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ChrisTids

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    Shepshed, Leicestershire

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    Skoda Roomster SE TSI, MG TF 135
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  1. Part number is DMK770005
  2. I would start with checking that the alternator is working correctly and isn't producing low voltage or high voltage (should be around 14.6V with the engine running).
  3. The housing is number 7 in the illustration, it is at the back of the engine (gearbox end) I would connect an OBD scanner that can do live data to see what temperature is being measured by the temperature sensor.
  4. It begs the question why the belts have been removed in the first place, and did it get an MoT in that state? Not sure I would trust universal belts from eBay.
  5. Something like this will do: https://www.toolstation.com/minotaur-ratchet-crimping-tool/p46714
  6. The water pump is at the other end of the engine, could possibly be the thermostat.
  7. I would also start by checking for broken wires between the car body and the hatchback https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497263-sencom-tailgate-loom-repair/
  8. It could be a sign of damaged wire(s) between the tailgate and the main body of the car, I would carefully pull off the rubber boot from the body and check for damage.It could be a sign of damaged wire(s) between the tailgate and the main body of the car, I would carefully pull off the rubber boot from the body and check for damage.
  9. I think by 2015 they had moved back to using a belt instead of a chain.
  10. I had the same issue with my previous Rooster, I could get the door to open by sitting in the car and locking it using the button on the centre console, then pressing the console button at the same time giving the door handle a quick pull – often it would take a few goes to get the timing right and of course may not be able to work for you. If you buy a new lock be careful as a lot of suppliers seem to think the Fabia look is the same as the Roomster lock and it isn’t quite the same. I ended up importing one from Slovakia for around €120 as opposed to the £200+ a local dealer wanted just for the part.
  11. It can be the door locks or just not enough slack in the cables in the belows between the body and the door so the wires snap over time. Our second Roomster seems to have less issues with the actual locks but it did snap all the wires to the rear hatch.
  12. We bought our first Roomster in 2014, a 1.4 TDI Roomster 3 with 110K miles on the clock> The Roomster was never very highly specified but the 3 had things like a glass roof etc. Apart from some typical VAG electrical issues in the drivers side and passenger doors it cost very little to run and clocked up 160K miles until it was written off almost 2 years ago, it was a big shunt and we walked away from it thanks to the basic strength of the bodyshell. The replacement is a 2011 Roomster SE petrol TSI. The trim levels changed when the Roomster had a slight facelift in 2010/11 so the SE isn’t at quite the same level of trim as the 3, at the time I would have liked a SE + as this has trim levels more akin to the 3 but nothing was available at the time. Having said that we happily drove around France in the heat of last summer clocking up 1500 trouble free miles. The only bits of buying advice that I can give apart from checking that all the electrical items are working including the door locks is that the rear brake callipers start to not work properly, if this is the case don’t mess about with them and just replace the units. Also check for rust around the rear number plate lights, not an issue on our first but has been an issue on our second.
  13. When our boot failed to unlock I don’t remember of the boot light failed at the same time although it does work now, I guess it may depend on the wires that have been damaged. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497263-sencom-tailgate-loom-repair/?tab=comments#comment-5579133
  14. I bought a set of pads for my 2008 TDI and was supplied with the type in the link above (providing the photo is correct) and they were incorrect. It is best to check if the pads fitted to the car have the spring slips on the back. I am not sure if I would trust a £20 shock but that is up to you. If the shocks have never been touched, I would be tempted with new hardware and bushes, there is nothing worse than finding in the middle of the job that something is too far gone to reuse.
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