Pailbirder

Thanks - I'll remember this, if any of the wires break - especially about the work hardening. I was thinking of soldering the wires together and shrink sleeving over the top. If it's a single wire that goes that's what I'll do. I guess I'll have a little practice first - in the privacy of the shed!!

Most impresses with the plastic retainer at the end of each boot. As you say, peel the rubber away, freeing the boot. The plastic clips remain behind. They have to be wrinkled out of the holes. You have to fit the plastic back into the ends of the boot. AFTER the repair is done, Simplicity myself to push them back into the body work holes - until you hear a CLICK. I used 8mm dia glued shrink sleeve to join the washers pipe together. I cut 25mm of it to affect the repair. It was a pain keeping the 2 ends of the pipe together while applying the heat. I put a (doubled) layer of foil loosely around the pipe, to direct the heat round the back of the pipe. Seems to be ok so far

Thanks for all the brilliant advice. I have a 2015 Roomster. The alarm going off, boot space and dashboard 'door' light flickering, no spray on rear screen. I managed to remove the trim panels (I modified the end of a cheese knife to get in under the spring clips). The sound insulation was soaked with washer fluid. I disconnected the pipe connector and the electrical block (behind the top panel) - which was soaked. Dried everything out and could see tracking marks on both halves of the block. Delicately scraped the residue away to get back to clean plastic. Reconnect the block and all ok. The washer pipe - how do I fix that? As someone mentioned, the pipe forms part of the wiring loom and is bound together with the wires. I've not tried to remove the flexible boot ends from either the tailgate or the car body. It looks as if it has been stuck down! I was going to attempt to free the car side of the flexible boot. Release the electrical block and pull some loom/pipe up from the car. Cut the pipe and install an 'IN LINE connector! to a new pipe . Use electrical ratchet ties to secures. Push the repair joint back into the car body. Do the same for the other end of the flexible boot, not sure how much 'free play' I can achieve to pull the loom/pipe up, but hope that releasing some of the cable clips within the tailgate will suffice. a) will in line pipe connectors work? b) will ratchet ties be good enough to secure? c) what pipe should I use - seeing it's going to be 'flexing' within the flexible boot? d) what do I use to seal the flexible boot back to the metal - if indeed it is 'stuck' down? So many questions - sorry.