SailorBob74133

So once I got the timing cover off it became obvious what the problem was. In addition to the exhaust balance shaft being seized and all the teeth having been ripped of the socket, it appears that whoever did the timing previously didn't align the marks properly. The timing chain was off by one tooth down on the crankshaft sprocket... That's the reason for the weird cam phase adjustment.... I'll upload some pics if I get the chance...

You think I should just replace all the timing chains and guides in the this situation? I was considering just replacing the balance chain and guides, in addition to the two balance shafts of course...

I finally got around to popping open this can of worms and I'll just let the pictures speak for themselves. Basically, the exhaust balance shaft seized, but the engine apparently didn't notice and simply ripped the teeth off and shattered the balance guides. Additionally, the camshaft timing marks line up perfectly and measure a near perfect 124mm apart with the intake measuring 65mm. However looking at the crank the colored link is one tooth off. Looking at the tensioner it's only four notches past the end with plenty of tension, so I'm guessing that whoever changed the chain probably a few years ago didn't time it right. That the +13* cam phase... The sprokets on the intake balance shaft look pretty chewed up too... Haven't pulled off the cam bridge yet to inspect it... I'd like to point out that miraculously this engine runs relatively well all things considered. I drove it about 100 kilometers after buying it at a used car dealer who claimed it was all in perfect working condition, but sold it at half book value... Once I've got this all fixed I'll recheck the oil pressure issue and maybe replace the cam bridge, it that doesn't work I'll look at the intake camshaft bearings...

I have a 2011 Superb 1.8L CDAA with a seized exhaust balance shaft. The engine runs because somehow the teeth got sheared off the gear. I figure since the balance shafts come in pairs I might as well replace both. Also thinking of replacing the CAM bridge, since I've got a weird low oil pressure only at warm ( 80*+) idle. Anyways, any tips for replacing the intake balance shaft, things that'll make the job easier?

So I changed the VVT Solenoid to no effect. Still same problem, showing +13.13 degrees Camshaft Phase Adjustment, 38 degrees, shows Cam Adjustment Test System OK. Same problem with oil pressure dropping below spec at hot idle ( +80*C / 176*F ), but being OK once I raise the RPMs to 1000 or above.

So I changed the VVT Solenoid to no effect. Still same problem, showing +13.13 degrees Camshaft Phase Adjustment, 38 degrees, shows Cam Adjustment Test System OK. Same problem with oil pressure dropping below spec at hot idle ( +80*C / 176*F ), but being OK once I raise the RPMs to 1000 or above.

I'm really just asking out of curiosity, how does the Skoda logo come up on a 3rd party nav system?

Really? When the car starts up it shows the Skoda Logo on the screen, and the built in back up parking sensors display on the screen...

I bought a 2011 Superb from a dealer and didn't notice until I got home that the radio is locked. Here's a picture. How do I unlock it? I've got a Launch X431 if that helps.

Interesting, take a look at these this one: Five of the same codes as me. Also found another one which had the low oil pressure only at warm idle and solved it by replacing the cam solenoid, intake camshaft and the bearing thing on that holds the camshafts in place: It's looking allot like I need to take a look at that solenoid and maybe the camshaft bearings. From what I understand oil flows through the solenoid into the center of the camshafts and lubricates the cam bearings and lobes?

When people talk about stretched timing chains on the EA888 1.8 and 2.0 TSI engines they always seem to be talking about negative phase adjustment numbers. However on my vehicle I"m showing large positive numbers. Specifically I'm showing a intake phase position of +11.73 degrees and an intake Cam adjustment of 38 degrees - both at idle. Are there any engine problems which highly correlate to large positive cam adjustments like these?

Is this Camshaft Control Valve what you're talking about: electromagnetic camshaft timing valve, intended for vehicles with 1.8TSI 112kW/118kW (BZB, CDAA, CDAB), 2.0TSI 147kW (CCZA) engines

That's great, thanks! Are all the manuals on that site and are they free? Looks like the oil pump could be replaced with the engine in the car...

