Former

My policy would be not to buy from them. If they want to sell the car to you they should sort out a longer test drive and facilitate your mechanic - perhaps they've had cars stolen, staff issues or something and want more security - or they have these policies because they want easy quick sales of stock they're not 100% confident about - or company, management, staff are just usual English motor trade shysters. There are two parties to a sales if either one isn't reasonably satisfied then it might be best for one, other or both to walk away from making a regrettable contract.

Have you put petrol in recently, I have no idea of the quality of petrol supplied from petrol station in Croatia just thinking of possibilities. Any work or parts or add-ons devices to the car recently. Have you checked the HT leads. Have you checked inlet and exhaust manifolds, exhaust system too. I forget what distributor and rotor arm and distributor cap you have, if any are Chinese made suspect them. Jerky between 1-2,000 rpm could be a lot of causes. For head gasket failure you could check for other signs oil in coolant, coolant in oil, coolant loss or bubbling in expansion tank, stuff coming out of the exhaust end and it's colour, engine running warmer. temperature gauge needle showing higher than usual especially when the engine has been put under more load and stress, misfires you might have but for other signs check for what I have forgot with internet lists of 'head gasket failure' - HGF. For filter do you mean a filter to go in that white fuel bowl - or you could fit a disposable clear see-through in-line filter in the fuel hose before or after the pump. A video/audio recording of the strange noise might help as would possibly clear good (landscape) photos of your engine bay.

We see very few EFB + battery here I have no idea if VW even have a coding for such, OBDeleven might but that is not the same thing. I find it best to charge to the battery to full 100% charge (if the battery will take it) not the VW 70, 75, 80%, using an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions of the charger and those in the 'Owner's Manual' for the car, using a charger of lower amps, currently I use a 4-amp charger on my wife's 2015 Fabia. It can take many hours to top that up. You charging every 6 months to however you do it might be enough and ideal only taking readings would really tell but it is much more than most do and you get your batteries to 5 years still with more useable service life in them and as you are passing them on they are not wasted. At the moment in my shed I have a neighbour's car battery and I am using my 30+ year old semi-"smart" 1.9 amp charger maintainer, I expect it to take a minimum of 24+ hours to fully recharge to 100%, if it can, judged on first connecting it up to my 40+ year old (not "smart") battery charger with a useful swing needle display on it to see how much the needle moves in 5-10 minutes based on decades of experience doing the same for other neighbours. Photo from internet. Batteries like about 20C weather temperatures, IIRC(?) at 30C they self-discharge at double the rate and double again at 40C. AGM batteries are supposed to have more insulation around them if fitted in the engine bay (the one I fitted to my wife's car doesn't even have the full insulation for the factory battery as the car came with the lid part missing, I have just risked it as it is, I have a low hassle tolerance with German marque cars as generally I don't like them. As a general rule the bigger the physical size battery the power it holds and often cars have smaller batteries than the space available can allow for, but not always. Do not get too attached to mere numbers as it is also about performance of those number and longevity of that performance also there are many standards for the CCA (cold cranking amps) specification, see below for pdf on 4 of them. Bear in mind I am NOT an expert in car batteries, or anything else. I have the VW Self-Study pdf on VW stop/start and batteries if you want them or they are available on the internet along with lots of information about batteries, though some battery manufacturers seem to be shy with information thy put on their websites and some information that was previous there is no longer there. HTH. CCAspecs.pdf CarBatteryInformation.pdf

Tested tonight - orange/amber lock button light remains on. Seems odd if you hear the locks shut, only way to test if the locks remain shut is to have someone outside try to open a door. IIRC(?) you might be able to program locking when moving above a certain speed in the car menu on the infotainment screen but I don't see how that would effect the light for this. Let us know how you get on.

