AlexTud

Hi guys, There is an online version as well below for VAG workshop manual - works for all group makes (Audi, VW, Skoda, Seat): https://superetka.com/elsa/?marke=C&modelljahr_numerisch=2006&vtyp=1Z3&mkb=BWA&gkb=JLW&dir=rl&dokument_id=44083876 Create free account, select Elsa Classic for ease of access / dropdown view for each section. Use Chrome or other browser which will automatically translate from Russian to English and you're lauging. Only thing is that a banner pops up every few minutes for 10 seconds or so but won't kill you. Hope this helps guys, enjoy your cars! 😁

Hi guys - price discount and ancillaries now included. Looking forward to hearing from you.

Hi guys, price discounted further - looking forward to some feedback, get in touch if you're interested. 😉

Hi guys, price discounted based on feedback and still negotiable hoping that it'll change hands to another passionate VAG performance member that'll take care of her as she deserves. Willing to do a deal including a completely rebuilt BWA engine (listed here as well) which comes with all auxilliaries, harness and spare 6 speed manual gearbox. Any constructive criticism and any inspection more than welcome guys, I doubt you'll find a better cherished and maintained example.

Make & Model: Skoda Octavia vRS Colour: Electric Blue Mileage: 104000 Price: £4495 (negotiable) Description: Extremely well preserved model and cared for like it was my second baby, this has been my pride and joy throughout my 3 years ownership. Xenon headlights, cruise control, amazing sound system, very spacious and nimble family car - in essence a MK5 GTI with a different shell. Never been remapped or abused, it has always been meticulously maintained and cleaned with a lot of time, effort and money invested in it. Has full dealership service history up 82K miles with tons of ensuing pro-active maintenance completed during my ownership (with proof). When I bought this car @82K miles it received a complete engine and gearbox with 28K miles onboard. Prior to install, the engine had a complete new OEM timing kit done (both ends), injectors were sent out for flow test and resealing (invoice and certificate available), received a new R8 coil pack set and NGK Iridium spark plugs, fuel filter was also replaced. In order to prevent common faults/known issues of the BWA engine I replaced the High Pressure Fuel Pump camshaft follower tappet, installed a PCV delete kit from Forge (to mitigate carbon build-up), and replaced the OEM Diverter Valve with a serviceable billet aluminium blow-off valve from Forge. All of this has been done to increase engine reliability and longevity. Also replaced all wheel bearings as a precaution. The vehicle also received new brakes last year which are OEM size but offer better performance: at the rear Brembo Drilled Performance Discs, Brembo Sport pads, new OEM (TRW) callipers with revised stainless steel pistons; at the front EBC Turbo Groove discs and Yellow Stuff pads, new calliper sliders and repainted. Last year it had a gearbox service with OEM VW transmission oil. Serviced every 4-5k miles only with Millers CFS Nanodrive 5w40, Bosch filters (OEM), had latest full service at ODO reading 100600, along with: new batterry, boot struts, wipers, AC condenser (+seals), new AC switch, AC regas, new coolant radiator (coolant flushed and replaced), new thermostat, new front lower control arms. During my ownership it never turned a wheel until the engine reached idle RPM, never went above 2500RPM until coolant temp reached 90, always given 1-2 minutes to run at idle before shutting off, and only refuelled with Shell V-Power or Momentum 99 (fuel receipts available). Wheels refurbed last year, are as new. More pro-active maintenance completed than I can list, thank you for checking my advert, looking forward to hearing from you guys. Next MOT due 12/10/2023, Full service history, Blue, 2 previous owners, asking for £5995 but open to sensible offers. Car is in daily use and mileage will go up slightly. Will be serviced at/before 105K and willing to provide a service kit with it as well if sold before that. I have also rebuilt the car's original engine (listed on Briskoda as well) and am willing to do a discounted deal for the lot, including all engine ancillaries and gearbox. Condition: Great condition, mechanically bulletproof, minor stone chips on the front Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: Proof of purchase of complete engine+gearbox with £28K miles (including donor vehicle details, which was written off due to pillar A damage after hitting a deer). Receipt/invoices for all consumables and most new parts installed, bar small things (i.e new badges, new window switches witch were sourced from TPS through contacts in the motor trade as they don't deal with consumers). I even have 98% of the fuel receipts - all for premium fuel. Extras: 18in Zenith alloys (as new), Xtreme HID Xenon kit fitted (nice slight blue tint matching the car), OEM cruise control retrofitted by Awesome GTI Manchester, Climatronic Dual Zone AC, chilled glovebox, magnificent sound system (factory fitted but would put most new cars to shame!), Front seats adjustable 6 directions + adjustable lumbar support. Mods: DV replaced with Forge billet aluminium DV with built-in BOV, Forge PCV delete kit. Shipping: Could potentially deliver within reasonable distance if deposit is paid to cover for time and fuel (non refundable) Collection: Yes, from Bolton, BL6 (near to Bolton Stadium / Middlebrook Retail Park). Pictures:

