SimonDMZ

Have the same issue with my boot lights - no downlights nor torch and Maxidot dash display not registering boot up. Car locks within minutes and alarm activates. Have followed continuity steps here using Wokwon current flow diagram and get earth rail at PIN 1 of Rear lid light (W51) but no positive at PIN 2. Indicates to me that boot lock micro switch is working otherwise there would be no earth continuity so something going on further up the chain wherever connector T5v terminates. Can anyone post the page of the wiring diagram that Track 363 points to? Would like to find out which control unit T5 plugs into and its location. Hopefully that page has a diagram showing torch light connections which are also missing off the above schematic. And would anyone know if there is a sense wire that triggers the boot open Maxidot or is that triggered off the same circuit once it's active ? I initially thought fuse but like everyone else here I can't find a reference for a fuse for these boot lights. Would be grateful for any help. Many thanks.

By the time I read the steps in Diggiboy's post the exploded diagram under davidj241's profile (from 2012) had disappeared so I thought I would add an image of the tailgate trim and add further steps to assist removal. I needed to replace the tailgate lock (damp had corroded and caused one of the microswitch contacts to snap resulting in no boot lights; torch not lighting up; no open boot indicator on MaxiDot; and alarm triggering when opening just the boot). Also had an intermittent rear wiper motor that needed replacing. Boot light issue https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/454434-boot-light-estate/ Rear wiper replacing https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/361350-rear-wiper-motor-removal-how-to/ Removing tailgate trim on Skoda Superb Mk2 LK Estate The tailgate is fixed by one screw in the centre of the rubber pull strap. That's it - after that it's all held by clips and you will need strong plastic trim tools to leverage the trim off. As I was unable to prise the trim off from the area around the wiper I too started at the lock end. And brute force finally got the trim off the wiper end. It was then that I noticed that the wiper end of the trim had lips on the corners of the folded back part that tucked into the plastic guides on the tailgate - left and right by the boot strops. This part of the trim should really have been prised off first as they lock the top in position with a post that goes into the tube on the plastic guides (see phots below) Thanks for the tip about aligning the clips to the butt end of their relevant mounting slots and the definite necessity of having an assistant with the use of a torch to check all clip locations were aligned to the slots - the trim went back on without a hassle.

Thanks Wino - I did have the car checked with a VCDS after the battery replacement (ECU needed to be reset to new battery). No errors came up. Looks dry under the passenger seat (as per above photo). I was thinking of pulling the amp connector and re-inserting it but worried if it might cause the headend to need reprogramming. But come to think of it - if cutting the power doesn't cause an issue, reseating the connector shouldn't!

Thanks Del8oy Regarding locking the doors - my new fully charged new battery was flat when I returned a couple of weeks after replacing the original Varta battery. And it had been locked all the time. So whatever in the amplifier circuit is causing the drain did not go to sleep when the doors were locked. Just to be sure I charged the battery again and measured it over a four day period while it was parked up and the voltage steadily dropped by the end of each day. When it reached 12.0v I decided to diagnose (as well as having the battery checked by a garage with a Bosch BAT131 tester). Finally I had the car diagnosed by the Skoda dealer and they confirmed it was the amplifier circuit causing the issue. I did consider disconnecting the TV tuner but because the current drain stopped when the F18 fuse was removed and the TV worked on the Columbus headend with the fuse out I presumed it was not the TV tuner circuit causing the issue, In your case did pulling the F18 fuse stop the current drain?

Windows; bonnet and doors all closed. Unlocked. Connection made using low loss (ex jump start) cable by looping the battery through a multimeter (10A setting) - from the negative battery terminal (battery negative to meter common; meter positive to now disconnected Skoda negative battery connector) (see below). Even after three hours current drain is 192mA

So it is - many thanks. Noted that it is a Panasonic and not a Harmon system which I thought it was . Thanks also for the clue about the sleep timer. In fact the current drain doesn't stop after even three hours. So rather than the amp (a rather expensive component at @ $200 on the open market) maybe something else controls the sleep interval and is duff? Capacitor? I can't imagine it is the Columbus head end because that runs fine without the fuse in place. So I wonder if there is a way to simulate the sleep period as a check rather than knocking the whole circuit out with pulling the fuse?? Cheers!

Had the very same thing happen to me a while back - it was a rear brake sensor gone. Had it replaced (the part cost £45) and lights all went out (after a run round the block). Take a look at this which pointed me in that direction (thanks to Superb170)

Thanks for all the posts which helped me to track down the leak that is flattening a new battery when parked over a couple of weeks! I am hoping someone may be able to assist me pin down the component draining the battery of 0.2 amps on the Amplifier circuit? Is there more than one device on this circuit or just the Harmon (Kardon 10 speaker) amp? With doors & bonnet closed I am leaching 197mA. Take out the F18 fuse from the Engine compartment box and it drops to 17mA. Garage wants to charge a couple of hours to track it down from this point so they can decide what's required to fix it and the cost! Columbus headend showing TV and DAB/FM channels but no sound with fuse removed. And if it's the amp that's causing the drain - where's it located in the car? Any help much appreciated.