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Anyways, next week I'll take the car to the service. I want to replace the spark plugs, maybe ignition coils, and have the throttle body cleaned & inspected. I'll report back if the issue will disappear after the servicing.

Does this engine have an IAC (idle air control) valve? I read this might be the culprit for the issue I'm having.

I bought the car last year, and it was serviced in December. These were changed: oil, filters (oil, gasoline, air), water pump, accessory belt. Other that that, I had the turbo removed, inspected, and cleaned, because the P0234 overboost fault code showed up. But the problem was actually with the N75 valve, which was eventually replaced. Yesterday I believe I noticed something related to the current issue. It was again under braking, in neutral. A few meters before coming to a stop the engine revs went up a bit, for 1 second or so (obviously without me touching the throttle pedal).

Not sure how helpful it is, but I have just checked for fault codes using a bluetooth OBD2 scanner and the Torque Lite app, and it says there are no logged fault codes.

Hello, this happened to me today: I was slowing down while approaching a traffic light. After changing gears to neutral and a few meters before coming to a stop, the engine struggled a bit for one second or so, and then just stalled. It felt like trying to stop while being in 2nd-3rd gear (without depressing the clutch) , but with less vibration. Any idea what kind of issue could cause this? I also notice that sometimes the idle is not constant, the RPM's go a bit lower for some seconds, and then back up. My car is a Octavia MK2 combi 2012, with 1.4TSI engine.

I found out what is wrong. A part of the right radiator fan is broken/missing. Looks like the right fan starts every time when the AC is on, and obviously when the engine needs cooling (more so when driving slowly with the engine warm). The part in the red rectangle is missing (picture from the web); I can't see much without having the radiator fan frame removed, hopefully neither the frame nor the radiator are damaged. I will definitely go to a service to have the fan replaced, but I was thinking of buying the fan myself. The only thing written on the visible part of the fan is "Siemens VDO" and after some googling I found out it's either VDO A2C59511338 or VDO A2C59511340. Both are physically the same (292.9mm), but the first is rated 150W and the second 200W. Browsing aftermarket parts shops, I see I get options ranging from diameter 290 to 295mm, with power consumption going from 150W to 220W. If what I'm now having on the car is 293mm and 150W, could I buy a 295mm 200W? Or should the wattage exactly match? I don't expect the 2mm diameter difference to be a problem. Also, there are quite a few brands available: Topran, Nissens, Autogamma, Mahle, Febi Bilstein, SWAG, NRF, Thermix. The price difference between these is not that big. Is there a brand I should prefer?

🤷‍♂️ I don't know, I already mentioned I do not know much about cars, this being my first one (I got it only 6 months ago). Thanks for your answer. I'll go for a short drive this evening, to see if I can gather any more useful information about the issue.

Oh it makes sense, so with the engine turned off, only the blower worked. Still, the vibration kicks in also when I'm not turning the AC on.

I was away for a few days, but today I arrived home and was able to drive my car again. I am now sure that the issue is not AC related. The AC works fine if the engine is turned off (with ignition on). I can now also confirm the last part of my initial post, when idling or driving very slowly, the vibration slowly kicks in. This is my first car, and I don't know much about the inner workings of a car, but it seems to me that the issue could be with some part involved in the system that adjusts the RPM of the engine in order to be able to produce enough current.

Hello, something bad happened today with Octavia 2 2012 1.4 TSI. I was driving in the city, with the AC turned on, when the car suddenly did a loud clunk sound. From that moment on, a loud vibration was to be heard and felt. At first, I thought it was related to suspension/steering, but after turning off the AC, the vibration disappeared. When turning the AC back on, the loud vibration resumed. Regardless, the blower/fan works fine with AC turned off. Until now, this sounds like some AC issue, but I think that I can also feel now a bit of the same vibration at idle, or when driving very slow in first gear. I'm not 100% sure about this last part, though. Any idea what went wrong? The vibration at idle is maybe just in my mind, I need to do some more driving/listening.

Hi guys, thanks for the advice. I went to the car today to check the things you've mentioned, but to my surprise the issue is completely gone. I didn't touch the car since the issue occurred, on Thursday. Now it works perfectly, just as it did before. That's obviously a good thing, but I'm still wondering what was going on, on Thursday. Maybe the cold temperature made some oil/grease stiff?

I have a manual transmission Octavia MK2 1.4 TSI. Yesterday after doing some shopping, I came home and reversed into my parking spot, as usual. When I had to leave home today, the car wouldn't engage reverse. It's like something prevents the gear stick to enter into the reverse position. I am able to press the stick down and move it to the left, but it won't move all the way up, into R. After a quick read here on the forum, I tried "pumping" the clutch a few times, and disengaging the handbrake while moving the stick, but I still can't select reverse. I can't see the the sense in this, as everything was fine 20 hours ago. Last night was the coldest this winter, with -14°C. Could the temperature somehow cause this issue?