Make & Model: BWA 2.0L TFSI rebuilt engine - to Fit Skoda Octavia vRS MK2 / Seat Leon FR / VW Golf GTI MK5 / Audi A3/A4/TTS Colour: NA Mileage: NA Price: £1000 Description: Completely rebuilt BWA Engine - block and head - equivalent to a new engine straight from the factory! Whilst this was meant to be a personal project to build an uprated spare engine for my vRS MK2 with upgraded internals, new personal circumstances made me decide to part with my beloved Octy (also listed on Briskoda) and rebuild this engine to factory spec for a VAG enthusiast to enjoy in their car. Built to manufacturer specifications using the VAG workshop manual, by a highly qualified and skilled VAG enthusiast mechanic who has worked on these engines in the past, all seals, gaskets, bearings and bolts (in line with workshop manual indications) were replaced and torqued to manufacturer spec and requirements. As can be seen in pics no expense has been spared and it had new crankshaft and camshaft bearings, new piston seals, a complete new timing kit done (both belt and chain side with new VVT, new heavy duty full metal water pump). The engine head has been sent out for cleaning, checking and resurfacing and benefitted from a complete overhaul with new valves, rockers and seals prior to rebuild. During the rebuild the engine also had the oil pump fitted (active balancers, new seal and chain) and oil sump (version without sump sensor but can provide the one accommodating the sensor as well if desired, for free). First pics are of the completed rebuild, followed by the seals and gaskets that will come with it (for ancillaries) and more pics of rebuild in stages as well as new kits and parts used. I can offer ancillaries as well for free, for the buyer to fit - I have all parts needed for a complete engine, apart from radiators and ECU, including complete engine electrical harness, pipes and hoses, and a fully working 6 speed manual gearbox (82K miles). Warranty offered with asking price, conditioned upon: The engine being installed by a certified mechanic in a garage, have it running for 3-4 hours at idle after install, then replacing the oil and oil filter prior to use and having an oil service at 500 miles after install. With all new parts, the engine needs to be run in first without abuse, as any decent mechanic would advise you. Condition: As New!! Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: Receipts can be provided for parts used in the rebuild. Extras: Can offer all ancillaries for complete engine - for buyer to fit. Can provide the engine mounts as well. Shipping: Considered if buyer supports shipping costs and pays for engine beforehand. Can arrange to deliver myself for extra charges within 200 miles radius from Bolton / Manchester after a £200 deposit received. Collection: Yes, from BL6 - near Middlebrook Retail Park / Bolton Stadium. Pictures:

Hi mate, I found the workshop manual online: http://superetka.com/elsa Register there, free of charge. The only thing is an annoying banner which pops up every now and then - you can remove this by paying $3/month or $15/year (yes it is dollars). Found this thanks to another bloke posting something about Elsa Online, I prefer this one though (both are up and running thanks to the same guy). Cheers

