zeka95

Skoda's 1.4 8v MPI engine doesn't have an oil connection to the thermostat housing. Maybe your piston rings are very worn, and the car is burning oil (noticed any kind of smoke from the exhaust?) If not that, I guess that your oil goes elsewhere, and you should be able to spot a leak.

Just to finish this thread. I did replace the brake booster with a second hand unit (same part number), and the noise is gone.

My manual says 70Nm and 30 degrees. And be sure to use a new nut

Is it a torx or hex head (my father's Fabia originally had hex bolts that held dust shield to the wheel bearing housing, but when we bought 2nd hand wheel bearing housings with the wheel bearings the dust shield was held with torx bolts and I struggled to get one out on each side)?

If some of you have a bad tensioner and you are not willing to pay 80 euros for a new complete one from INA there is a 15-20 euro solution. In most cases, only the roller fails due to age and there's no reason to buy a new complete one with the metal rod. You can buy INA 531 0760 10 roller/tensioner pulley and just replace the worn part, it's identical to the original roller. I wasn't able to unscrew the original screw (I believe that it was Torx T30, standard right thread), so I took an angle grinder and made a cut that's flush with the screw head (don't worry, you won't damage the metal sleeve insert, but be careful the paint on it cannot withstand pliers, you'll end up with chipped paint as I did). Once the screw head is cut you can unscrew the rest of it with your fingers since there's no tension. For a replacement screw I used M8x40 10.9 grade with stainless steel washer (don't remember the diameter, find one that covers the inner race fully). Additionally I added a lock nut on the other side to make it extra secure (if you don't want to add a lock nut you can use M8x35). Cheers!

Yeah, brake servo is the main suspect now, especially since the noise disappears when you fully press a brake pedal.

Hello, I recently bought a 2000 Fabia 1.4 MPI 50kW with AC for my father. The car was neglected for a long time by the previous owner, but fortunately, it is rust-free (everything else I can fix myself, potentially). . There are a couple of issues that are high on the list for fixing, and for me, the most annoying is this whistle that is present the whole time when the engine is running. While you keep the throttle almost at full, it goes away, but in any other case, the noise is there, and it's driving me nuts. Firstly, I thought that it's a vacuum hose that goes from the brake booster to the inlet manifold (the hose was already "fixed" by the previous owner with duct tape), but even after that replacement, the noise is still there. Any ideas what it could be? P.S. This was recorded with my phone that was 5 - 10cm away from the throttle pedal. I wanted to upload the whole clip, but it exceeds the file limit. Thanks! Fabia mk1.mp3

Hello guys, My father's Favorit is again in some problems, there's front suspension noise when going uphill or when you accelerate hard. Last year we changed all parts on both control arms (ball joints - 6U0 407 365, rear bushings - 115 422 291 and round bushings - 6U0 407 182). In the process I somehow swapped the control arms (left ended on the right side, and right one is now on the left) which shouldn't be a problem since that part (007 304 443) is interchangeable, plus I checked both of them for dents and none of them looked like it was dented or bent. After that change there was a sound from the struts I believe every time when you would accelerate hard or going uphill. I assumed that the springs were toast since those are 30+ years old, so I bought Kayaba RA1152 (specification says that those are 360mm and my Haynes manual specifies 350mm for front springs length) to go with Kayaba 9330045 shocks which were installed two years ago. This didn't improve anything, so we tried to play with the pinch bolt and adjust the height of the strut in the knuckle, but that also didn't help (best position is when you pull the knuckle as much as you can on the strut). Note: gap between the top of the wheel and the wheel arch is now almost doubled with Kayaba springs. We also tried to swap the struts in order to diagnose if one of them is faulty (once with old springs, and once with new ones), but still no luck. We even changed the driveshaft and CV joint on the right side (that side produced more noise) thinking that we might solve the problem. Just to mention that all parts on the struts are new. One more thing that I think it's important (and my father doesn't): when we were getting ready to change all control arm parts my father hit the curb with front right wheel and bent a wheel rim a bit on his way to the garage. Could that be the issue, that somehow differential or gearbox is damaged? (Gearbox oil was changed after that hit, and I couldn't find any metal shavings in the old oil) I attached the audio when going up hill, hope that it's clear enough (note: noise disappears once the suspension settles down) Any ides how to fix this issue? Skoda_Favorit_uphill_noise.mp3

I forgot to reply on this topic, but WD-40, open spanner and a hammer did the trick.

