MajesticMonk
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Posts posted by MajesticMonk
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Excellent thanks for fixing the picture that gives me a better idea of what I'm doing. I shall return to this tomorrow and let you know how it goes 😊
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On 31/03/2015 at 18:29, Breezy_Pete said:
Just thought I'd throw this out for anyone that has a leaky radiator drain plug. The whole fitting is pretty cheap, but there's an easily replaceable o-ring that does the sealing between the tap itself and the rest of the fitting, I measure this o-ring at internal diameter 8mm, thickness 2.5mm.
There are some other part numbers and dimensions included which may or may not be useful.
The drain plug just pulls straight out from the fully open position if you want to remove it to replace the o-ring.
Anyone replacing a radiator might want to consider buying the big internal o-ring (x2, one for the top hose fitting also), part number N90765301 which is 32mm internal diameter, 4mm thickness. Your new radiator may come with these O-rings, possibly. I don't know as I haven't had the pleasure of replacing one yet.
Hi all.
I've had a leaking coolant drain tap for a while and it seems to have got worse. It's leaks badly for a little while after I stop driving then eventually stops.
Ive bought some o rings but I've gone to unscrew the coolant drain tap and and can't see how I fully remove it to get the seals on.
How do I get this out to fit the seal?
Many thanks,
Joe
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Just now, sepulchrave said:
Don't hang about, change the lock or repair the wiring while you can
This is the job for Saturday! I have a new locking mechanism from eBay ready to install if I can see nothing wrong with the wiring on inspection
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23 hours ago, Wino said:
Some people have success by clouting the door near the lock repeatedly whilst trying to unlock it. If it is a bad connection somewhere, you might just get lucky and the thing happen to make the connection at just the right time with your mechanical 'input'.
I've not had personal experience of this 'door won't open' situation though, so probably not the best person to advise on solutions.
I just got the door open by taking the central locking fuse out and putting it back in again! Success for now!
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Just got the door open by taking the central locking fuse out and putting it back in again!
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22 hours ago, Mobear said:
Sorry never had time but this what I bought link at the bottom.
just go on YouTube to show you how you remove door card.
once off drill old rivets out
install rivnuts and get the same size bolts for the rivnuts you installed
Done.
I say it take you 30 mins a door to do
Great stuff thanks. Now its just to get the door open in the first place in order to figure out whats wrong!
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On 18/08/2021 at 13:15, Wino said:
I've just updated that thread, with a link to another one where the real problem was uncovered.
In your case, unless you've had intermittent misbehaviour, I'm not sure it will be the same cause.
I have had Intermittent behaviour in terms of the key fob sometimes working sometimes not so I think this could be the cause. The main struggle is how to get my door open. If the locking mechanism is faulty any ideas on how to open door? I was going to try the method of taking part of the handle off and then putting a coat hanger in but if the problem is the microswitch then this probably won't help?
My next thought it trying to get the door panel off whilst the door is closed but not sure if this is possible
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On 30/04/2020 at 20:42, Mobear said:
No problem pavinjo. Im just going to get mixed ones and see which fit I will be making a guide so other people can follow as not much on this subject
Did you ever make a guide for how to use rivnuts on the door carrier? Want to get my door apart this weekend but struggling to get suitable rivets in time
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4 hours ago, totoro said:
My doors kept locking and unlocking, randomly, for a while and then the passenger door wouldn't open except on rare occasions. A replacement mechanism from Ebay cost £13.75* and works perfectly, no more random behaviour over the year since it was fitted.
I see the price is now £19*
Was this replacing the locking mechanism on the passenger door or on the driver's side out of interest?
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20 hours ago, TMB said:
Have you done any work on the passenger door that's caused it to stop working or has it just failed on its own?
First thing I'd be inspecting would be the door bellows wires and connections at the multiplugs between body and door on both sides. It's pretty difficult to say what might be wrong with it. The solder joints on them can break down due to the shocks of opening and closing the door over the years. The electronics in the driver's unit can fail. The wiring in the door bellows can break. The little DC motor inside the lock can give problems. There are five microswitches that all have to work....
All sounds like good advice thanks! I've not done any work on the door so not sure what has caused this issue. Thanks for the link to that thread!
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If and when I eventually get my passenger door open. What are the most likely candidates for this not working? From other threads it sounds like it could be the wired connections running through the door billows, or maybe the microswitch in the locking mechanism. My central locking key fob hasn't worked for the driver's side door for the past 3 years but have just used the key for this door.
1) Does anyone know if there is ways to test the locking mechanism or best to replace and hope for the best?
2) Could the driver's side locking microswitch have anything to do with the passenger side not opening?
Cheers,
Joe
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Sounds like you might have forgotten to re-hook the spring hook before refitting as in this other topic?
Interestingly I have just got the same problem but haven't had my door apart at all so not sure what has gone wrong with mine. Thinking about taking the cover off the rear of the handle and using a wire coat hanger as suggested in that topic ^
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On 15/03/2015 at 10:46, Stuart27183 said:
if cant get open at all - from outside pop off the cover to the rear of the handle, then carefully pop out the plastic barrel (or lock barrel if there is one), then cut a length of a metal coat hanger off and curl one end round to make a hook. Now, slide said hook in through where the lock barrel was and you will be able to pull the metal lever on the door mech and pull to pop it open. I spent half a day changing my door mech when the door was unable to open from inside or out!
Hi all. My passenger door isn't opening at all. Will this method work on the passenger door of a Skoda fabia estate?
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On 30/09/2010 at 07:35, DRJ said:
The PDF version of the manual I have gives a different procedure to that stated on the RDF attachment above:
It is also possible for you to reset the Service Interval Display with the reset button as follows:
• Press the reset button with the ignition switched off and and hold it down.
• Switch the ignition on, release the reset button and and [sic] turn the reset button to the right. All counters will be reset to 0.
It is only possible to reset the Service Interval Display, if a service message or at least a pre-warning is shown on the display of the instrument cluster.
However my 2004vRS had five services though at only two was the warning showing before going in - and the garage correctly reset the indicator every time...
This one worked for me when nothing else would nice one!
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Excellent advice thankyou! I've removed strip fuse 3 as suggested and the fan has turned off. I tested the low speed function by turning on the AC as suggested and this is still working. I'll look for a control module and replace and see how it does
Will this low speed function turn on and cool the engine if needed without the AC on? Just wondering if I need to worry about overheating if I need to drive anywhere in the meantime.
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Hi all,
I have a Skoda Fabia estate Mk1 2007. I parked it up last night and the fan was running at what seemed like high speed and wouldn't switch off. I eventually disconnected the battery. Going off other threads it seems like the radiator control module relay is the likely suspect. Before I order a new one and attempt to change could this issue be fuse related?
Mk1 Fabia Radiator Drain plug assembly 6Q0-122-291F
in Skoda Fabia Guides
Posted
Right so the culprit does appear to have been a perished O ring as there was only half left on the drain plug 😂 (picture below). As far as I can tell I have no more leaking!
Thanks for the help. This forum has come to my rescue yet again!