CageyH

When the car would not start initially, it was 12.36V at the battery terminals. After starting it with the booster pack, and a 15 minute drive, it went up to 12.88V. My colleague had tried to start the car several times during a two week period, hence the battery level being a bit low. This is why I have asked her to try and start the car, and measure the battery voltage if it does not start, as I went to see if the battery is faulty.

I have left my colleague a multimeter to measure the battery voltage, and the booster pack. I measured the voltage without the engine cranking and it was at 12.36. It dropped just below 12V on cranking. I should have more info on Monday. The battery was replaced 2 years ago by her local garage. If someone can point me in the direction of gaining access to the relay panel, that would be great. The car is a 2007 1.4TDi 80BHP, if that helps.

Dragging this thread back up. My colleague who has a problem with her 1.6TDi Roomster also has a 1.4TDi that does not start for her. I went round to have a look. She tried to start it. The motor turns over, but will not start on just battery power. No codes were found in the ECU. I popped my Noco GB50 booster pack on the battery terminals, and it immediately fired into life. I removed the booster pack, the car starts fine. My thoughts are to replace the Fuel pump/ECU relay. Do you think that is a good idea? If so, where do I find it on an early Roomster?

Ou of interest, would an injector failure show up on a diagnostics scan? I have a colleague at work who owns a Roomster 1.6Tdi, and the engine cut out, and will no longer start. The garage she took it to says it is a mechanical issue, and want to change all 4 injectors, but surely there should be some kind of fault code? I was wondering if it could be the in-tank fuel pump?

The Cinturato P7 have lasted 20k miles. I have a few more thousand left in them, but I will be changing them before winter comes.

Another question. If I went for Bridgestone Turanza 6 due to the lower rolling resistance, realistically what percentage fuel economy would they deliver compared to a higher rolling resistance tyre? I have found an online calculator that suggests that changing just two tyres will save me £10 a year. It hardly seems worth it to me. The EU tyre calculator suggest there is a potential 1% saving by going from a Group C to Group B tyre. Do real world experiences match the predictions? I am only changing 2 tyres this time around, I think I am just going to go for one of the Premium tyres in the daft size fitted to my car.

That is a very valid point, well presented. Thanks.

Thanks. The Premium Contact 6, rather than the 7? Any reason I have missed to not buy the 7?

Thanks for the response. Pirelli Cinturato P7 currently fitted. I have had a look today, and there really not many “Eco” tyres in this size. Lowest rolling resistance seems to be the Bridgestone Turanzo 6, but best life seems to be the Michelin Pilot Sport 5. To be honest, any of the “premium” brands will probably be absolutely fine. I don’t use this car for sporty driving. It is a family barge and commuting use only.

In my IV, I have averaged 2.8l/100km over the last 1200km. And before that, 2.3l/100km for 4650 km.

I am looking for a good summer tiring tyre to fit to my Superb IV in 235/40/R19. I am not after anything of a soft compound/sport orientated type of tyre. Priority is Safety, comfort and fuel economy. Any experience of the Bridgestone Turanza? I see the 6 has come out with a claim of better tyre life? Currently running Cinturato P7.

Re-fixing the parking sensors inthe front bumper. My scanner is out on loan, but do I need a VAG specific scanner for the car? I will need to drop the bumper off again to check the wiring continuity. The pins looked ok to me.

My front 360 camera has stopped working. I have checked the connections and they seem OK. I have reset the infotainment system and nothing has changed. Anything else I should check before I change the camera? If I need a new Camera, where can I find the part number?

And today I dropped the bumper off again to try and work out why the front “360 vision” camera is not working, and I could not find out why.

So bumper back off. Undertray fitted, but my front grille camera is now not working. I wish I had not started this job....

Thanks for the response. I Hope I don’t have to remove the bumper to fit it properly? Is it possible to fit it with the bumper in place?

My 2020 Superb IV has a two piece under tray going from the front bumper to the engine tray. This became detached as I fitted my front bumper back on the car. It is a two piece design. I have been struggling to get it fitted properly. How is it supposed to be fitted? I mean what is the process of installation. I can’t seem to get it in place properly to attach the 4 screws that hold it in place.

Dropped the front bumper off to fix a leak in the washer bottle, and re-attach the outer parking sensors to the bumper.

You can bypass the app, by pressing one of the buttons next to the cable, just after the cable is plugged in. Press the one without the clock.

Thanks for the feedback. I shall let the garage resolve the problem.

They have already been told, but I need to go through the hassle of booking it back in, and being without the car. Thoughts were that if I could pop the fog lights out, and get to the sensors, then it would be much less hassle.

Do I need to remove the front bumper for access to the parking sensors? My outer sensors seem to be coming unstuck and are no longer flush after a bumper replacement. I am just weighing up if I do the job myself, or take it back to the garage that fitted the bumper. Is there any access to the zone by removing the front fog lights?

I am looking at changing my phone soon, as it has battery issues. I am contemplating going back to Apple for use in the car. The car is a MY20 Superb IV. It has a AA wireless dongle fitted. Current phone is a Galaxy S9, but I am looking at a Galaxy S22 or iPhone 12/13 - the cheaper,m the better as long as Waze etc starts quickly. AA wireless through the dongle can seem slow to start, but CarPlay seems quicker with my wife’s phone. Do CarPlay users also get hot batteries on their phones when using GPS and streaming music?

10cm seems too short. 20cm seems too long. I have ordered a 15cm cable that should be ok.

What is the optimum length cable? Will a 10cm cable work well, or is it too short?