stephmobile

I used MTB Protex. I initially used 40mm but that is too narrow to cope with the curved corners, 100mm is better.

I taped mine up in May 2022 and it is still intact, the summer heat does not appear to have affected it, and it is parked outside, never under cover. I used bike frame protection tape from Amazon. It is probably the same stuff that Skoda use on the rear passenger doors to protect from stone chips. I didn't use helicopter tape as I had no need to paint it. Chris

I taped mine as well. Not leaked since.

Thanks Urell, very helpful, for other things as well as the undertray. Chris

I need to get one for my car as I now find out it has not got one. Is the undertray for diesel manual and auto 4x4 the same? I know the petrol ones are different. Anyone got a part number for the auto 4x4 diesel one please for e.bay reference? Also, anyone got a fitting diagram. silly question on the face of it but from E Bay pictures there appears to be 4 (2 pairs) bolt holes within the main body of the tray as opposed to the holes around the edges. Chris

I have a yeti with a 13 plate ,bought last year and had it in for it's first service in my ownership yesterday. Being a bit of an antique I have to own up to never having looked underneath the car (takes far too long to get back up) and I am told there is no engine undertray fitted. Can anyone give me the part number for this please. The car is a 1968cc diesel automatic 4 x 4. There appears to be different undertrays for petrol or diesel so I want to get the right one, but not from my main dealer. Does it being a 4x4 automatic make it any different to the undertray from a manual or a manual/4 x 4? Chris

Thanks Muppix, I would still like to know about removing the wind deflector. If I take out all of the Torx screws that I can see, will the deflector come off in one piece without springs flying off in all directions? Also, what sort of sealant are you referring too?

This article is the bees knees, thanks, but I have 2 questions-you say that the repair can be done without any dismantling, but I have looked down into the channel with the roof open, from the outside, and cannot, for the life of me, see the joint where the magic liquid has to go. Do I have to remove the wind deflector first to be able to see it, and is this achieved by simply removing all the Torx screws that appear to be holding it in place? My Yeti L & K is a 13 plate with only about 24000 miles on it. It is parked outside so fixing the leaked is a priority. Thanks again. Chris

In view of the number of very badly set up lights you see see around I think that some people think it will go in whichever way they like. It's not all down to bad aiming. I remember many years ago a work colleague had anew Capri ( I said it was many years ago) and one of her headlights was all wrong. the dip beam was all over the place. I told her this and she returned it to the main dealer where they dealt with it by adjusted the aim so that the pool of light was just a couple of feet or so in front of the car. I had to sort it out for her, the bulb was not seated correctly.

When I had my first Fabia in 2002 and later on, an Octavia, all I did to get the second rear foglight to work was to run a length of cable from the working light through the boot under the carpet, to the second light and connect it to the bulb holder in the relevant place for the second filament. I was given the cable with the correct connectors by my local main dealer. It all worked fine and no reprogramming or whatever was ever done to my knowledge. Admittedly the cars were 2002 and 2004 so things may have changed since then. Chris

Thanks for the replies. The charges quoted don't seem too severe in view of what you have said, except the £215 for the DSG , but as the car is now 9 years old perhaps it is a time related thing? The usual price , as quoted by them, for the cam belt and water pump change is well over the £600 they are quoting at the moment. I have delayed the service now anyway due to the dreaded Covid 19 infection.

I had a Yeti several years ago and now have a 13 plate Laurent and Klement DSG, with only 23000 miles on it. The previous car was 2 wheel drive and the current one is 4 x 4, and is now due for a service. Although I have signed up for a service scheme with my very local main dealer,I am being quoted the best part of £1000 , mainly made up of oil and filter changes ( if required) for the gearbox and Haldex and £600 for the timing belt. As the car has such a low mileage for the year are these charges valid, on an age basis or are they correct, in which case why were they not included in the service scheme? I have the service booked for next Tuesday but will postpone it as have picked up the dreaded covid 19, will give me a chance to sort this out.

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I think it may be coming from the spare wheel area so various bits of padding have been used and we will see what happens.

Thanks, will have to keep ear to ground so to speak to sort this out. I seem to remember this coming up on this forum a few years ago. Chris

Hi stonyb1, did you find someone in Worcester who do this? Chris

Thanks for these suggestions folks. I think I may have sorted it out in the spare wheel and tools area. Thanks again Chris

Thanks for the suggestions, I will investigate

I used to have a 2010 reg 2 wheel drive Yeti that developed a rattle that appeared to come from behind the dash but could not be traced. I sold it it eventually, still rattling. I have just bought another Yeti, 2013 reg L & K spec, and after a day of ownership there is an untraceable(to me )rattle. I think it comes from the front, her ladyship thinks it comes from the rear. Is this rattling a common Yeti problem? Chris