Thanks softscoop. Although quite expensive for what they are, I'm looking into centre caps. After some research, I believe Caddy caps with the code 2K0601149D9B9 would fit my wheels (15" 5x112). I like that the 'VOLKWSWAGEN' text is quite subtle on those.

Hi, I just swapped the alloy summer wheels with steel wheel and winter tires. I noticed that only the rear wheels have a cap that cover the central area, see the attached picture. Are there some caps I can buy for the front wheels? The area is quite rusted and doesn't look too good.

I have an appointment with the dealer on 2nd December. Is there a way they can tell the condition of the chain/tensioner without taking everything apart? The car seems to run and sound fine, but I like to be better safe than sorry (and poor). I read in some places that 1.4 TSI's built after 2010/2012 have an improved chain / tensioner, which is much less likely to cause trouble. Unfortunately I didn't save the links.

Alright, thanks. The only thing I'm a afraid of is not to make a habit of cruising with too low RPMs, causing harm to the engine without realizing.

I recently bought an Octavia MK2 1.4 TSI, built October 2012, with 120.000km. I know a big problem with this engine is the timing chain(+tensioner), which can break and mess up the entire engine. Reading the forum, I learned that a soon to fail chain will be rattling and be noisy at idle or when starting up a cold engine. I can't hear any rattling noises on my engine, but as this is the first 1.4 TSI I'm listening to, my observation is not too relevant. I definitely plan to check with a Skoda service if my chain needs to be replaced. Until then, I made a recording with a cold start of the engine: Does it sound healthy to you ?

I recently bought an used Octavia mk2 1.4 TSI, and want to learn what's the best RPM to change gears / keep the engine at. The gear change indicator seems to suggest upshifting very early, sometimes I'm driving at 50 km/h in 3th gear and the indicator says I should change to 5th. I imagine the answer to my question is "it depends", so to narrow it down, these are the factors I care about the most: Health of engine / turbo Fuel economy Power / torque. Should I just listen to the gear change indicator? Or keep in mind something like: Never go below 1000rpm, upshift at 2000rpm.

I didn't check the brake discs diameter yet, but I found this site showing different tire sizes for each engine. For my 1.4 TSI the listed wheel sizes are only 16" and 17", 15" isn't listed. Other engines like the 1.2 TSI or 1.6 TDI also list the 15" options. Is this any sort of indication that my car could not fit 15" wheels? Regardless, the tire options listed on my fuel filler flap include 15" tires:

Alright, that's it, I'm getting 15" rims and 195/65R15 Contis. Cheers !

Thanks for the advice Looks like the 16" sets are 1.3x more expensive than the 15". What about traction on dry cold (-5 - 5° C) tarmac ? Would the 0.4" width difference make much of a difference ?

Actually I believe I'm gonna go with the Conti tires, that means the only two options I have left are: 6.5Jx16 205/55R16 6Jx15 195/65R15 This is how they compare visually (tiresize.com):

I just bought a second hand Octavia MK2 which came with 7Jx17 ET54 wheels (and 225/45R17 summer tires). I want to buy a set of steel wheels to use during the cold months, but am not sure what size to pick. These wheels-tires combo would fit: 7Jx16 215/55R16 6.5Jx16 205/55R16 6Jx16 195/60R16 6.5Jx15 205/60R15 6Jx15 195/65R15 Considering I will be driving quite rarely on snow, and much more often on cold dry & wet roads, what dimension should I be choosing? Tire wise I'm considering Continental WinterContact TS 870, Bridgestone Blizzak LM005, Michelin Pilot Alpin 5, but that is another story.

I couldn't find any with that engine, in my price range.

Hi, I'm looking to buy an used Octavia 2 combi facelift. I will be mostly using the car on rural roads and highways. I'm also ok with less powerful engines (105 hp). In my price range, I found cars with mileage ranging between 140k and 170k kilometers. In this range, what engine would you recommend? 1.6 TDI 105cp 1.4 TSI 122cp 1.8 TSI 160cp (some come with 4x4 or DSG) 1.2 TSI 105cp 2.0 TDI 140cp These are the variants I find, in my price range. Options 1 and 2 are the most frequent, 3 and 4 rarer, and the 2.0tdi only comes up in two ads. I'm basically looking for the engine with the lowest chance of having issues, considering the mentioned mileage. Ideally, I don't want to spend money on fixing things after buying the car. Thanks