Stuom

Hi, sorry I don't have an answer, mine is still broken because I'm lazy... I'll report here if I ever get to fix it

Really appreciate @leolito that you cared to bother your neighbour for me! Their first hunch was that the issue is the pump so they changed it, and they told they checked that it works. I don't know more details about that. I copied the timestamped measurements here (these are made with the new pump after I brought the car back): 11:28 Measurement Value Engine: coolant temp 72 Webasto: coolant temp 55 Circulation pump: OFF 11:31 Measurement Value Engine: coolant temp 59 Webasto: coolant temp 62 Circulation pump: ON 11:32 Measurement Value Engine: coolant temp 59 Webasto: coolant temp 59 Circulation pump: ON 11:42 Measurement Value Engine: coolant temp 59 Webasto: coolant temp 85 Circulation pump: ON 11:43 Measurement Value Engine: coolant temp 59 Webasto: coolant temp 88 Circulation pump: ON 11:44 Measurement Value Engine: coolant temp 50 Webasto: coolant temp 59 Circulation pump: ON (here they mentioned that it's normal that webasto sometimes turns off to save fuel) 11:56 Measurement Value Engine: coolant temp 60 Webasto: coolant temp 80 Circulation pump: ON 12:02 Measurement Value Engine: coolant temp 68 Webasto: coolant temp 87 Circulation pump: ON 12:15 Measurement Value Engine: coolant temp 51 Webasto: coolant temp 71 Combustion air blower: 6308 (RPM) In addition there are some graphs that measure combustion blower RPM which show that the value sails between ~6350-6275 RPM in 10-second measurement. From another forum I found a post that has exactly the same error codes as I do, and similar temperature difference in the freeze frame. Their cause was temperature sensor. I think the main suspects are now temperature sensor and/or blockage in the combustion side?

It was not hard, you basically need one or two sturdy sticks that you place between the floor of the trunk and the tailgate. I think I used two extendable paint roller poles I had lying around with some extra tape to make sure they stay locked With adjustable length it was easy to find a place for the poles that I trusted they won't budge even if I accidentally bump them a little. Somebody suggested to change both struts especially if they are different than original, since it's possible they have a little different motor/speed, and then the left and right sides might be out of sync and fight each other

Thanks for answer! I suspect it's not related to coolant flow, because the service I took it replaced the pump and checked coolant flow (because they assumed it's the problem). The overtemperature fault also comes after webasto has been running only around 30 seconds, can this be enough time to cause a real overtemperature if combustion side is blocked? I promised to call the service and answer to their offer of replacing the control unit, so basically I'm looking for ideas what to suggest them instead of replacing the control unit. But it seems the symptoms are not clear enough so I might not get out of this without spending all my money

Today was a 10 degrees colder temperature outside compared to previous tests, and I had to keep engine running over 10 minutes before webasto agreed to stay on (did a few unlocks and retries). Weird this inverse correlation between outside temperature and webasto overtemperature fault. Why does webasto need warmer coolant (or warmer something) in order to avoid overtemperature fault? I don't know enough of cars to explain this...

Thanks for input! I was wondering based on the price that there cannot be much more left to fix if the control unit change is so expensive I have never had any dedicated service for it. Replacing thermo sensor sounds like something that I would like to try because I was suspecting false reading. What is the service kit you're referring to? I would like to learn more about it if you have some link or part numbers or something. The diagnostics service I had gave me copy of measurements they did. It's in language I don't understand but I'll try to translate interesting parts: 00006 - Heater locked: Excessive temperature B138F 4B [00001000] - Overtemperature Freeze frame: ... Parking heater: operating mode: After-run - burnout 92 Coolant temperature of parking heater: 46 C Coolant temperature: 15 C Engine running status: not recognized Fuel level: 40 L Heating performance: 5000 W In other measurements, parking heater coolant temperature went to max 88 C, engine coolant temperature being 10-20 C lower at different points. Battery voltage 11,3 V - 12,1 V, circulation pump voltage 14 V. (They changed the circulation pump so it was new in this test, they offered to change the old back since it wasn't the culprit)

Cannot edit anymore, but this part got me wondering if it can be a real overtemp fault, let's say if for some reason some blower fails to start because of cold/humid/low battery, can it go to real overtemperature so fast? Otherwise I'm suspecting some measurement probe error or something

Just wanted to update here, bought two of these https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08L555ZNH?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title and managed to change myself as a complete noob, and they have worked for 2 years now

Hello all, any Webasto experts here? This issue started about two months ago. One morning I noticed aux heater didn't start. I checked with OBD and have the fault 00006 - Heater locked: Excessive temperature I unlocked it via OBD, and it worked the whole day normally, used several hours just to test it out. Then next morning, same fault. Took to service, they ran tests couple of hours and didn't get the error, and measured temperatures seemed more or less normal, but the RPM of some webasto fan goes audibly a little woo-woo-woo and measured value also sails +- 200 rpm but shouldn't cause overheating according to them. They suggested changing some control unit and it will cost like 1200+ and I'm very unwilling to do that for false overtemperature I have ran more testing for a few days, and if in the morning I start the car, let it run for some time before starting heater, it works without issues and can run full hour. And I can do multiple subsequent heater starts without fault. Then one morning I cold started it, I heard it start, runs for ~a minute, and then trips and locks before it starts blowing any air. Some ideas: - Mornings are cold - Mornings are humid - Running engine and fluids for few minutes gets rid of cold and humid? - Running engine restores battery voltage? Although in one test, I started the car, and immediately after started heater, and it tripped. Would appreciate any tips on saving money!

Can you charge start/stop superb using cigarette lighter plug like this https://www.ctek.com/uk/battery-chargers-12v-24v/ctx-indicator-plug-12v?

Do you know are the right and left really different physically? They have A/B difference in product number but one would imagine such thing could be built symmetrically. In case I cannot figure out which one is bad, I could buy one used and just try...

Hi, I tried to scan with Carista OBD, not sure if that counts as a "scan" as you meant it, but it didn't tell anything about tailgate. I tried to investigate which side is faulty by unplugging them separately and trying to operate, but I only get a single "beep" sound whenever I try to open or close, so it seems it does not even try with either unplugged. The other side is clearly more noisy when operating. I wonder is the noisier the healthy one or the faulty... New one (single piece) seems to be 450 eur around here 🤑 I'd rather have broken tailgate than pay that haha, but would like to investigate the motor myself.

When I open the boot, it opens fully as I would want, but then immediately returns back ~20cm. I pushed it back up and long-pressed the closing button to save the position, but it does not help. Is there some other feature in play or is there some problem?