Benturner166

Hello all I have standard 195/ 55/ r15 tyre size alloys. What is the biggest tyre/alloy wheels that can fit on the car without any sort of rubbing ? Suspension is stock. If anyone has any bigger rims that are for sale I would be interested.

Hello all Just thought i would update. So I have checked the wiring and its okay. Checked the plug and theres no corosion. Pins are opened up so I have closed them a little bit to make better contact. Pulled the sensor and its okay, not blocked with carbon. So with that I reset the codes and I have done about 300 miles. Nothing has come back yet.

Hi guys thanks for the suggestions. Car still has a dpf and doesn't have any sooting up issues. The code is for the heating element inside the sensor being open/ short circuit. I will pull the sensor and check it out for carbon since it is straight after the turbo. If I knew the pins I could do a resistance check on the sensor. Maybe a haynes manual would cover that but not sure.

Hello all I had this code previously and replaced the o2 sensor with a NGK lambda sensor. 5k miles later the code has come back and I am unsure of what to check without a diagram. Has any one got a wiring diagram for the engine ? Engine code is CAYB Or has anyone had the same issue and know a common spot for wiring to short together/ break. Or have I been unlucky and this o2 sensor is broken. The car is mapped and the exhaust would get quite toasty. Thankyou

Hello there You make a good point. I have a 4 poster and a truck workshop at my disposal. Have the jacks to support the engine and gearbox. If it really is a pain I might give it to someone else but I do prefer working on my own vehicle.

Hello all My skoda is going through a sugar daddy phase 😂. After having 4 injectors, cambelt, thermostat, lambda sensor and a couple vacuum lines the clutch has decided to start slipping. Yes it is remapped but the clutch has been handling it for the past 12k miles. Pedal was quite high when I brought the car anyway... I am planning on fitting a sachs clutch. Just asking for advice on how to do a clutch on these. All help would be appreciated.

Its behind the alternator and below the fuel pump on the left of the intake manifold. Its a ****er to do...

Hello all Its a couple weeks later and I have changed the thermostat. Its a **** job to be plain and honest. Took me 3 hours in the end but I am a HGV technician and do not touch cars unless mine needs work. If you have limited mechanical experience I recommend chucking it into the garage rather than attempting this on the driveway. Either way the car now sits happily at 90*c and my heater is able to melt my face off. The odd regens have stopped aswell which is a bonus.

Hello thanks for your reply. Im not sure on the history so it probably has never had a thermostat. Im using a multifunctional obd2 plugin gauge ( Autool x60) to read the temperature as I also have the blue dummy light and the engine is cooked light lol . I do believe these have multiple coolant sensors so would be unsure on which one. But it reads all the way from cold so I would assume its one on the block and not the one on the radiator exit. I think im going to bite the bullet and do a thermostat on it. Apparently its a pain in the arse crammed right under the intake and fuel pump so looking forward to that 😂 If anyone has ever done one a link to a youtube vid or pictures on how to do it would be appreciated. Its going to have to wait a couple weeks but ill get round to it

Hello all. As you all know winter is coming and this will be my first winter with this car. I have a temp/boost gauge fitted because the car is mapped to 150hp. Anyway with the colder temps my coolant temp sits at about 72*c on the motorway and will never go above 80*c even with sustained WOT. The car only gets to 90*c when doing a normal regen in traffic. The odd issue ; When the coolant temp drops to 68*c the car starts doing a regen but as soon as the temp gets above 70*c it stops. Only drops this low when doing 30 mph with the heaters on. Would we suggest that the car wants a thermostat and that it only regens to try keep the engine temp up ? I do frequent long journeys and In the summer the car used to regen about every 300 miles depending on the sort of driving I did.

Massive shame to hear that. Hope your okay and not shaken up. If you like the skodas maybe its time to get a 1.6tdi

My 1.6 tdi was sluggish off the line before I got it rolled back and remapped. (90hp to 150hp 😀) Being a 1.2tdi it is not going to be a rocketship. My 1.6 only starts to boost after 1600 rpm because of the dpf restriction. I would say bite the bullet on a rollback and remap. 1.2 tdi will go from 73hp to 100hp and 180nm to 225nm of torque roughly. Thats enough to make quite the difference. Do another service with good oil. Good fuel filter, good air filter and try that if that is within budget.

Hello thankyou for this reply. I have since put a good few hours of motorway driving to clean everything out. Turns out it has a high idle until you put the handbrake on then it comes back down to around 700 rpm. Might be a assist for pulling off. I will look into buying a obd reading just so I can monitor the temperature. Its more so I can make sure the car is warmed up before the heavy foot comes out 😂 and to make sure the temp stays at 90 with a prolonged heavy foot on the motorway. Goes pretty well for 90hp must admit.

No its got the basic dash

Hello everyone. I have just purchased my second skoda. Love the car, 76 mpg on national speed roads. Is it possible to read the coolant/ oil temp on the basic dash. Or do I need a basic bluetooth obd dongle for that Also I noticed a sort of hot smell/ diesel exhaust and a high idle of 1000rpm after a 12 mile drive. Is this just a dpf regen or something I should take a quick look into. Thanks In advance