Well I posted that I want to find only a CV joint, I already have a driveshaft rod from a donor car. BTW, thank you for the offer, but I managed to find Spidan CV joint for around 40 euros (SKF would cost as much).

I was interested in 6U0 498 099. Thank you very much for your input. I have an option to buy Spidan CV joint but it's very expensive (around 60 euros). Since my father plans to drive this car only for a few more years I'll probably go for Metelli or SKF, Spidan would be an overkill.

Hello to all of you, My father's Favorit is again sticking its nose into my wallet. RHS driveshaft (the longer one) got bent somehow and I decided to replace both the driveshaft rod and the outer CV joint, inner one looks good. The only issue that I have now is to pick a CV joint, and the options are: AQ BGA GSP FAG LPR COMLINE METELLI MEYLE SKF Please advice which one do you recommend, thanks!

Hello to all of you I bought Kayaba 441 800 shocks which I plan to install in the upcoming days. They came with this "ring" fitted which should be part number 6U0512119. In order to put dust protection this needs to be removed. It's a very tight fit and it cannot be removed by hand. Does someone have experience with removing this? (if not, my idea was to turn the shock upside down and put a spanner onto it a give it a good smack) Thanks!

No.. It was number 11 ( bar was worn at the side on which handbrake cable connects : so on the left side of the car the right end of that bar was eaten a bit, and on the right side of the car left end was eaten ).. I discovered also that number 10 springs are missing (which have a role in self-adjusting system).. So, I'll have to disassemble the rear brakes again, and try to fit that spring in place..

Excellent, the car is road legal again.. I tried to find new inline brake limiters, but that just doesn't exist anymore... And I could only find a master cylinder that I already have (non pick-up).. So, my father and I removed all parts from brake limiters, then bled the system and the result was the same.. Right rear was still half a circle late... The next morning we changed the right rear cylinder (2nd time), bled the system and the result was again the same.. But the most important thing was that the rear right was holding as adjusted, and that's due to the new metal bar that connects brake shoes.. The old one was eaten a bit (side on which the handbrake cable attaches) which led to the failing of self-adjusting system ( that is my assumption ) ..

Thanks for the info.. I'll try to swap inline rear brake limiters tomorrow.. Today I did a little test to see the difference in braking between the rear wheels and it seems that from 35kph to a dead stop it's about half a circle (rear left blocks sooner than the right one)

@R_Blue Yeah, by lagging I mean that is acting late.. Both cylinders are of the same kind (AQ) and brake lines are good, not clogged... Is there some sort of manual that is detailed enough about procedure how to adjust the rear brakes properly ( Skoda system, not VW ), that the rear wheels can turn freely, and yet to brake well when it's needed... I will get new rear brake cylinders ( Fragokov - that's the best that I can get in my country ) and see if it will resolve the problem.. I tried Ken's method, but that didn't solve anything.. I have only a few days to sort that out, otherwise I'll have to pay 3rd MOT, and those aren't cheap at all.. Note that I don't have a good mechanic in my town ( mechanic from authorized Skoda service "fixed" the car after the first MOT fail, and yet it failed again ) , so I have to do this myself...

Hello guys Does anybody know if it's possible to put rear brakes from some other model or even different car make.. My father owns '90 Favorit, and it failed MOT 3 times because of the rear brakes : 1st handbrake cable was done on one side (both sides replaced after that) 2nd difference in the brake force on the rears was over 30% ( right rear brake cylinder replaced (was leaking a bit), brake shoes replaced on both ends, and the system bled + rear drums machined ) 3rd rear right is "lagging" when braking So it seams the the self adjusting system (if it's called that, 2 metal pieces with teeth) is not holding like it should.. I saw that Felicia/Fabia ( and maybe even Favorit from '93) have much better self adjusting system, and I'm curious if that would work.. I would probably need new brake shoe holders, handbrake cables and all other parts, but the main question : can it be done

Pardon me for not being precise It's nice and tight now.. Anyway, I have the manual now, so thanks to all of you..

I never asked to upload the file here.. You can always send a password protected zip file via email, or use some of the free upload sites.. Well, for now, I need just a value for the 18mm screw on the lower engine holder (so-called "telephone") ... On some Czech forum I found that it was 30 Nm + 1/4 turn, but I want to be sure.. I tend to overtight, that's why I want to do everything by the book

Hello, Can someone send me this manual.. I need it for some screw torque values... Thanks