DuncanDisorderly

Howdy all, looking at new front shockers for my 2015 Scout, but there's different fitments available. I'm away at work at the moment and was hoping to order them so they'll be ready as soon as I get home. Am I right in thinking the Scout has 55mm diameter shockers on the front?

Just been through months of pain diagnosing the Stop/Start system on mine, only to find it was as simple as an incorrectly coded battery causing the fault. For yours, battery type should be Fleece, 70ah and serial number can be anything except what's currently there.

I'm really annoyed with myself for taking other people's word that it was coded. Incidentally, the VAG specialist who condemned the first battery told me that these batteries didn't need to be coded in (after they condemned the new battery and fitted a replacement, I specifically asked them to make sure it was coded in). The auto-electrics specialist did find and fix a wiring fault, and re-coded the battery with a handheld tool rather than a scan tool. Just annoyed with myself that when I had use of VCDS the first time (to check the stop/start minimum voltage hadn't been fiddled) I didn't check the battery coding at the same time. Now, the original battery that was on the car when I got it that had been left flat for months, I assumed would be shot so replaced it. I charged it with a smart charger a few months ago. Checked it this morning and its still got 12. 1v in it, that *might* actually be still use able!

Just a thought, you say no difference in reading with the hose on or off, that's quite a narrow bore hose, could it be blocked?

Seen this type of spurious fault many times on different vehicles (HGVs), usually down to a module gone wrong, causes noise on the CAN network, which then messes everything else up. Gives the impression of multiple faults, in effect its only one fault, but hard to find. In my experience, ECUs are very rarely faulty, when they are there's nearly always evidence of water ingress. Only way to trace this kind of fault is to unplug each non-critical module one at a time, until the fault goes. This can only be done while the fault is 'live', it's a nightmare when it's an intermittent fault. Replacing a wiring loom or ECU should be an absolute last resort in my opinion.

Well this is a bit embarrassing, what a difference it makes having the right tools for the job. Battery coding was previously done with a handheld unit (not mine). Checked the 4 battery coding adaptions this morning: Manufacturer, VOL Type, Fleece Serial number, random AH, was set at 7ah instead of 70ah. No wonder it thinks the battery is almost flat 😂 AmpHours now corrected, battery serial number +1 and graphed. Quick run around town and the stop/start is working perfectly! Moreso the charge rate looks more like it should (12.3v steady with ignition, dipped to 10.5v cranking, elevated to 14.3 running) now it knows its charging a 70ah battery, not a 7ah unit 🙄 Thanks for your help guys

Thanks Varooom, that link is a great help, explains exactly what components contribute to the system. I've got a laptop working, and downloaded VCDS. Just thought it was a long shot, but I had a 2002 A6 All Road years ago and remember buying a RossTech adapter for it. Didn't hold much hope, but dug it out the garage and it works! It's a HEX-USB+Can. Also found an old K-line adapter, can't even remember what I got that for. I've connected the car up and tested the ports, it's all good to go. I'll have a set-to with it tomorrow and see what's going on. Thanks for your support so far!

The battery monitor on the negative battery terminal, is there a way to reset this? As in, can I clear its memory (if it has one), reset everything and charge the battery off the car? Reconnect and recode the battery and and let it relearn the parameters?

I understand that mate, bit frustrating when it's ALWAYS showing, under all driving conditions. 5 mins after startup is fair enough, but 3 hours into a 5 hour motorway run it shouldn't be there.

Hi, the radio doesn't switch off whilst driving, after about 5 mins of the engine being off but the ignition on, I get the '12v low, charge by driving' and 'Infotainment will switch off' messages, suggesting the battery is flat. I'd frigged the bonnet switch to get everything to shut down, took about 10mins IIRC. Failing alternator makes sense. I've had it tested though and it couldn't be faulted, and I like to prove faults before replacing parts, otherwise things get very expensive very fast! Have checked the stop-start modules with VCDS, it has the correct reference voltage (7.6v) stored, and is activated. I only checked this after reading methods on here to disable the system.

Nothing, everything turned off. I used to leave the mirror heaters on, but not any more. Same 'High Power Consumption' message with all the consumers turned off. And dashcam (hardwired to a spare switched fuse slot behind the glove box, I've checked this is powering off with the ignition off) and phone charger disconnected.

Aye, I've got a Fluke multimeter and DC amp clamp, nothing showed on the amp clamp, so measured across the battery negative, very little draw (there was some draw, bu the type that'd take months to drain a battery).

Ahh I see, on these Octys it seems it's a chew on getting it to stop working when it's not wanted, hence the various workarounds. Not as straight forward as disconnecting a wire. Just another thought, I get that new alternators are effectively smart chargers, does the fact the charge rate drops right down whilst driving not suggest the battery is properly charged? More to the point the car knows it's charged?

Only with my good old-fashioned amp clamp. No draw when the car is switched off and properly shut down (takes a while for all the modules to power down I guess).

Thanks, I knew the new battery wasn't knackered, but that's the route they took with the diagnosis, and they were the experts. The new battery was coded in with VCDS, the screenshots are from the torque app. I don't leave it plugged in permanently was just looking to see what the voltages are on the fly. Thanks for those pics, trouble is unlike the majority of posts on here, I want my stop/start to work, rather than disabled. Actually, I just want to get to the bottom of the problem.