Hi bud, try the link below, register if needed and you can access all data: https://t.me/kolhosniki_en Got this off a link mentioned earlier in this topic - kudos to the person that posted this originally, yearly cost way less than what I'd have paid to offset the 5-6 hours spent trying to get the old image up and running on VirtualBox Select ELSA online or classic (recommend as it's better organised) and create a username and password. Annoying banner there if you want free access, $3/month or $15/year to remove it and get access to VIN search. This is an online version of ELSA containing VAG workshop manuals - update compared to the version being mentioned in the thread for the past few years. You can select make/model/year/engine to get the specs for yours. It is a dealer's workshop manual with all possible details, most likely better than the Haynes manual. Hope this helps you get that car back on the road swiftly so you can enjoy it. 😉

Thanks for coming back to me on it. Found Elsa Online for the moment and seems to have enough info for me to proceed with the rebuild, push comes to shove I'll buy the Haynes manual. The engine is not on the car, it's basically a spare one I was rebuilding for it when I bought the car (got it as spares or repairs running on 3cylinders), until I found a low mileage (29k) complete engine+gearbox for a steal price. I had this spare one preserved (oiled up, wrapped all parts) and shelfed for almost 2 years now - everything was cleaned and ready to put back together prior to buying the other engine. Had the engine head skimmed and rebuilt completely (valves, springs, rockers, etc) and all parts for a complete engine (+gearbox) are there, bar a timing kit which I've used for the engine I have in the car. Still not decided on whether to rebuild it entirely including ancilliaries or block + head only - it'll be up for grabs once it's completed (still thinking I might do with keeping the spare turbo, HPFP, injectors were flow tested and resealed, AC compressor, etc). 😛

Guys, just an update on uploading the file, which is 2.4GB. Can't seem to get it up on fole sharing websites and seems to keep getting an error around 88% Will keep trying and come back on this.

Hi mate, is the manual any good though? I'm rebuilding a BWA engine (MK2 1Z3) so would need all the detailed diagrams, info (torques, etc). Just like you I got stung with a useless manual I paid for before. I still have the file which was uploaded a million times in the thread but can't seem to get it loaded with VirtualBox (running on Windows 10) anymore if my life depended on it. Will upload for free download in case someone else manages to use it. Link to follow shortly. Thanks

Hahaha, good to know! I'll take advantage while it lasts! 🤣

Thanks @MicMac really helpful this. @KenONeill my bad, was only moving the lens a bit (1 full rotation of the screws) so I couldn't notice any improvement, the headlight is fine. I managed to get the lens centered using the low beam adjustment screws. I've fitted the headlight back in and waiting for it to get dark so I can adjust it a bit. Will most likely take into a garage for final adjustments as my MOT is due within 4 weeks. Cheers guys!

Any idea how/if that can be done by any chance? Cheers

Hi guys, hoping to get an answer here for my issue. Is there any way to horizontally adjust the lens only (main beam) by any chance? Seems like mine is off center towards the exterior on the LH/NS headlight and for the life of me I can't figure it out at all !? Tried adjusting all 3 nuts (the one at the back and the 2 at the front but those don't do the trick. Any other adjustments in the headlight itself that might do it? I've attached pics of both headlights for comparison and the back of the defective one

I had a bank 1 rich code on mine as well at one point and deleted it after I replaced the DV and MAP on it, never came back on so couldn't say if it was related to these or not. You should be fine if you keep an eye on it after you delete it and doesn't come back on constantly. Great that your car is back up and running well, hope it stays that way and you enjoy it! Taking mine in for the work in a couple of hours, replacing all injectors, cleaning the IM, swirl flaps, accelerator flap, etc and installing the Forge PCV delete + DV and blow-off kit. It will take a few hours but well worth it (especially with the upgrade parts). I'll let you know how I get on and what I find in there. Thanks for all the pointers in the post guys, I'll make sure to make good use of the knowledge. 😉

Did you connect a tester after the ticking noise started? Any fuel/air mix issue code there (running too lean)? The shut off sound is normal qccording to my mechanic - throtthle valve positioning check - you probably didn't notice it before.

Sounds like a good plan. Measuring the oil consumption should be indicative once it's sorted. Like I said, mine did burn quite a bit when I've refitted the PCV, even though the oil is still clear - 400ml in less that 1k miles is a lot to me but I did drive it hard at times. It'll be interesting to see what I find in there on Saturday on a 30-31K miles engine. Let us know how you get on, always curious to learn new things.

