" screen (5E0919605M) on ebay but most of the screens being sold don't have the fascia piece. So can I use the piece from my original 6.5" screen with the replacement 8" screen? Many thanks!

Car is back from my local garage and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. The mechanic said the prop shaft coupler looks fine, and i had a look too and it does look ok (photo attached). There are some tears but otherwise looks fine. It's booked in for a haldex service in Jan. Hopefully that will resolve it. For the past two weeks the car has been driving fine with no juddering or issues moving from stationary.

Its done 113K miles.

Right-o, in that case I'll pop into my local garage this week and see if they'll jack it up to have a quick look. Haldex oil and filter was last done in Jan 2020, just after i bought the car. I've done about 20K miles since then.

I wondered if it was an issue with the clutch, or Dual mass fly wheel? Our C-max had something a bit similar that turned out was a knackered DMF.

@Rooted, i have no idea. But i have booked it into the local independent garage in a couple of weeks to investigate the issue, so i will ask them to check it.

hi all, My 2015 Octavia Scout has started vibrating at higher speeds. The vibration is constant at about 70 mph, but only seems to occur when the car is heavily loaded. By heavily loaded, i mean a boot full of suitcases, two kids in the back, two adults in the front. The vibration can be felt through the footwell and feels like the whole car is shaking. The other thing that is occurring is that the car is juddering sometimes after engaging the gear when releasing the clutch to accelerate from stationary or slow speeds - it feels like there isn't enough power to get the car moving. Again, this only seems to be happening when the car is heavily loaded. When i drove to work this morning with only me in the car, there was no vibration or juddering. Last week the car had a tyre puncture repaired, so i initially thought the vibration was due to the wheel being unbalanced, but now i know its only happening under heavy load it seems something else is causing it. Any suggestions? Many thanks