No idea yet. He has his original LPs from the 1960s onwards and CDs and DVDs and might have his new amp arrived which would be interesting. I might take a few CDs for some tracks too. He's older and a little deaf (no surprise) and after getting tinnitus from the days I had my set up, in our small living room) I don't listen to music as loud as I used to and actually previously had to ask for a little less "volume" and on another night to turn it up a bit, some stuff needs a bit of gain or volume for the type of music or track. Some 60s vinyl is so well recorded that it gives great sounding music showing up later recordings regardless of format. 🙂

If I get a new battery I always check if it is fully charged (to 100%) and if not fully charge it to 100% with an appropriate battery charger (at low amps 4-amps for modern medium/larger before fitting to the car. An AGM can arrive with 12.4v charge (full might be 12.8v or 12.9v) and be ok to be fitted to a modern stop/start car but I still fully charge it to 100% just so I know exactly how the battery is when I fit it as a new battery. Very rare to have a duff battery (unless perhaps you're a car manufacturer like say VW or Nissan then you blame the battery manufacturers to cover yer arse, perhaps, maybe, allegedly, surely not VW, no). If you buy a cheap battery and/or from a cheap or poor quality supplier then it may be out of date old and/or stored and kept incorrectly. @Mattylomas1 for your previous 12 month old battery to drop to 3.5v sitting in the car for 72 hours seems very strange - if required are you sure the previous battery was 'coded in' correctly, on here a chap had a professional auto-electrician key in 7ah instead of 70Ah and it done for his battery after x-months (I forget x). I've seen 2.5V on a neighbour's Beemer that had been sitting for months and less than 1v on a Jag XJ that had been driven that day (coldest of the year) and had the heated seats on and other stuff showing the car off (at 5am!) to Jag owner's boss despite knowing the battery was low for a number of weeks (some people don't help themselves). I had to check my multimeter as I thought the cold was affecting its electronics. A 2025 VW I'd only hope to see 8-10 years out of the battery but a 2012 I'd expect longer but different people use different amounts of electricity and different use of the car, plus a 13 year old car isn't new of course but used and worn to varying degree.

You are free to do as you please but that is probably very wasteful, car batteries must remain one of if not the most oversold car parts, replaced prematurely out of choice in your case or through over-use, abuse and neglect and lack of knowledge, that more drivers had more of with previous generations of cars and people.

I'll test this out on my wife's car when I drive it tonight and see what the light does (I don't even like central locking or remotes, keyblades are good enough for me). If they disconnected the battery this wouldn't be affected, some of the mileage and mpg figures would have been reset and the time of date clock would need manual resetting too but they might have reset the time of day clock, on my wife's car IIRC the clock is a second (or minute, I forget) out compared to the radio. If you've not got a different answer I'll let you late tonight or tomorrow, I'm going to listen to vinyl and CDs on a friend's hi-fi system in his soundproofed room so it sometimes goes past the midnight hour.

Yeap, all true, and I've seen those PDFs before from you thank you, just general interest. You can only expect the chap to get samples from fuel stations he goes to, unless as he said people send him samples, all non-laboratory conditions, just general info for those that 5 and 10 mean exactly spot on 5 or 10 always. Note I put "up to" (and locations and as at dates) on the, er, notes.

Sorry I don't follow, I've never noticed the central locking button light under the radio illumination as we never use it. What is it you are trying to do and want? Do you want the doors locked when you are driving the car, when the engine (and ignition are off) and you are sitting in the car when it's stationary, when you have locked the car and leaving it parked? I can have a look tonight as it's a fairly rare occasion of me driving the car. Have you looked in the 'Owner's Manual' for the car?

@Ootohere you might find the following vid interesting, I've yet to see what he has on V-power and my previous favourite of Esso (0%) 99. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdHZsgiuXVQ

What's printed on a Dealership invoice may be some but not all correct in actual detail, it might be a set text or how the person on the keyboard or computer remembers or interprets the "worksheets" and/or could be out of date to their current practice - perhaps economical with accuracy and even perhaps truth. As with many car manufacturers VW seems to have the car owners do some of their research and development by real world use of their products where they might find their compromises in designs and build and suppliers mistakes (never VW engineers mistakes or omissions). VW have said wrong oil in their DSG boxes before and change their VW oil specs and coolant specs - no doubt from progressive developments of course (some from their real world use product users).

If you've not already done so having a look or asking on the the relevant Superb forum might find you someone with the manual or better link to one. Otherwise I don't know if there might be a physical or pdf version of a Haynes (need purchasing). Good luck.

OBD is On Board Diagnostics OBD-I (capital i) is OBD (1 / one) OBD-II (two capital i) is OBD (2 / two) OBDeleven (my mistake to make the 'e' a capital) is a brand of diagnostic tool / application - https://obdeleven.com/ Then the various protocols and systems get a lot more confusing. - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics HTH.

You can use a multimeter.