Didn't mean to pester, hope I didn't come across that way. It's good that you have your heart set on what you want to do, I was just hoping that a second opinion would help you out. As I said, I'm not a skilled mechanic and I wouldn't dare tackle this injectors job on my own, hence having to wait for weekend slots to get it done by a qualified mechanic. Hope it all goes well and you get your car back on the road quick!

I've sent these to my mechanic as well for a second look at them, maybe he'll have a different opinion with clearer pics. Anything involving taking the head off would be expensive and it kind of tends to increase in price as you find more and more parts to replace in it and may well end up with a complete rebuild of the head if you're planning to keep the car for a long time. I know this because originally I planned to have the car's rebuilt engine (done by my mechanic) put back in it and I know how much money was spent on parts alone - the head parts were the most expensive bit. I ended up getting a 28k miles engine (complete, with proof) + gearbox for the deal of a lifetime off eBay so decided to go with that instead. Helps that my mechanic is also my brother-in-law, so I basically got the car with lifetime warranty and cheap labour! =)) The things is these engines need a lot of care and maintenance (ideally serviced every 5-7k) and high grade consumables. I've had mine on the road since November 2020 and probably spent more time tinkering with it than driving it, but I am using it as a second car/weekend joyride as I have a company car as well. Hope it's not the valves but will get back to you as soon as he tells me anything.

It might be the PCV, on the picture I can see off my phone I can't see a shiny area on the valves but you've had them in front of you. The intermittent 3 cylinders running and delayed return to idle speed could also be caused by the oil loss through the valves seals though and will also cause your PCV not to work as it should due to the loss of vacuum in the engine. If you're certain that the valves seals are fine though, the PCV is the usual suspect. What's the engine mileage and do you know uf the PCV has been replaced at some point? They do tend to fail - there's a reason why this part has been revised 10-12 times by VAG throughout the history of the 2.0L TFSI/TSI. I take it the aftermarket PCV on yours was $10? Not a good sign when it comes to how the previous owner took care of the car if so.

Also, my mechanic said that you'd have a vacuum problem given this (PCV would not work as it should) and you should have noticed that your engine is not running smoothly prior to this, even though it'd still have pull (while burning oil).

Showed your pics of the IM to my mechanic and he believes that your valve seals are shot. That's where you're losing oil and it's getting burned. He compared your picture to the ones from @TheClient and you can see a shiny bit on the valves in his, meaning the seals are intact. On yours it's all black so he deducted they are done. Unless the pictures are misleading!? Saying that your PCV might be fine but that means that your engine head might need work which is not good as the cost is greater.

That sounds about right - I paid about £90+ for mine including the seal. With mine being an older version it makes sense I guess. Funny about the PCV blanking plate as I spoke to Forge after I posted earlier and they said that it would fit a CCZA engine. But I do trust this forum more than a random guy at the other end of the phone + he did not sound that confident either come to think about it. PCV failure would not give a code on mine - loss of power and rough idle (I think a high idling rpm as well) would be the sign that it failed. I would not take any chances with random aftermarket parts - it took me weeks and weeks to locate an issue (variating idle speed) which was caused by a stupid aftermarket blow-off valve - hence the purchase of a complete DV+blowoff from Forge,. This was the reason I've taken the PCV blanking plate off and reinstalled a new PCV while I was troubleshooting with my mechanic, so I thought it's best I go with original parts or a proper performance parts manufacturer from now on.

PCV delete kit link below. Would recommend buying from Forge directly for peace of mind (see warranty). https://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/product-filter/product-category,deletes/skoda,octavia+>+2.0+fsit I have the BWA engine code but PCV is identical as far as I know. You can get in touch with Forge and ask if this fits yours to make sure - you can fit this anytime after you've done the injectors job. The PCV I have on mine (still on it until Saturday) is the exact same part my mechanic received for a 08 plate A4 quattro 2.0 Tfsi (which I believe was a CCZA engine code but not 100% sure). He compared them out of curiosity as he ordered them separately.