Matanfr

Hello The "Swooshing" noise can be from several reasons: 1. the coolant auxiliary pump. Perhaps there is air in the cooling system or air leaking inside. I suggest that you put an eye on the coolant level after trips. Top up the coolant over the max line and see if the swooshing continues. 2. An old car battery causes the main coolant pump (which is switchable) not to operate well because the battery can't deliver enough current to operate the pump. This happened to me yesterday-i had swooshing for over a week and got the P0562 code (system voltage low). I replaced the car battery yesterday and the swooshing was gone. 3. Main coolant pump-If the pump is over 5 years of age, I recommend to replace it as a preventative maintenance step. 4. Door seals where the rubber is prevent water from draining. Need to unclog the opening.

wynn's making excellent stuff. Used their off-car dpf flushing liquid when my dpf got completely clogged and removed in the garage. Used their on-car dpf cleaner spray with great results. The dpf continues to clog until egr will be replaced (egr cooler was replaced already) but looks like the egr is the culprit here.

Hi Got the same error, the rubber coating of the electrical connection is slowly ripped apart due to heat and dryness, causing the glow plug contact to jump out of place. I've bought a second hand wire loom for the entire engine, and using this as donor. each glow plug repair kit costs ~46 euro (in ebay germany from what i've seen) while the entire wire loom is ~60 euros and you get all the wiring you want, so consider purchasing entire loom 2nd hand. also, Got a DGT and CXXB engine, both these engines got glow plug in cylinder 3 and they are also coming with PR:7MM engine code. To be on the safe side, PM me the VIN number of your car and i will send you the precise car part number. In the erwin data, it says that after replacing the glow plug with the pressure sensor you need to reset learnt values of pressure sensor, etc from VCDS or ODIS. PS-Per erwin manual, CLHA also has the pressure glow plugs in cylinder 3.

A quick update. after applying dpf cleaner spray to the exhaust pressure sensor pipe (after removal of the sensor), the fuel consumption was back to normal and the fault didn't appear again after clearing. actual consumption picture attached before and after the cleanup and refueling-notice the reduction per the fuel quantity in the tank.

sorry for that. any ideas?

Hello, i have Octavia 2016, taxi turned private. mileage 279k km. its previous engine was gone (cxxb, 81kw), replaced with dgte engine (85kw). had the dpf removed and cleaned using a special liquid. now, after a month of silence, the MIL light turned on again. scanning showed the following codes (image attached). does this mean the dpf is still clogged and needs special cleaning? why is the exhaust sensor fault constantly triggered? the sensor was replaced.

Does this noise increase in frequency (from whistle to a mild rumble) when accelerating? Does it remain when you drive and remove the foot from the gas pedal while remaining in gear? If the answers are yes-this can be a bad wheel bearing..

Without a scanner it's hard to know what malfunction triggered the light. From my personal experience (have a 2016 manual 1.6 TDI Octavia), the coil light is turned on when one of the pre-heater coils have a malfunction or the engine is in limp mode. Coil #3 has knock sensor (detects the detonation in the cylinder) mounted on it, and it reports the detonation to the ECU. If the ECU doesn't detect the detonation in cylinder #3 it goes into limp mode as a safety precaution and limits the detonations (hence the lower speed limit). This coil is not very reliable and goes faulty anywhere between 30K Km and 100K Km (18K-62K miles). In my car this coil lasted 40K Km and started the coil lamp. I suggest to replace it with it's 3 other "friends", All the rest are regular pre-heater coils.

Answers in red.

The octavia is quite heavy, so i think the 1.6L is a little weak. But still, 14km per liter? The regens drop the fuel consumption to this amount? it's like petrol consumption.. Is there anything that can be checked? EGR?

Hello, Car was a former taxi, turned private. Has Engine code CXXB 1.6TDI, 5 speed manual gearbox. Engine was replaced after the previous one had knocking all over the place during highway drive. Since i got it (and after the engine swap) I treat it with shortened service intervals (i want to keep the car for years)-replacing engine oil each 8000 km (car travels 50K Km a year, not kidding..), also replacing other filters (air, etc) each 10K Km. DPF is regenerating every 3rd-4th fueling approx. (1500-2000 Km between regenerations). The main issue is the fuel consumption. The car does 14km per liter. Maximum. Driving is 70% highway, 30% traffic jam and city. When i got it, for the first half year it made 16Km per liter. This also happened with the old engine with it's original injectors, and after the new injectors were coded and installed. (Injectors passed 40K Km until now, bought brand new before the engine swap, then moved to the new engine and recoded to new engine). I have a friend with the 2.0L engine (taxi driver) which according to him "doesn't fall below 25 Km per liter". Is that considered normal consumption in the 1.6L engine?

Hi, From my experience with my car, there could be several reasons: 1. The brake fluid reservoir tank has small pin which it sits on which allows the pump to pump fluid from it. If the tank isn't sitting straight, the abs pump continues to pump fluid to the brake line but can't extract it back. The brake fluid continues to be added more and more until there is no more room, making the brake pedal very hard to press. 2. The brake fluid hasn't been bled well, leaving old fluid in the system. The old fluid continues to receive moisture, making itself more viscous and hard to move inside the system freely. I've attached a picture how it was in my car when the abs pump was failing to due misaligned pump reservoir with a broken pin.

Hello I have the octavia 2016 that was a taxi, i bought it and turned it into private. The infotainment system sometimes disconnects from the BT. The system is in english but it can display characters in hebrew. The problem with it is that the BT is sometimes disconnecting and reconnecting again. I've attached the infotainment system info. Is there an update for it that won't require me to reset the system or activate it again with a code (that i don't have since the car is 2nd hand)?

yes, it was checked during the car buying phase. no noises were detected, gears were changing ok. Hi, thanks for the reply. first, I'm not familiar with the details. can you please elaborate regarding the AG revision? my mechanic ordered a new bursehung cylinders and I don't know if that's related to the revision you are referring to. second, what particle are you referring to? a rogue particle from dirt in the fluid or the valve? third, what drilling are you referring to? why is it required in the first place? the is no documentation on this anywhere. can you explain using a picture? thank you very much.

My car is a former taxi turned private with 210k Km on the clock. MK3 octavia 5 speed manual, 1.6TDI. When pressing the clutch, there was a low rumble that came and gone but started always when i pressed the clutch. The clutch was acting ok, gears shifted properly and somehow even more smoothly than usual. 2 days ago the clutch pedal suddenly stuck down. The mechaic replaced both master and slave cylinders and bled the air from the system. I wanted to replace them both in order to prevent a "take me with you" scenario, that the other fails when it's mate is replaced new. Today he bled the air again and i was off to work. 20 minutes later, i got stuck on the highway without any clutch response, no gears were engaged. The clutch pedal went up and down as usual. The car limped to the garage after i drove it with high revs (the clutch engaged partially), When i got to the garage, The clutch smelled burned. Now i'm not only replaced the master and slave cylinders, but i'm required to replace the clutch as well. What could be the issue? Does the new cylinders caused somehow to the clutch not engaging gears? Or the cylinders failure were a premature warning to an already worn clutch?