Ootohere is the person with table for which DSG needs changing and when. A couple of amusing things in your post from Škoda UK or Dealership, the "filled for life", what life, I think they give 8 years, and in the UK a warranty isn't that long - and they allow the gearbox to be serviced if used in a dusty environment, that will go against the beliefs of many. I can't remember if it's the DSQ200 where VW come out with some *******s sorry explanation that the oil type was wrong (it's the oil that's wrong not VW's specification for that wrong oil). Your car is out of any warranty by now I'd have thought so if you want to get the oil changed other than finding someone trustworthy to do the work correctly and properly there's nothing to stop you. Depending on your use of the car/gearbox (37k ÷ 6 = lowish annual mileage perhaps suggest short journeys and proportionately higher number of gear changes) it might be a bit early, or it might not, again Ootohere and others have experience and knowledge on DSGs (personally I've always disliked the idea from the early Aldi days onwards). I've done oil changes on "filled for life", admittedly these cars were old but the changes were always worth while looking at the oil that came out and by how the car felt (you can feel; such things on old cars as the driver is less remote from the car than on modern cars) and drove. Only this weekend I helped change oils on a mate's 29 year old car (manual) gearbox and (rear, limited slip) diff. My mate said the diff oil was 150k-mile change, I can't remember the mileage on his car, about 50-60k-miles, if that, and he thought the diff oil had been changed before but by the state of what came out it really needed doing whether the diff oil had been changed or not. Gearbox oil no so bad but gear changes were stiff hence a needed for oil change. After test drive my mate reported that the changes were good and things sounded quieter. I used better oils that popular recommendation for the (Ford) gearbox and diff, only a few pounds more and their protection will be longer lasting so actually less expensive to use.

@Leanyfreakkid have a look at the map from the link at the bottom of this thread's opening post, the post also gives details and how to tell when the member lasted visited the site to give an idea of contact. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#findComment-3091029

If you don't get answers from here I'd try the Superb forum for 2024 model. I've no idea, I assumed it would be working off some sort of TwatNav system by now rather than the hit 'n' miss camera system, not that the also hit 'n' miss TwatNav system should be relied on rather than the driver keeping their biologically systems fully engaged including their electronic system of their brain. On England's 3rd-world roads many road signs have disappeared partially or fully by the overgrowth, a human can see and recognise them but not the camera systems.

Don't put all your eggs in the OBDEleven basket, all information from all sources needs checks and cross referencing, included car and other manufacturer's, strangers on the internet, and scan tools. You can check items with your senses and other diagnostic tools like a multimeter. Never forget or overlook the basics, a bent or furred up pin on a plug, connectors, wires, can cause issues with transfer of power or communication. You could look at for water ingress for any reason too perhaps near these items. You may need a wiring diagram and information on location of modules, I believe you can pay €7 (?) and get an hour to download as much information as you can find, I have never done it so don't know the details and other similar services are available but might be subscription. Good luck, let us know how you get in to help other later.

Probably filler neck and openings can have a wide variations and still be within 21st-century German engineering tolerances. 😉 It's was done and it was sorted, another life lesson and experience, probably be remembered more than many more important ones. At least it was better quality diesel. 😄

ETA: sorry I've just found the relay issue related to cold starting issue (vw 6c0941824d) so may not relate to your mum's car. Also if you mean the dash display was blinking on/off then that is a different issue anyway. Do any of these error codes effect your mum's car driving?

Obviously diagnostics isn't jumping to conclusions but as you've obviously read up on such stuff that dodge poor quality fuse holder relay (too cheap quality IIRC) might be a suspect (more proof (VAG) German engineering quality isn't necessarily high (German marques quality fell before and just after the turn of the century. The battery voltage doesn't have to be that low for all sorts of unexpected warning lights, messages, issuers and error codes. One computer system issue can bounce around the others and cause them to join in, a good reason to clear all error codes when possible (and not let your battery state of charge get too low for the like of the computers, preventative charging is useful in a situation like your mum's before the battery is used, abused and neglected too much to often). Good to recharge the battery to 100% (rather than the VW stop/start battery management of ?70/75/80%?) so I'm not surprised the charging numbers remained low, more surprised you can rev to 4,000 rpm with the car stationary, I don't think there's probably any alternator issue from what is in your posts - but main things like faulty ignition switch could also perhaps create and error code list. There is a thread on here with (IIRC?) posts from a chap that done his own repair to the relay, if you find that you could see if the relay symptoms and diagnosis fully relate to the problem with your mum's car. DSG may introduce another level of PITA, sorry, complexity, and possibilities of faults but OBDEleven only give it one count so it may be an innocent party here. Do check your OBDEleven is up to date for your mum's car or generally, if you are doing diagnostics you check rather than assume, I have no idea what is required on an OBDEleven other than your wife's Golf isn't a 2019 Fabia, differences, changes and updates can relate to VIN/car built level. It is another subject we can cover later if you want but as you know not to fully trust the computers also do not put all your faith into your Cteks and your battery tester. The CAN three faults might be something to expand on further. If you know anyone with another 2019 Fabia appropriate scan tool you could confirm OBDEleven results and perhaps get more info and diagnosis. Are you your mum's car) in Ireland or somewhere (else) in Europe, in case things vary as most members here work from a UK perspective of the cars?