Just to be more specific, I've got low oil pressure on a 2011 Suberb 1.8 TSI and I'm trying to understand how the lubrication system works on this model...

OK, found a little info, but under the three options and going through all the submenus I'm not finding anything like an engine shop manual for the Suberb II...

I've tried all the links here and couldn't find any shop manuals. Since I live in the middle east and not Europe I don't think Erwin will work for me?

Forgot to put in the link for the video:

So I also ran across this post regarding the oil filter post being a problem. Not sure if it's relevant since it's a 1.8 TFSI and these engines seem to have different oil cooler / return designs depending which vehicle they're installed in. So here's an update. I found channel 159 which has the status of the two oil pressure sensors. For those who don't know, there are two switches mounted on the housing right below the oil filter, the low pressure switch and high pressure switch. LP switch is closed ( 1 ) when the oil pressure is above the low pressure threshold. HP switch is closed ( 1 ) when oil pressure is above the high pressure threshold. It doesn't look like the dealer's garage changed the oil filter after doing the engine flush, new filter isn't listed on the bill of goods and the filter doesn't look new, they just changed the oil to 15-w40. Also from a service a few months ago it says they need to order a new electric oil valve... Don't know why or if they ever did replace it. Not sure if the one in the link is the same as the one on my engine. Lot's of variations... So from a cold start at 20*C both switches close during starting. Then just the LP switch is closed till the oil temperature reaches about 78*C. Then the LP switch starts opening and closing. Around 82*C it's staying mostly open. If I slowly bring the RPMs above 1000 the LP switch closes. Once the temps get into the 90's I have to get above 3500 rpm to close the HP switch. Was able to trigger the P164B and the cam shaft phase errors. So there is definitely an oil pressure problem. Seems to be in it's early stages though and still moderate, like slightly below spec would be my guess although wouldn't know exactly unless I hook up a gauge. So the big question here is what is the root cause... I found this: 1.8t Oil Pressure Survival Guide: Oil Pressure Warning Light diagnosis and troubleshooting. It's an earlier version of the engine, but looks worth reading nonetheless. Going to read it now and see if it gives me any ideas. Also ran across this video which seems to blame the bad tensioner for low oil pressure since the oil pump chain is run off the same sproket as the timing chain. Lot's of directions to look at and need to find a methodical approach to this...

Well if the racheting mechanism failed than that's the source of the problem, not the oil pressure. However the cam phase adjustment is stable at 11.73 degrees, I watched it for awhile and didn't see it change. Also, idled the engine for 27 minutes before the first code popped up. I'd think if oil pressure was the root problem the warning wouldn't be intermittant and it would occur allot more than 48 times in a 1 hour 30 minutes drive.

Doesn't the chain tensioner in this model have a lock out that keeps it from retracting at all once it's extended to a certain point?

Is there a place I can check the pressure directly?

I just bought a second hand 2011 Suberb 1.8 TSI with 190K kilometers on the clock. It was a trade in and the dealer was selling it for half book so I knew to look for problems. I have some history, but in short the garage they took it to replaced the plugs, two coils, the lower oil pressure sensor, flushed the oil and filled with 15-w40. They wrote on their report that it might need a new engine. Basically, after doing my own checks I bought it cleared the codes and started driving home about 1 hour 30 minutes, half city half highway. During the drive I got the following codes: P164D Reduced Oil Pressure Switch: malfunction P0341 Camshaft Pos. Sensor Circ. : range/Performance Freeze frame data showed the first code 49 times and second one 68 times. Oil pressure warning on the dash went on and off intermittently mostly while in traffic. Had some other similar related codes in the freeze frames but only in the single digits. When I checked channel 93 it showed 93-3 Phase Position Bank 1 Intake at +11.73 degrees. I understand that spec is +/-5 degrees. That pretty much verifies to me that the chains are loose as all heck. I'm actually surprised the cam hasn't jumped and blown up the engine. Logically it seems pretty straight forward to me that the codes are related to the loose chain. Mostly I just want to verify my conclusions with people who are familiar with this engine and it's problems before and I start pulling the engine apart to put in the new tensioner and timing set.