alessio92

Thanks all, Some of this makes me confident and some less so! It'll definitely be over 3 years old. I've since found out that the exact one they were looking at has been reserved by someone else so is currently off the menu but they're still looking at similar so this is all very helpful. Does anyone know if the same issues apply to the equivalent VW (T-CUP or whatever the smaller one is called this year) model?

Hello! This might be the first time I've ever ventured beyond the Octavia and Fabia sections of this forum... Anyway - my folks, both in their 60s, are looking for a second car. They want something similar sized to the Golf they currently have (and have had a long line of before that) but I'm encouraging them to look at other models, in particular SUVs, because they'll probably keep this a good few years now and I think the higher seating position will be easier as they get older (not that they struggle now, they're very active). So anyway, they've seen a Karoq at a local garage, and quite like it, but they've done some research which seems to suggest that electrical issues with the infotainment system are quite common, but they were a bit vague. So, I'm seeking your experience to try and understand a bit more! Are issues with the infotainment system common? If so, what are those 'issues' and are they expensive to resolve? Are we looking at a hardware swap or just a software reset/update? Also, how does the 1.0TSI perform in a car this size? I'm not best placed to advise given my entire car history is 1.9 and 2.0TDIs. Is it comfortable both around town and on longer runs? They may occasionally use it to do trips to the other end of the country. Any other buying advice would be much appreciated! Thanks

Hi guys, Twice in the past week, my car's gone into Limp mode when accelerating above about 55mph, citing an issue with the o2 sensor bank 1 according to the scanner. Each time, turning the engine off, waiting a few secs and then turning it back on has cleared it and it's gone back to normal. I had a full day of normal driving between the two instances. Does anyone have any ideas why this is likely to have happened? Also, my octavia's a 2013 2.0TDI SE... it has generally only been used for short runs recenlty due to a change in working patterns so I know it needs a good run at speed to help the DPF out, could that be linked?

Well, I solved it. Turns out that the leads are ok, they're rated for up to 3000cc. But on the Alhambra engine bay, I'd made a mistake about where to connect the black cable to earth it. The actual earthing strip is just a thin bit of bare metal with a painted nut or something either side of it. Looks like the first time I'd connectedd to the painted bit not the unpainted bit, which is very thin and can only be clipped to one way!

Frustratingly I don't have a multimeter to check voltage. Will see if I can borrow one. Im starting to suspect the cables may be the issue. Going to check the spec of them and see where our other ones have gone - I did have some chunky ones! Edit - they're supposedly rated for vehicles up to 3000cc...

Hi guys I have a 2013 Octavia 2.0 TDI with stop-start which hasn't been driven since Christmas eve. Apparently we left a door ajar on it so the battery is now too flat to start the car. When I turn the key, all the dash lights come on as normal but when it tries to turn over, all the lights flash with each attempted revolution but it's never succesful. Initially if I tried to turn the headlights on, the dash would light up. I attempted to jump-start it this morning from our Seat Alhambra, also a 2.0TDI. Not by any means the first time I've ever jump started a car, but possibly the first time I've needed to do it on this one. I connected the positive terminals on each battery, then connected the negative on the Alhambra to the earthing point on the chassis of the Octavia. Had the Seat engine running whilst connected for about 25+ mins but still no change except that the dash dials no longer light up if I turn the headlights on (though they do still come on if I turn the key). Essentially I think for whatever reason, when I had the jump cables connected, the Skoda battery wasn't taking any charge from the Seat. I'm assuming I've done something wrong here. Can anyone advise what may be going on or what the correct technique for jump-starting is? Edit - adding in case it's relevant: It was about -2 outside when I was trying this morning, don't know if that may be a factor?

I’ll get that checked, thank you. Th car does have stop-start.

Hi guys, I have a couple of intermittent issues on my 2013 2.0TDI CR SE estate. Firstly, from time to time, you’re unable to switch driving mode (Eco/Normal/Sport). The button on the console is illuminated orange; pressing it briefly turns it green and then back to Orange. Linked with this, when this happens if I try to go to the vehicle status menu on the infotainment system, saying that this information is not available at the moment. this happens sporadically, I haven’t noticed any kind of pattern for it to be triggered, and it usually works again the following day, or the next time I drive if there’s a reasonable gap. However, I am concerned it might be indicative of an engine management fault for something similar. The second issue occurred this morning, and again I’m not sure if it’s linked. When my wife started the engine and put the car into reverse, the usual warning beep was significantly longer and louder than normal. She took it out of reverse and back into neutral, then put it back into reverse again and this time the parking sensors did not work. Just wondered if anyone could advise on what may cause either of these and whether they’re likely to be linked?

Hi guys, Couple of things on my Mk3 Octavia 2.0TDI Estate that I would appreciate advice on. Firstly, the front lighter socket (by the handbrake) is currently dead. The rear one works. Am I right in thinking they’re separate fuses? If so, I’ll try that first, if not I’ll look for a replacement socket. Secondly and rather more significantly, I’ve had a few instances recently where Reverse doesn’t seem to disengage properly. It’s a 6-speed so reverse is in the dog leg at the left. On multiple occasions recently I’ve pulled it back to the middle and then tried to put it in first but it’s gone back into Reverse because it hasn’t popped back up properly. It could just be me but I’m slightly concerned that it’s a fault… is this a thing that happens? Thanks!

81,000 Unfortuantely even with a scanner, the garage don't know what's up so it's going back to Skoda.

I have 6 months, but I was under the impression that I can only reject it in the first 28 days.

Okay, fair. I assumed, with the cars being the same parent company and much of the same Internals, that the codes would be the same. Yep that’s it. I’m seriously considering rejecting the car to be honest. By the time I get it back I’ll have about 3-4 days at the most of the 28-day rejection period and I don’t feel like that’s long enough to evaluate whether it’s been properly fixed or not.

Hi guys, Bought a mk3 Octavia last week as detailed on another thread, and it had an engine light come on straight away so it went back. The dealer’s service depot is at a SEAT garage, but they say they don’t know what’s wrong with the car because SEAT and Skoda diagnostic codes are different and the equipment can’t read the codes, so it’s having to go back to Skoda themselves. Can anyone tell me if this is true or if the dealer is having me on? thanks!

Hi guys, As stated on another thread, I’ve just bought a 1.6TDI. Despite having owned 5 diesels before this, this is my first with a DPF so I’m looking to educate myself. I’m sorry if the following seem like stupid questions, I’ve had a bit of a look through recent threads but can’t see the answers… 1. How often will the DPF regen, and what will trigger this or allow it to start? I do know they should take about 15-20 minutes. 2. How do I know if it is doing a regen, so as not to interrupt it? And do I need to keep driving whilst it’s doing this or just make sure I don’t switch the engine off? 3. How would I know if my DPF needs some major work, treatment or even replacing? Car is on 81k but I’ve no idea about the previous owner’s driving style. Ages ago I read that the recommended interval was 80k but I think that was when they were first introduced in around 2008 so assuming guidance has changed? Thanks in advance.

Given that it’s been at a dealer for about a month I’m wondering if the DPF hasn’t had chance to regen properly. How often should it regen, and how long does it need to do it, or what would trigger a regen?