craycrayfrog

As in title whenever it rains my doors and boot hatch fill with water so opening my doors a litre or so will drain from the bottom of my doors and boot lock latch. This happens consistently after heavy rain and often surprises me when the ground is bone dry the next day.

I’m over 100,000 miles and wondering what maintenance should be done or expected to do be done. I’ve got the MOT due next week so I’m sure they will force something onto me but I’ve just done Timing belt done last year at 92.5k miles. Oil change with pump, new oil filter and shell 550046307, the same fuel as last year. P2015 engine fault solved with eBay repair bracket for 2010 plastic manifolds. This initially triggered a p2006 code but has cleared with a few days of short trips(an OBD reset wouldn’t clear it). Clutch working fine

Just found the parts guy in a dealership and ordered a speaker washer and front mids, he couldn’t find the suitable washer part for the rears. I’ll order a Chinesium 3 way crossover now and suitable holesaw and speaker grill once I know correct sizing.

They’re vinyl not leather

All nonsense like you don’t know what the words mean. An external amp would only be useful to make this louder and dsp is overly complicated.

Seen that as googling for hours. Seems to be mounts shared from golf mk6 or superb mk2 but would involve making a hole in the vinyl then putting a grill over that.

Has anyone done a 3 way component speaker mod on a octavia 2? I’ve been thinking about this way too long and the issue with the sound doesn’t seems to be that everything is played through the big 6.5” woofer so nothing sounds crisp and you end up turning the volume up to hear vocals. I think adding a crossover and a mid range driver and crossover to sort this. it would be awesome if someone’s already done the work.

europe is metric if you want imperial to be correct you have to convert yourself rather than figures intended for magazine reading.

On a 15yo engine losing 6.6 horsepower overall horsepower doesnt seem unusual it could be a combination of wear, gearbox oil, dirty injectors, turbo wear, carbon build up. If theres some dips unexpected dips in the power graph that would be where proper could guess the issue. PS car is rated as 125kw a metric measurement as stated on fuel filler flap not horspower convert it to find your horsepower rating.

Just do a poo before ya drive ya car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PAIxeQUSg-Q

Attempted to strip the engine down today to get to the thermostat and found I was missing triple square sockets which hold on the egr connecting pipe. I've ordered the relevant o-rings and gaskets so kind of annoying I got caught out so early. I dont see the need to mix triple square and torx.

I have the vag software somewhere just havent tried to use it. The stuff you're recommending is probably easier as i have a bluetooth ob I dont know what you mean by that. I didn't have a clue I was on winter diesel tbh I didnt think NW of england was cold enough for that.

It's never had a DPF regen havent seen any lights and have had some extended motorway journeys though it only does a 12 mile motorway journey once a week with the rest being approx 3 miles and I've ran redex dpf. I really expected a engine light but fair enough I'll try. I'm in the UK are you sure they change fuel its labelled as b7 at asda/tesco and theres a gulf locally. I didnt want to switch to shell but if its going to be significantly better? All code I'll use google to translate. I've had a check brake pad message on the display in wet weather and they were serviced in march with new pads by the dealer. Hopefully theres nothing up with the calipers.

My cars started getting significantly worse mpg than when I got it i'm averaging like 40mpg everywhere where I would get 50 plus if i did more than 5 miles before and I'm getting worse economy according to the display in 6th gear on the motorway than 5th. Any ideas what to look for as a cause for it? I got the car at 77k miles and its currently on 83500 miles and getting an oil change this week by me with new air and oil filters. I've noticed its not staying hot after getting upto temperature on the motorway then town driving so planning on changing the thermostat as well. I have noticed a wet spot behind the EGR valve and the screws around the turbo look a bit black so maybe leaking? I've never had a turbo or diesel car before just BMWs so would appreciate any advice.

Link to a guy whos done the speaker replacement as embedding doesnt work https://rmsmotoring.com/forum/threads/skoda-octavia-vrs-tdi-240bhp.202401/page-9

Not weird just a common thing to change parts and have an e46. You've done well selling those it wasnt hard to find looking at completed listings. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rainbow-Dream-Line-DL-C6-2-6-5-034-2-Way-Component-Speakers-/274724964475?epid=2037344046&hash=item3ff6e2487b%3Ag%3Aq~8AAOSwnXJgU6pY&nma=true&si=EQraG%2BTp8J29IjtsICGVTfCvYpQ%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 I'm looking at the speakers as stage 2 in my project once ive gotten the head unit, sub and camera in and have found a Alpine SPG-17CS which seems to be correct sizing. I also need to figure out mounting once I get the door apart, there seems to be mdf speaker rings available and other people seem to be adding sound deadening and 5mm rivnuts.

I want crisper audio and to be able to connect my phone for calls and music so CarPlay does that. I googled the octavia crossover and there does seem to be a single capacitor crossover but apparently replacing the crossover and teeter is enough that’s certainly something to investigate as turning up the audio sounds horrible.

For now I’ve settled with a pioneer sph-da120 from my old car which needs a new touch screen glass and a refurbed edge db7200 which is sold by Halfords(chain store if you’re from elsewhere) and apparently is labelled much higher wattage than its actual output. I looked at keeping the bolero but as there’s no reverse camera and very expensive to setup Bluetooth I’d rather scrap it. Yeah I looked at android units on aliexpress including xtrons and the issue seems to be they’re very slow and require a lot of presses to do anything while driving. The Android units are sold under umpteen brands with the same features but some of the newer ones have a newer processor sold as px6, from geekbench scores it’s about twice as fast but only equates to iPhone 6 performance which is slow for modern software! its really interesting you saying there’s no crossover at all?! so would be interesting to add one.

Ok so I just got a 2010 vrs diesel after downgrading from a 3.0L e46 with a nice aftmarket stereo and I'm not enjoying the bolero stereo, no bluetooth and full range speakers that cant handle bass. I want to replace the stereo, add a reversing camera and add a subwoofer all at the same time with a crossover so those crap full range speakers dont play that crap bass. I'm set on a sony xav-ax1005db as its got carplay, looks to be decent software and has a volume knob so need to find the best subwoofer setup for it. Whats the best way to do this cleanly without multiple branded expensive amp boxes(they only have basic chips like TPA3116 anyway) and clean cable management?