Hi, welcome. You don't say what year your mum's car is, that could be important. For low battery often they can be recharged with an appropriate battery charger (even VAGs) 😄 but I can understand with relatives and friends often it's easier to replace the battery. Could be electric wire(s), connections, relay(s) or board or other stuff. Did you clear the error codes with your OBDEleven after the new battery was fitted or check for them after the new battery was fitted? Was your phone battery with reasonable charge, OBDEleven program fully up to date, good wireless connections with no drop outs when you 'coded' the new battery (and check for error codes)? Was it just short journey(s) your mum did for a day? First check the battery and its installation, then check your coding of the new battery, mistakes can happen. What were the 20+ error codes? Sorry for all the questions but only you were there and have the car and tools in the metal and plastic and not anyone here on site so it's starter diagnostics, some might give quick answers or suggestions but obviously that not me (other than as I've already put).

You should be able to get emission related codes even with simple non-VAG tools (subject to the reader or scan tool being appropriate to VW, model and year, car battery and tool battery being at a reasonable state of charge and program check for being up to date before use). I don't know what VAG tool was used in 2000 but it would have been very basic compared to many of today's tools and (IIRC) your car has a 16 pin standard socket possibly (IIRC) only a few of those 16 available sockets are used, and the systems protocols used were more basic. So a lot less information and interaction than on later cars. As this is your first MoT with this car and it's done 10 in the last year, how long have you had this car and how long did the last owner have the car? Never missing a service from new is good, particularly a couple of decades back as more was done on a service but this changed over time to basically being very little more than an engine oil and filter change which isn't even a proper service for the engine let alone the car as a whole. More recent years service, maintenance and repairs history may be more relevant for your current issue. 10k-miles this year is good for the car. Your list, as regards the engine, was missing engine air filter and spark plugs as obvious example but they may have been change in previous recent years. Previous mot fails for emissions doesn't tie in well with regular (timely?) annual services unless these were just oil and filter "services" but something must have been done to get the MoT passes for those years. What makes you say the engine management light doesn't come on when it should, computers aren't to be fully relied on, they are not always the answer or give incorrect answers, and some of the computer programs have wide margins of tolerance built in to them, so much that a (non-technical) human can feel or detect a fault well before the computers trigger a warning. I'm not knowledgeable enough to know how you fiddle the light not to come other than removing a bulb -are you saying the light doesn't come on when it should by what the car's Owner's Manual tells you(?). Emissions could be due to many factors and causes, other than lack of full, and proper, servicing and maintenance thing like lambda sensor and injector(s) or their settings would come to mind before any manipulation of computer programs. Has the car got or had any sort of "fuel saving" device(s) fitted now or before? What code reader, scan tool, VAG tool are you using? How many miles did the car do in the year before last and year and two before that? When was the engine air filter (and air box) last inspected, cleaned or changed - same for spark plugs? What petrol do you run it on, and previously if you know? Generally, not necessarily for this Fail, for the MoT test you need to ensure the tester is testing the car to the requirements for a year 2000 car and engine, not all MoT testers are fully trained or qualified (believe it or not) or know or are used to testing old cars. As I put other current and past Felicia owners here will know more than me and it's been 3 years now since I used a 1973 car as a daily, and that strictly didn't need an MoT and MoT requirements related to it were less than even a 1980s car let alone a 2000 car so what little knowledge I had I've mostly forgotten.

Been in that position with replacement old car parts many, many times, we don't buy these parts out of choice but because we are out of choices.